|
|
 Have questions? Ask!
|
The question "Which came first: beer or wine?" does not have a definitive answer. Food historians tell us progenitors of these items likely happened by "accident" long before mankind began producing them. Both are predicated on stable, stationary civilizations. The Archaeological evidence confirms wine and beer were regularly consumed by the Neolithic period. While none of our historians state outright one predates the other, brewing may present some older evidence.
About the origin of alcoholic beverages
"Like so many discoveries, the creating of most fermented liquors probably came about by accident. As certain types of sweet fruit, and also honey, will ferment on
their own accord, it was inevitable that any attempts to collect such fermentable substances in containers would on more than one occasion encourage alcohol
formation...Certainly the fermented drinks of the Old and New Worlds represent independent discoveries, and it could well be that the development of rice
beverages in eastern Asia was quite unconnected with that of the varied cereal and wine concoctions in the European area."
---Food in Antiquity: A Survey of the Diet of Early Peoples, Don Brothwell and Patricia Brothwell, expanded edition [Johns Hopkins University Press:Baltimore MD] 1998 (p. 164-165)
Beer
"No one has yet managed to date the origins of beer with any precision, and it is probably an impossible task. Indeed, there are scholars who have theorized that a
taste for ale prompted the beginning of agriculture, in which case humans have been brewing for some 10,000 years...Most archaeological evidence, however,
suggests that fermentation was being used in one manner or another by around 4000 to 3500 B.C. Some of this evidence--from an ancient Mesopotamian trading
outpost called Godin Tepe in present-day Iran--indicates that barley was being fermented at that location around 3500 B.C....We know that not much later the
Sumerians were...making beer...At approximately the same time, people of the ancient Nubian culture to the south of Egypt were also fermenting a crude, ale-like
beverage known as bousa."
"The brewing of beer may well have occurred soon after the production of cereal crops, and no doubt for a long time beer was home-produced and in the hands of
the housewives responsible for preparing the 'gruel' or bread. Malting the grain is the first step in beer-brewing, but malting--that is, allowing the grains to germinate
--was initially carried out to make the grains more palatable. After malting, besides being mixed into a nourishing gruel, the grains could also be dried, milled and
baked into a more easily preserved kind of bread. Thus, the first production of beer may be reasonably considered as an accidental discovery resulting from the
malting of grain for other purposes. When cereals came to be more often baked into bread and less often turned into gruel, malting was not so necessary and
became part of the brewer's trade only. By the third millennium BC, Mesopotamia was already well versed in beer-brewing and old Sumerian texts mention eight
barley beers, eight emmer beers and three mixed beers. Aromatic plants were added to the beer to improve the flavour and to assist in its preservation, and extra
honey, cereals and malt gave varying added strengths. Up to the millennium, the grains were de-husked, but husked grains then began to be brewed and beer was
drunk through the drinking-tubes to be seen in several relief carvings...Brewing followed much the same pattern in Egypt, where too it originally went hand in hand
with baking...As early as the Pyramid Age five kinds of beer were noted...Indeed, it is considered that the ancient brewers probably made stronger beer than we
now know, owing to the wild yeast which caused the fermentation that produced a greater alcohol content...Beer, to the Greeks and Romans, was a barbarian
drink...The North European peoples of those days such as the Celts and the Germans did not yet know the wine-grape and the art of viticulture, so after the
introduction of cereal agriculture their drink remained beer for a very long time."
"...much of the artistic evidence of the early days of brewing in the Near East, the commencement of which we believe to be around 8,000 years ago, suggests a
strong link with bread-making. This relationship seems to have been perpetuated by the time that the ancient Egyptians started to brew..."
Wine
"The earliest archaeological evidence indicating wine that might have been made from domesticated vines comes from a pottery jar, dated between 7400 and 7000
years ago, which was found at the Neolithic site of Hajji Firuz in the northern Zagros Mountains."
"Whilst the Greeks on the whole are responsible for initiating specialized viticulture which ultimately spread throughout the Mediterranean and into France and
Germany, the vine is indigenous to Asia Minor and it was probably among the people of that area that viticulture had its true beginnings. We know from their texts
that the Hittites were enthusiastic vine-growers and wine-producers. Viticulture was known in Mesopotamia as early as the third millennium BC, and was probably
well under way in Egypt even before dynastic times. Although the vine is not indigenous there, pictorial representations appear in tombs of the earliest dynasties and
the Pyramid Texts indicate at least six varieties. All large gardens grew grapes along with dates and figs, but the wine still had to be imported from Syria and
Palestine, where viticulture was of primary importance. So wine remained in Egypt a drink for the rich, with beer and water for the peasants, until the arrival of the
Greeks in the Hellenistic period. Mesopotamia too, whilst producing wind from a very early date, did not make sufficient for the masses...There is some dispute
about the antiquity of wine-drinking in Crete and the Aegean, and it has been postulated that beer was probably drunk prior to wine...Wine-production in Italy is
thought to have been initially introduced by the Etruscans."
