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Food Timeline FAQs: food history research tips



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General tips & basic strategies
What is the history of your favorite food? That depends upon the food and how deep you want to dig. Take tiramasu. This dish was "created" in the late 20th century. You could find a few magazines articles confirming period popularity/origination and stop there. Or? You could go the next level and research the recipe based on composition. You would soon discover this dish was based on Victorian-era moulded creams which were based on Colonial-era tipsy cakes which were inspired by Renaissance-era trifles.

EVOLUTION VS. INVENTION
Very few (if any) foods are invented. Most are contemporary twists on traditional themes. Louis Diat's famous Vichysoisse was a childhood favorite. Today's grilled cheese sandwich is connected to ancient cooks who melted cheese on bread. 1950s meatloaf is connected to ground cooked meat products promoted at the turn of the 20th century, which are, in turn related to ancient Roman minces. Need more? Corn dogs and weiner schnitzel. French fries and Medieval fritters. New York gyros and Middle Eastern doner kebabs. Hershey's Kisses and ancient Incan cocoa.

Where to begin?
Check food history encyclopedias and dictionaries. Standard sources
noted here. Cuisine/period cookbooks and history sources may also be helpful.

Advanced techniques
One of the most challenging aspects of recipe research is identifying common themes and making connections. A survey of cookbooks through time often reveals similar recipes with different names. A careful inspection of ingredients and cooking instruction confirms or refutes culinary lineage. To complicate matters, variant spellings often appear in older texts. Of course, the first "real" appearance of any recipe often predates the first occurance of recorded in print by several years.

1. Examine old cookbooks.
Work your way back from the current recipe. Look for similarities in ingredient and method. BEWARE. Recipes change names.

2. Research the history of each ingredient.
Old world or new? Rare commodity or common ingredient? Apple pie is an American icon, but apples aren't native to our country. Tomato sauce is the cornerstone of many popular Italian dishes, but these fruits (as they are botanically classed) weren't known to Europe until the 16th century. West African Lemony Chicken Okra Soup. Some foods (rice, beans, pork, bread, soup) are nearly ubiquitious. These recipes evolved according to ingredient availability, technological advancement, and local taste.

PRODUCT HISTORIES
If the product is still being made, start with the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office database. This will give date of first introduction, original manufacturer and (usually) current trademark holder. Corporate "biographies," article databases, product histories, and company Web sites often provide details on the product's introduction, market strategy, consumer trends, variations (the iterations of Oreos), packaging, and pricing. Anniversary articles (100th anniversary of Jell-0 celebrated in 1997) often provide excellent overviews.

"LOST RECIPES"
Family favorites can sometimes be recovered. It is very helpful if you have some idea of recipe origination: cookbook, magazine article, newspaper clipping, radio/television show, "back of the box," contest winner? Where did the cook usually get her recipes? Where and when (1930s Quebec) is important for tracking local fare. The cook's ethnic heritage (Polish Jew, French Canadian, West African) is crucial for locating "grandmother's traditional" recipes. Sources: old cookbooks, recipe exchanges, period media.

RESTAURANT DISHES
Signature recipes from famous restaurants fall into three categories:

1. Authentic
Selected signature recipes released by the restaurant and/or copyright owners. These are found restaurant cookbooks, proprietior's/head chef's memoirs, and granted publication by heirs to restaurant "biographers" and journalists. Example? Brennan's Bananas Foster.
2. KopyKat
Recreations based on memory. Some of these can be pretty accurate, depending upon the culinary finesse of the recreator. These recipes circulate freely on the Internet and are easy to find. In Chasen's case it's Liz Taylor's favorite chili. Some CopyKat recipe collections are on the Internet. Others are printed in books.
3. Unavailable. Period. End of story.
Many beloved Horn & Hardart recipes fall into this category. Also included in this category: Kentucky Derby Pie, Colonel Sander's Kentucky Fried Chicken, and the original (pre U-Bet) chocolate sauce used for Brooklyn egg creams.

TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Researching the history of a specific cuisine, recipe, food, or product often requires using a variety of sources to develop a complete and accurate picture. Depending upon the question, the answer may require:

Sometimes the answer to a food history question is straightforward and easy to confirm (the ingredients of the original Dagwood sandwich). Other times the answer is a complicated puzzle (Club sandwiches) with conflicting pieces. And then? There are questions for which there are no satisfactory answers (Who named the "monkey dish?").There are times when the best one can do is assemble as much information as possible and make educated guesses based on supporting historical evidence. Croissants, ice cream cones, pink lemonade...culinary lore abounds.

In short, food history is not a "piece of cake."

Need to construct a more detailed/updated new food product timeline?
There are several sources you can use to construct your own food product timeline. Sources vary according to your definition of "food invention" (brand new product, or variation of extant line (mini oreos) and purpose of your project. Yes, this is research! If you need new USA commercial food products, year-by-hear we suggest you check:

If you're looking for restaurant food innovations & trends, The National Restaurant Organization is your best bet for data. 2009 trendshere.

I have an old cook book without a cover or title page, is there a way to identify it?
If your cook book has no standard identifying standard marks (title page, publishers marking/imprint, author, location) you might still be able to identify it. We find books like this from time to time. Physical description notes in catalogs of major collections (national libraries, university libraries, special collections housed in archives and museums) are gold.