"Unlike brewing, wine-making is a natural process which does not strictly require any human intervention--in fact, apes Often seek out fermenting fruits. To make
wine, all that is needed is for the juice of a ripe grape to come into contact with airborne yeast. Wine-making, then, was not 'invented' by man: humanity's role is a
more modest one, to refine and guide...From prehistoric times onwards, wine could be made wherever people and grapes coincided. Yet there is little doubt that,
of all the vitis species, vitis vinifera is the most suitable for wine. Vitis vinefera is believed to have originated south of the Black Sea in Transcaucasia, now the
disputed territories of Georgia and Armenia, since this is the area that had the greatest variability of human population at the time and was therefore where humans
were most likely to have started using it...Archaeologists assume that by 7000 BC previously nomadic farmers in the Near East had taken up grain-farming and
stock breeding. Domesticating fruit trees involves a different kind of existence. The first wild fruits to be domesticated in the Near East were the fig, the date, the
olive and the vine...Deliberate cultivation of fruit trees such as the vine therefore presupposes a fully sedentary way of life and a complete social and economic
system, with one generation leaving property to the next. This stage was probably reached in the 4th millennium BC or possibly the 5th...However, cultivation of
Vitis vinifera is not necessarily the a same thing as wine-making...Archaeologists have found remains of presses dating from the Bronze Age (i.e. c. 3000 to 1050
B.C.). Finds of empty grape skins together with pips and stalks at Myrtos, Crete, from the early Minoan period (i.e. c. 3000BC) are proof of wine-making as
opposed to the production of table grapes. That the earliest piece of evidence is not a grape skin or a stalk or a pip at all; it is a wine stain. In the early 1970s a
Persian amphora dating from 3500BC was found at Godin Tepe, Iran. Recent chemical analysis of the red stain inside has shown that it contains both tannins and
tartaric acid, suggesting that the amphora must have had wine in it."
Origins and Ancient History of Wine/University of Pennsylvania
Hot, non-alcoholic
"The slave labor system and the expansion of international trade that brought sugar, molasses, and rum into prominence also led to the rise of three new
nonalcoholic drinks: chocolate, tea, and coffee. "Groceries" was the term used in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries for newly imported consumable
commodities from distant places."
"...chocolate was a popular drink for all ages. The beverage was simple to prepare for the imported cocoa beans were merely ground and then brewed for the
desired thickness with water or milk. As Americans moved further into the eighteenth century, chocolate and coffeehouses became popular in seaport towns such as
Boston, New York, and Phildelphia...The taste of coffees, teas, and chocolates was unpredictable at best. Today's beverages are a smooth blend of leaves or
beans of many types. However, in colonial times, a ship's carge usually included not a mixture of several strong and mild beans, but only the products of a single
plantation. Past experiences with the crop of a particular producer were of little value in judging later shipments, for changing climatic and soil conditions altered the
tastes of a particular grower's crop from year to year...When coffee was not available or was beyond the means of the poor farmer, parched rye, chestnuts, or
grape sedds were substituted for coffee beans and brewed into hot drinks...Tea substitutes were also popular, particularly on the frontier where imported
merchandise was difficult to purchase. Sassafras tea was considered particularly pleasing..."
What did patriots drink instead of tea after the famous Boston party?
"Colonial tea addicts were sorely tested when the nationwide tea strike
began about ten years before the Revolutionary War. Supporters of the boycott against British tea published numerous testimonials by patriotic doctors who
claimed that tea-drinking not only shortened the life of a drinker, but weaked his spleen and stomach...High prices as well as patriotism discouraged many from
drinking tea...Rhubarb, goldenrod, strawberry, and blackberry leaves were also collected for brewing into tea during the long show of solidarity against the British.
The later revolution saw a great decreas in the amount of American tea-drinking, and in the first years of the new republic, coffee became the overwhelming favorite
drink. Though never to regain its prewar popualrity as a general beverage, tea remained popular as a medicinal home remedy for various illnesses, a turnabout from
the boycott claims to the opposit effect."
"The young ladies of Boston signed a pledge, 'We the daughters of those patriots who have, and do now appear for the
public intrest, and in that principally regard their posterity, as do with pleasure engage with them in denying ourselves
the drinking of foreign tea, in hope to frustrate a plan that tends to deprive a whole community of all that is valuable
to life.' They were joined by others around the country, drinking instead 'Balsamic hyperion' made from dried raspberry
leaves, or infusions of other herbs. The Boston Tea Party did not destroy the American taste for tea, although few
retailers in Boston dared to offer it for sale for a number of years. George and Martha Washington continued
to serve the best quality tea"
About drinking chocolate
"...any collected manuscript from the last quarter of the seventeenth century will surely have recipes involving chocolate; chocolate became the rage among the
ladies and those who would be."
"To make Chocolate. Scrape four ounces of chocolate and pour a quart of boiling water upon it, mill it well with a chocolate mill and sweeten it to your taste. Give it a boil
and let it stand all night, then mill it again very well. Boil it two minutes, then mill it till it will leave a froth upon the top of your cups." Cold, non-alcoholic : apple cider
Alcoholic:
SOURCES: The New Art of Cookery According to Present Practice, Richard Briggs [1792], Martha Washington's Booke of
Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess
What types of beverages were readily available to pioneer-era Americans?
Non-Alcoholic (Hot)
Non-Alcoholic (Cold)
Alcoholic
SOURCES:
"Instant" was a popular term applied to several breakfast products in the 1960s. Our survey of historic newspaper ads
revealed instant orange juice (Tang), cereal (oatmeal, wheat) and coffee. One of the most unusual
combinations (by today's standards) was a product called Tren, "...a mixture of apple juice and egg." (New York Times
September 3, 1962 p. 9). Presumably, milk-based nutritient-fortified breakfast drinks descend from
infant formula and child-friendly
Ovaltine. Powdered addition or pre-mixed in a can,
these drinks were positioned pefectly for the unpenetrated adult market.
According to the records of the US Patent & Tradmark Office, "Instant Breakfast," a nutrient rich meal alternative products targeting adult consumption, was
introduced by La Lanne Inc., Hollywood California, December 15, 1961. Jack La Lanne, the popular television "physical culturist" created his own
personal product line. Then, as today, nutrition claims were challenged by the US Food & Drug Adminstration.
The earliest print reference we find to Carnation brand Instant Breakfast
Drink is 1964. The article indicates this product was test marketed prior to
flooding the national market. This is a common practice in the food world. Many similar products (Metracal) were introduced in this period. They were aimed at
busy, middle-income American women who wanted to lose weight.
[1964]
"Carnation Instant Breakfast," Coffee, Chocolate or Plain, box of 6, 69 cents."---display ad, Los Angeles Times, December 21, 1964 (p. D18)
[1965]
[1966]
[1967]
"You should eat a good, nourishing breakfast. Or you should drink one. New Carnation instant breakfast makes milk a meal too good to miss. Each glass delivers
as much protein as two eggs, as much mineral nourishment as two strips of crisp bacon, more energy than two slices of buttered toast, and even Vitamin C. Lots
of great flavors. In you cereal section. From Carnation."---full page color ad, with photo of box (chocolate flavor), Ladies' Home Journal, January 1967, inside
front cover. [No references to other flavors.]
[1970]
[1974]
[1981]
[1982]
"Cider, a term with two meanings. In N. America since Prohibition it refers to unfermented, unpasteurized, and usually unfiltered
apple juice...Alcoholic cider is now described as 'hard' cider...In Britain, cider is an alcoholic drink, for which special
cider apples are used."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2nd edition, 2007(p. 186)
"Cider-making in England is already a consequence of 1066. No doubt apple juice had been fermented to make an alcoholic drink
in Anglo-Saxon times, but it was the Normans who introduced it in a big way. At first much of it was imported from Normandy...but
soon cider-apple orchards were being planted in Kent and Sussex, and it was not long before the apples, the technology, and the
taste of the dirnk spread throughout the more southerly parts of England...The Normans brought the word with them too: cider (or cyder, as
it is sometimes spelled in Britain) comes from Old French sidre, which was adapted from medieval Latin sicera. This in turn came
from Greek sikera, an approximation used in the Septuagint for Hebrew shekar 'strong drink', a derivative of the verb shakar
'drink heavily'. As this potted history suggests, cider denotes etymologically any intoxicating beverage, and indeed that meaning
survived in English as late as the fifteenth century...A drink made by watering and repressing the pulp from with the original
apple-juice for cider was pressed was known in former times as ciderkin or water-cider."
"The Anglo-Saxons had had some knowledge of 'apple-wine', but there is nothing to suggest that it was either made or drunk to any
extent in England before the Norman Conquest. Cider making was introduced from Normandy about the middle of the twelfth century, and
was at first confined mainly to Kent and Sussex. Sometimes Normandy cider itself was imported...The new beverage soon spread to
other parts of the country...Cider could be made from apples mixed with pears, but if the drink was prepared largely or entirely
of pears, it was usually called perry...Both cider and perry helped to save the grain for brewing, as did other country drinks.">
"Fruit juice was not really an option for the Tudors. Unfermented grape juice, 'must', was importd but would surely have been
a luxury as it cannot have lasted long...Citrus fruits were also expensive, and even though apples and pears were widely grown,
preserving the juice was impossible. The only option was to turn it into cider and perry so that the alcohol would act as a
preservative. Cider and perry were still only widely drunk in certain areas of England, and...tended to be a special
occasion drink."
"Home-brewed ale, beer, cider and mead remained the English staples although there was already, by the end of the sixteenth century,
a brisk trade in imported wines."
"[in the 17th century] Cider and perry...maintained their popularity...In the later seventeenth century a specially constructed
cider mill came into use with a wooden cylinder that was rotated by hand...The apple pulp mixed with boiled water and pressed a
second time yielded [non-alcoholic] water-cider. It was ready for consumption in a within a few days, was drunk at family tables in place
of small beer...Or royal cider could be made, a potent liquor comprising...
Selected American cider recipes
Ancient Central American peoples celebrated religious ceremonies with chocolate drinks.
19th century Dutch, British, and Americans drank hot chocolate for breakfast. The staple pantry powder we take for granted today
is the perfect convervence of technological advancement, marketing savvy, and human quest for simple food that tastes good.
Our survey of historic cookbooks, newspapers and corporate texts confirms the word "cocoa" had three distinct meanings in
the 19th century:
About cocoa
"'Cocoa,' which is British English is often used to refer to what Americans call 'cacao' and 'chocolate.' in American English refers only
to the defatted powder invented by the Dutchman Coenraad Van Houten in 1828...to confuse matters, the New York Commodities Market
calls the unprocessed seeds 'cocoa'!"