  1. Take a physical inventory: number of pages (including any frontispiece material, last numbered page) and actual size (height, width, depth). Include any blank pages bound in the volume, noting where they appear.
  2. Check the physical printing/paper used. The older the book, the more "pourous" the paper. Ink itself may appear imprinted deeply. Typeface offers clues, as well as typographic conventions (18th c. sometimes adds marks at the bottom of right-hand page to indicate recipe is continued on the next page). As a general rule, the older the book, the better the quality paper & more likely it is to be in excellent readable shape.
  3. Illustrations? If so, where & of what?
  4. Arrangement: index in front or back? How are the recipes grouped? Is there an introduction? Advertisements included? Special section devoted to invalid, Lenten, medicinal, food preservation recipes?
  5. Recipes: Title, ingredients, method and presentation offer the best clues for approximate dating. Subtle nuances of method for popular recipes (macaroons, sally lunn, &c.) are key for tracing evolution & ultimately dating the item.
If your book is completely manuscript (hand written) then recipes are your best clues. Also...where/when was the item purchased. Can you trace to possible original owner (either documented or by inference)?

Cook books used in Early America were published in Europe and major urban American centers: New York., Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore. Recipes in those days were often copied verbatim from one author to another (forget trademark infringement!). Please note: many popular cook books through time offer several editions, revisions, publishers, and authors. We would be happy to help you determine an approximate date/identify your cookbook if you are willing to share information outlined above. It would also help if you could scan a few sample pages with the popular recipes. Who knows? We might be able to match it up!

How much is my old cook book worth?
The Food Timeline DOES NOT provide valuing services. Those services are provided by professional
antiquarian booksellers, licensed appraisers, and auction houses. Free online sources for approximate values are used booksellers (Alibris, AbeBooks, UsedBookCentral, etc.) and EBay. Antique Trader's Collectible Cookbooks Price Guide/Patricia Edwards & Peter Peckham, provides price ranges for selected popular American books. Used/old book stores often have sections devoted to cookooks; check to see what the "going" retail rate is. Check item carefully for year published and edition.

Please note: the value of old cook books, like anything else, is based on what buyers are willing to pay. Most mass produced cookbooks from the 20th century have low value on the open market. Of course, there are exceptions. Autographed copies, first editions, limited or special editions, are generally worth more than subsequent counterparts. Pre-20th century cookbooks generally have more value because they are harder to find.

In all cases, condition of the item plays a key role in determing value. Original binding, covers, dust jackets, no missing pages, no writing (unless the owner was famous), no stains or obvious wear.

Whether you're selling or buying, it pays to do your homework!

Who designates "national" food days?
"National" days (food or otherwise) are declared by one of three sources:
1. Federal government (in the USA this means the President signs an Executive Order (EO)designating a day, week, month dedicated to a particular topic. There is no limit to the number of EO in any given month. Topics are selected by legislators and organizations who want to promote awareness (School Lunch Month) or economic activity (a food designation generally promotes folks engaged in agriculture, transportation, retail and/or foodservice). EOs can be issued annually (Thanksgiving Proclamation) or one time.
EO online.
2. Industry associations declare national days to promote products. Example: National Sandwich Day
3. Companies declare national days to promote their products.

Tools for research:
1. Chase's Calendar of Annual Events (found in many public libraries, but it is a challenge to find a library with a backrun). Entries are arranged by day, indexed by title and subject. Entries provide information regarding the originator of the day. Use Chases to track first and last instance of a particular day. This is interesting and detailed research because some "national" days actually change date and sponsor.
2. Historic newspapers (National and local) are great sources for announcements and details, especially regarding ad campaigns and/or contests. Your local librarian can help you access.
3. If you already know who sponsors the days on your list, contact them directly. Most have media kits and are happy to share.

How do I become a food historian?
Food historian is a niched career field. That's why you won't find information on what we do and where we work using standard career reference sources. While some schools (universities/culinary arts schools) offer classes in food history studies, there is no certification or specific degree for this career. Many practictioners (but not all) have college/advanced degrees. These degrees center on history, anthropology, women's studies, English literature, sociology and library science. We are drawn to food history for different reasons. In some cases, food history "chose" us. Please note: many professional food historians have full-time "day" jobs to pay the bills.

Where do food historians work?

Culinary history organizations meet in some cities. They offer educational programs, topical lectures and excellent networking opportunities. Some food historians join the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). This organization offers a food history roundtable. It also manages the Culinary Trust, a non-profit organization devoted to preserving our culinary treasures and promoting scholarly research projects.

What's the difference between a food historian and a culinary historian? The latter is also a professionally trained chef. The first group can study it; the second group can actually cook it. More or less.


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SERVICE NOTES

Who is Lynne Olver?
A food historian with a masters in library science. Since March 1999, Ms. Olver has welcomed 28.3 million readers and answered 23.5 thousand questions. Ms. Olver works regularly with students, teachers, media, culinary professionals, cook book authors/editors,living history museums, and the general public worldwide providing original content, background material, fact checking services, and document delivery. She is regularly tapped by journalists writing for the Wall Street Journal, New York Times, America's Test Kitchens, Cooks Illustrated, FoodTV, and Saveur. The Food Timeline was selected by Saveur as one of the top 100 sites (2004). Details on the FT's origin and evolution chronicled by
Culinary Types/TW Barritt. Lynne Olver's LinkedIn profile.

Note: Ms. Olver is not a chef. Culinary training (if you call it that!) was a 4 year stint as a short order cook in college. She is an intuitive cook who views recipes as starting points for personal inspiration. Her dishes have no recipes, no names. Some work out better than others. None of them can be replicated. If we're lucky, life gives us a few delicious chances to experiment. When the results taste good, huzzah!


About these notes: Food history can be a complicated topic. These notes are not meant to be a comprehensive treatment of the subject, but a summary of salient points supported with culinary evidence. If you need more information we suggest you start by asking your librarian to help you find the books and articles cited in these notes. If you need assistance locating additional information on a particular food or recipe ask!

About this site, about culinary research & about copyright.


http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodfaqa.html
© Lynne Olver 2000
30 March 2012