Modern chocolate begins in 1828
"In the United States the increased consumption in recent years has been no less striking. The amount of cocoa retained for home
consumption in 1860 was only 1,181,054 pounds; in 1885 it was 8,426,787 pounds (that is, cocoa, crude cocoa and shells, not including
chocolate, which is classes, in the official returns of imports, under the general head of 'farinaceous articles')--and increase
of 614 per cent in twenty-five years."
Baker Company chocolate products
[1886]
First powdered (granulated, prepared, breakfast, ground cocoa/chocolate)?
[1867]
[1874]
[1877]
[1878]
[1879]
[1880]
[1886]
[1911]
[1912]
Survey of 19th century USA cocoa recipes
"Cocoa Shells.--These can be procured at the principal grocers and confectioners, or at a chocolate factory. They are the thin shells that
envelope the chocolate kernel, and are sold at a low price; a pound contains a very large quantity. Soak them in water for five
or six hours or more, (it will be better to soak them all night,) and then boil them in the same water. They should boil two
hours. Strain the liquid when done, and let it be taken warm."
[1862]
[1863]
[1878]
[1879]
"Cocoa.
"Broma.
[1880]
"Cocoa-Prepared.
"To Make Chocolate.
[1886]
"Baker's Prepared Cocoa.
[1886]
Was powdered cocoa used in baking (cakes, cookies, puddings, candies, etc.) in the 19th century?
Related recipe? Chocolate gravy.
According to the food historians, coffee was highly prized for its taste and perceived medicinal qualities. Some speculate
it was adopted as America's "unofficial" brew of choice as a gastronomic statement against British tea.
Coffee houses lodged in urban areas.
American pioneers improvised
creative methods for achieving drinkable pot of coffee. Success varied according to supplies and the exprience of the
cook. A person who could brew a delicious pot of coffee was highly respected.
Eggshells were commmonly employed as clarifying agents. Civil War soldiers craved real
coffee. When the real deal was unavailable, a variety of creative substitutes were employed.
Early American brewing menthods
"Virtues of Coffee: Coffee accelerates digestion corrects crudites, removes colic and flatulencies. It mitigates headaches,
cherishes the animal spirits, takes away listlessness and languor, and is serviceable in all obstructions arising from languid
circulation. It is a wonderful restorative to emaciated constitutions, and highly refereshing to the studious and sedentary.
The habitual use of coffee would greatly promote sobriety being in itself a cordial stimulant; it is a most powerful antidote to the
temptation of spiritous liquors. It will be found a welcome beverage to the robust labourer, who would despise a lighter
drink.---Family Receipt Book, 1819."
"For Improving Coffee: To valetudinarians and others, the following method of making coffee for breakfast is earnestly recommended as
a most wholesome and pleasant jentacular beverage, first ordered by an able physician. Let one ounce of fresh ground coffee be
put into a clean coffee-pot, or other proper vessel well thinned: pour a pint and a quart of boiling water upon it, set it on
the fire, let it boil thoroughly, and afterwards put by to settle: this should be done on the preceding night, and on the
following morning pour off the clear liquor; add to it one pint of new milk; set it again over the fire, but do not let it
boil, Sweetened to every person's taste, coffee thus made is a most wholesome and agreeable breakfast, summer, or winter, with
toast, bread and butter, rusks, biscuits, &c. This process takes off that raw, acidous, and astringent quality of the coffee,
which makes it often disagree with weak stomachs. It should not be drank too warm. A gentleman of the first fortune in the
kingdom, after a variety of medical applications in vain, was restored to health by applying to the above beverage morning
and afternoon.---Family Receipt Book, 1819"
"Coffee Milk: Boil a dessert spoonful of ground coffee in about a pint of milk, a quarter of an hour; then put into it a
shaving or two of isinglass, and clear it; let it boil a few minutes, and set it on the side of the fire to fine. This is a very
fine breakfast, and should be sweetened with real Lisbon sugar. Those of a spare habit, and disposed towards affections of the lungs,
would do well to make this their breakfast.---Mackenzie's 5000 Recipes."
A sampler of 19th American coffee instructions:
I,
II,
III,
IV,
V &
VI
Pioneer coffee
"Although Peter Burnett advised his family, "If you are heavily loaded let the quantity of sugar and coffee be small, as milk
is preferable and does not have to be hauled," his counsel was the exception. Most emigrants took the advice of Anna Maria
King: "Fetch what coffee, sugar and such things you like, if you should be sick you need them." By the time the travelers were nearing
either Oregon of California, coffee was sometimes the only provision left. Catharine Amanda Scott Coburn, and Oregon pioneer,
recalled those times: 'We still had coffees, and, making huge pot of this fragrant beverage, we gathered round the crackling
camp fire--our last in the Cascade Mountains--and, sipping the nectar from rusty cups and eating salal berries gathered during
the day, pitied folks who had no coffee.' A story about coffee illustrates the relationship between Ellen Tootle and her husband,
newlyweds on their way to Colorado to look over the possibilities of expanding their dry-goods business to Denver: 'Mr. Tootle says I
cannot do anything but talk, so would not trust me to make the coffee. Boasted very much of his experience. He decided to make it
himself, but came to ask me how much coffee to take, for information, I know, but he insisted, only out of respect. The coffee pot
holds over 1 qt.; I told him the quantity of coffee to 1 qt. He took that, filled the coffee pot with water then set it near, but not
on the fire. I noticed it did not boil, but said nothing. When they drank it, they both looked rather solemn and only took one
or two sips. I thought it was time to have an opinion upon it. As Mr. Tootle would not volunteer one, I inquired how the coffee
tasted. He acknowledged it was flat and weak, but insisted I did not give him proper directions. He consented to let me try it
at supper time.' Later that evening Ellen Tootle had her chance to prove her culinary skills: 'I was all impatience to try my s
skill in making coffee. I watched it anxiously until it was boiling and waited with the greatest solicitude and I must
acknowledge some misgiving, for them to taste it. Oh, but I was rejoiced and relieved when they pronounced it very good.'
Before making a cup of coffee, the green coffee beans had to be roasted in a skillet and then ground in a grinder. The names of
the beans indicated their place or origin, and we find Rio, Havana, and Java coffee beans listed for sale in the mid-
nineteenth century. If tea was preferred, the buyers chose from a list of brands that featured Gunpowder, Imperial, Young Hyson,
Souchong, and Poushchongre. Not until after the Civil War did manuracturers devise good way of preserving the flavor of preroasted
or ground coffee, sometiems referred to as essence of coffee. But from March 30, 1850, St. Louis Missouri Republican this
ad suggests that they certainly tried. 'California Outfits. Ground Coffee--Put up in water-proof and air-tight packages and
guaranteed to retain its strength and flavor for years.' The credit for a good roasted coffee goes to Arbuckle Brothers, whos
offices were in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. The company patented a method of sealing in the roosted flavor by coating the
beans with a mixture of egg white and sugar. Roasted coffee beans in paper bags were then shipped throughout the West, and
Arbuckle coffee was the most popular brand."
How much did coffee cost? Pioneer provisions list.
Civil War Soldier coffee
"Coffee wes issued to Yankees rather steadily, in the form of raw beans that the men first had to roast without burning and
then crack with their rifle butts or somehow grind before boiling with water. At every meal the coffee came out, and if there
was a halt of more than a few minutes on a march, some men were bound to start a fire and begin making the brew, often mmerely
to be told to throw it out unfinished as they resumed the march. While the coffee's caffeine may have been stiumulating to their
spirits, the boiling also providentially killed much of what inhabited the poor water usually to be had. Confederates, by
comparison, cut off from sources of importation, usually had to substitute chicory, burnt corn and peas, and even potatoes and
peanuts, with far less satisfactory results. "Our coffee when we first went out was issued to us green, so that we had to roast
and grind it, which was not always a success, some of it being burnt, while some would be almost green," said Bellard. "In roasting
it we put a quantity of it in a mess man, and placing the pan over the fire would have to keep stirring it round with a stick in
order to have it roasted as evenly as possible." They could never properly grind the beans, cracking them instead, and
inadequate roasting could turn the beverage awful."
"In 1861, the standard daily ration in the Union army was based on the assumption that not all required ingredients would be
available at all times and places. As a result, it operated on an equivalent or what some called the "lieu thereof" or the "or" system...
Each day a soldier ought to be issued three-fourths of a pound of pork "or" bacon "or" one and one quarter pounds of fresh "or"
salt beef...His bread ration was to be eighteen ounces of fresh bread or flour or theree-fourths of a pound of hardtack or one and one
quarter pounds of cornmeal. Additionally, each 100-man company was to share eight quarts of peas or beans or ten pounds of rice,
ten pounds of coffee or one and a half pounds of tea, fifteen pounds of sugar, four quarts of vinegar, and two quarts of salt. In 1861
the Confederate War Department adopted precisely the same ration allowance as the old United States prewar, excepting that it
recognized the scarcity of coffee and sugar by reducing those from ten pounds of coffee to six and from fifteen pounds of sugar
to twelve. In any event the Southern commissary was rarely able to provide either of those items or those quantities after 1861, ar
at any distance from principal commissary and transport centers...In 1863, responding to the rigors of campaigning, the Union War
Department revised the ration to...[for every 100 rations] ten pounds of green coffee beans or eight pounds of roasted beans,
or one and one half pounds of tea..."
"Finally there was coffee. Soldiers could go for days without food, if only they ahd their coffee. In the Confederacy it became as
highly prized as shoes, and commanded outrageous prices in times of scarcity. Substitutes were tried using chicory or
parched corn, but nothing approaced the real article. As a result, coffee was the item most often requested when Rebs informally
met Yanks between the lines for illict trading. Virginia tobacco being the commodity exchanged. In the North, by contrast, there
was rarely any shortage of coffee beans, and many regiments were actually issued special rifles, one per 100-man company, with a
coffee grinder built into the butt stock. The best coffee was slow roasted over a low fire, "until of a chestnut brown color and not burnt, as
is so commonly done." It was to be boiled briskly for two minutes, then take from the fire at once, a little cold water thrown in, then the
boiler's contents poured through a piece of flannel after it had settled for five minuutes."
"The manner in which each man disposed of his coffee and sugar ration after receiving it worth noting. Every soldier of a month's
experience in campaigning was provided with some sort of bag into which he spooned his coffee; but the some sort of bag he used indicated pretty
accurately, in a general way, the length of time he had been in the service. For example, a raw recruit just arrived would take it up in a
paper, and stow it away in that well known receptacle for all eatables, the soldier's haversack, only to find it a part of a general
mixture of hardtack, salt pork, pepper, salt, knife, fork, spoon, sugar and coffee by the time the next halt was made. A
recruit of longer standing, who had been through this experience and had begun to feel his wisdom-teeth coming, would take his up
in a bag made of a scrap of rubber blanket or poncho; but after a few days carrying the rubber would peel off or the paint of the
poncho would rub off from contact with the greasy pork or boiled meat ration which was his travelling companion, and make a black,
dirty mess, besides leaving he coffee-bag unfit for further use. Now and then some young soldier, a little starchier than his fellows,
would bring out an oil-silk bag lined with cloth, which his mother had made and sent him; but even oil-silk couldn't stand everything,
certainly not the peculiar inside furnishing of the average soldier's haversack, so it too was not long in yielding. But your plain,
straightforward old veteran, who had shed all his poetry and romance, if he had ever possessed any, who had roughed it up and down had ever
possessed any, who would roughed it up and down "Old Virginny," man and boy, for many months, and who had tried all plans under
all circumstances, took out an oblong plain cloth bag, which looked as immaculate as the every-day shirt of a coal-heaver, and into
it scooped without ceremony both his sugar and coffee, and stirred them thoroughly together. There was method in this plan. He had
learned from hard experience that his sugar was a better investment thus disposed of than in any other way; for on several occasions
he had eaten it with his hardtack a little at a time, had got it wet and melted in a rain, or what happened fully as often, had
sweetened his coffee to his taste when the sugar was kept separate, and in consequence had several messes of coffee to drink without
sweetening, which was not to his taste. There was one and then a man who could keep the two separate, sometimes in different ends of the
same bag, and serve them up proportionally. The reader already knows that milk was a luxury in the army. It was a new experience for
for all soldier to drink coffee without milk, But they soon learned to make a virtue of necessity, and I doubt whether one man in
ten, before the war closed, would have used the lactic fluid in his coffee from choice. Condensed milk of two brands, the Lewis and
Borden, was to be had at the sutler's when sutlers were handy, and occasionally milk was brought in from the udders of
stray cows, the men milking them into their canteens; but this was early in the war."
Coffee substitutes
"Beverages also were scarce in the Confederacy and coffee was the most sorely missed of them all. Certainly the shortage of no other
beverage was responsible for such frequent complaint by contemporaries. One wrote that 'The coffee shortage caused more actual
discomfort among the people at large' than did any other. This commodity began to disappear before the summer of 1861 had passed,
and it was rarely seen after the fall of the same year. When one woman had to give it up, she wrote that she lost her
'elasticity of spirit.' Another cried 'Sour Grapes' to those who vowed that they did not miss the universal brew. But as one saw apple pies
without apples, one also found 'coffee' houses where no coffee was served. So dear did coffee become that the jewelers in
Atlanta were reported to have bought all the coffee available 'for sets in breast pins instead of diamonds.' There were those,
however, who managed to have a little coffee from time to time. Some had hoarded a supply, and a small quantity continued to
come through the blockade. Rhose who had coffee usually brewed a weak beverage and added other ingredients to make it go
further. These blends might include parched corn, rye, wheat, okra seed or chicory, and the resutls were not always satisfactory.
One diarist declared that such adulterated coffee was delicious, another thought it nauseating. Whenever the real product made
its appearance, it was the signal for unrepressed glee. Sometimes it was referred to as 'true-true' coffee, and one young lady,
in recording the day's menu in her diary, underlined 'real coffee' twice. When a train carrying 'blockade' coffee was wrecked nar
Sumpter, South Carolina, the eager, thirsty, inhabitants of the area rushed to the scene of the wreck and took home sacks of the
real bean. One editor worte that 'more real coffee has been drunk in that neighborhood within a few days than for a long time. The civilian population attacked the problem of substitutes for coffee with a determination and energy unlike that exhibited in
the search for other expedients. No other single item had more substitutes. The people worked at the project unceasingly, with
the result that 'few were the substances which did not...find their way into a coffee pot.' Boundless was the pride of the housewife
who discovered and put into use a substitute that would deceive her guests into thinking that they were drinking the real thing.
Nearly all women had their own combinations, but usually they shared the secret with those who were interested. Among the most popular, and
apparently the most successful, of the substitutes was rye. This was boiled, dried, then ground like coffee. A mild debate was
carried on through the newspapers as to whether or not rye thus used was harmful to the body; regardless of the points made,
people continued to use it. Another substitute frequently use was okra seed. More expensive and troublesome than rye, it was
nevertheless popular. Its proponents were convinced that it was by far the best substitute. The okra seeds were dried and parched in a similar
manner to rye. Cporn, too, was used and prepared in a like manner, and there were thouse who preferred corn 'coffee' to any
other. The dashing General J.E.B. Stuart was reported to be of this group. Sweet potato 'coffee' was another of the more popular wartime
expedients. Potatoes were peeled and cut into 'chunks' about ths size of coffee berries. The pieces were spread out in the sun
to dry, then parched until brown, after which they were ground. The grounds were mixed with a little water until a paste resulted, after
which hot water was added. When the grounds settled to the bottom of the coffee pot, the beverate could be poured and drunk...Other coffee
substitutes were acorns, dandilion roots, sugar cane, parched rice, cotton seed, sourghum molasses, English peas, peanutes, wheat,
and beans."
Recipes & brewing notes
Acorns
Sweet potatoes
Okra
Corn
"Dyspepsia Coffee.
Rye
"Hunts Breakfast Powder"--Rye roasted with a little butter and ground fine. An excellent substitute for coffee. Boil thoroughly. Coffee (cheap substitute)--Chop
beet root fine, and dry in a closed pan over the fire. Then roast with a little fresh butter until it can be ground."
Food historians generally agree Irish coffee, a warming composition of coffee, whiskey, sugar and heavy cream,
is a 20th century libation. The credits are constant and documented: Shannon airport (first location), Joe Sheridan (chef inventor), Stan Delaplane (syndicated columnist credited
for making beverage popular in USA), and Buena Vista Cafe, San Francisco (signature drink). Simple as that? It could be.
Examining American print in hopes of discovering "the truth" behind Irish coffee is like sifting through another family's
secret treasures. Articles chip uncomfortably at obscure shadows reconciling professional passion and human fortune. The real story
behind Irish coffee may just be: If you're not careful, you'll get what you ask for.
[1942]
"American soldiers in Ulster...profess a liking for the friendly people and the pretty girls, but find fault with the coffee and the
beer. Whiskey is expensive and high-powered, the beer flat and less palatable than the American variety and the coffee weak.
Most of the griping comes from the coffee addicts. It is by far the most popular drink among the expeditionists. Irish cooks, it seems,
simply do not know how to make good coffee, a blind spot they share with most American cooks...Any good coffee hound, even at an
airline distance of 4,500 miles, can tell you what's the matter with Irish coffee. it is weak, it tastes like an infusion of dishrags,
and its original bouquet is lost amid the assorted smells which come from pots not properly aired and sunned...But poor coffee
isn't peculiar to the warmhearted Irish people. It is practically universal among all the races of mankind...We hope the coffee in Ulster doesn't
drive our boys to harder stuff."
[1943]
"This restaurant had been considered to be one of
the best restaurants in Ireland at that time. Chef Joe Sheridan, originally from Castlederg, County Tyrone, had been recruited by Brendan. When
Joe was asked to prepare something warm for the passengers, he decided to put some good Irish Whiskey into their coffees. One of the
passengers approached the Chef and thanked him for the wonderful coffee. He asked Joe did he use Brazilian Coffee? Joe jokingly answered,
"No that was Irish Coffee!!"A few weeks later, Chef Sheridan knocked on Brendan O'Regan's office door. He showed Brendan this new drink in a
stemmed glass and asked him "How about that for eye appeal". Brendan answered "Genius Chef" and so began Irish Coffee. Irish Coffee continued
to be served at Foynes to all passengers and is still served to this day to all dignitaries arriving at Shannon Airport."
[1950]
"You ever tried Irish coffee at 4 a.m. on a cold and rainy night in Shannon? You haven't lived. I'm rolling across Newfoundland at this
writing on a TWA Constellation and I'm still smacking my lips of that astonishing nectar the Irish provided at their snug little
airport a few hours and one ocean ago. The recipe is simple: You take a goblet with a long stem so you'll have something to hold on to. Into the bottom of it you
sprinkle a teaspoon of sugar. On this you pour a jigger if Irish whisky. You stir it. Then you fill the glass to within a
half inch of the top with strong, black coffee...On to this mixture, carefully so it won't mix, you ladle stiff
sweet cream into the brim. That does it. Now you sip appreciatively and silently thank the Irish for inventing such a brew to warm
the inner and and quell the terrors of the night. Something else cheered me in Shannon, too, something with red hair and jeweled
blue eyes: one of the prettiest sights I ever saw. Our plane had soared up from Orly Airport in Paris earlier in the night, circled
once around the Eiffel Tower, cut through the blackness over France and England, and eased down in Shannon with the propellers beating
cascades of rain against the windows. We weary-eyed passenger stumbled down the aluminum steps to stretch our legs (we didn't know that
we were about to learn the delights of Irish coffee;) and there she was. This colleen in the deep green uniform of her government, waiting
to greet us. There were rain drops on her eyelashes, and, in the floodlights by the plane, they glistened like diamonds. We, who have
just left the mascarred and rouged ladies of a Parisian hot spot, stopped and stared. I'm, afraid we weren't very polite. She
laughed, shook the rain from here eyes ...and led us into the lounge by the fire where the waiters already had mixed the sugar and
the whisky in the glasses and were poised with the coffee and the bowls of cream. Most of the big airliners these days give Shannon the
old go-by. Only when they are heavily laden with passengers and plunder from the far corners of Europe do they put down in Ireland
to fill the gas tanks for the hop access the Atlantic. This, I think, is too bad. Those passengers who skip Shannon miss one of the
pleasantest interludes available anywhere to the traveler."
[1951]
"Don't have time for a full dinner?...Gaelic Coffee...hot and strong, with whipped cream and Irish Mountain Dew liquors."
[1953]
"The dinner at Shannon, as is usual on these trans-Atlantic air flights, are quite an international affair. There were
10 passengers at our table...After a leisurely dinner, followed by Irish coffee (hot coffee with whipped cream served in glass goblets fortified with Irish
whiskey for flavoring), the 42 passengers climbed back into the giant 80 seat Boeing Stratocruiser and settled themselves..."
---"Slow Plane to America," John B. Crane, Post-Standard [Syracuse NY], January 12, 1953 (p. 4)
[1954]
"Irish coffee has become a nobel experiment in San Francisco these days. I claim a modest share in this since I ruined a bottle of the
best John Powers trying to make the cream float. For some reason the cream floats beautifully in Dublin. But for me in the States
it sinks. Irish coffee is compounded of hot coffee, sugar and Irish whiskey in a bell-shaped glass. On the top of this you float a
half inch of chilled cream. One of them takes the chill off. Two of them set you to singing 'Down Went McGinty to the Bottom of
the Sea.' I ran into it first at Shannon airport. I had spent the raw, rainy day in nearby Ennis with a sentimental American
journalist with an Irish name. He was looking for relatives of his great-grandfather. And for some reason he sought them only in the
Ennis pubs. I was extremely sore-footed. I had climbed into my first Irish bed. It was cold as Cromwell's heart at the top. And
someone had tucked a blistering bottle of hot water at the bottom. I sat before the peat fire in the Old Ground with my shoes off.
'What you need,' said the waiter, 'is a Gaelic coffee.' "Drink a health,' I said...Now the only reason I bring this up is because
it us customary to speak well of the Irish this day. And I cannot speak any higher than of their coffee. It is smooth as nectar.
The steaming fragrance rises through the collar of Irish country cream. I have had some strange experiences in the making. The
trick is to make the cream float. 'You must have the coffee well-sugared,' a waiter told me in Dublin. Old Bailey in
Duke street. He mixed his dollop of whiskey and two spoons of sugar and coffee up to an inch below the rim of the class. Then he
laid a spoon bottom side up on top of the coffee and poured the cream slowly over that. In the Red Bank of Dublin, the waiter poured
the cream from a little pitcher down the side the glass. I have tried both. Sometimes my cream floated. Sometimes it didn't. The
oddest performance was at breakfast in Massachusetts. My cream floated wonderfully on the first batch. It and despairingly thereafter.
I checked every possible angle. Finally we discovered the second pot of coffee had been made with an eggshell in it. We made new coffee
without the eggshell and the cream rode the top again. No particular reason for all this. Except as I say it is the day of the Irish.
And I have been considering the luck of the Irish. And come to the conclusion that the luckiest thing is that they have Irish coffee. It keeps
the end of you warm that is not warmed in the Irish beds. The middle then takes care of itself."
"'Chef by the name of Joe Sheridan invented Gaelic coffee,' said the man at Shannon airport. 'Twas in the old days the flying boats
were landing at Foynes. About '38 I should say. The passengers would come in by launch, shivering and shaking for to die with the
cold and all. 'Surley,' said Joe Sheridan, 'we must invent a stirrup cup for the pour souls, and them not able to put their
shivering hands in their pockets for a shipping to pay unless we warm them...We have been serving Gaelic coffee since...And where is
Joe Sheridan now?...Ah said the Shannon man, 'Joe Sheridan went to Chicago to make his fortune. The last I've heard, he was chef
at the Chicago airport.' I asked him if he know that Chicago's airport was dry. A technicality of state law since the school system
owns the property. Poor Joe...sighed the airport man."
[1955]
"The news that Mr. Pat Moriarity's Chophouse on Sixth Avenue in New York is serving 'Irish Coffee Royal' brought Mr. Joe
Sheridan to my door...Mr. Shereidan is the inventor of Irish or Gaelic coffee...I ran into it first at rainy Shannon Airport. It appears on
all Irish menus. It spread to San Francisco, to the Hotel Sherman in Chicago, to the Mapes in Reno...'Now I invented it in the old
days when the flyin' boats were coming to Foynes in Ireland. They were havin' a celebration like for the new lines and they wanted a drink with
a warm glow to it. There's some say that I put the whisky in it to take away the taste of the horrible Irish coffee. But that's
not true.. It is a drink I took myself every morning for my hangover. I put a little whisky in the coffee. I don't drink now...for it became bad
for the health and I couldn't do it financially. As a matter of fact I'm a member of the AA, a back-sliding one in a way. For sometimes
I've gone for a good one and worked by way from the elegant Hotel St. Francis down to Skid Road and back again. I brought
my friend from the St. Francis down to Skid Road...but the St. Francis objected when I brought my friends from Skid Road up to the
St. Francis. Mr. Joe Sheridan is a chef. He has been chef at Shannon and at Waikiki and presently at Place Pigalle in San
Francisco...'Now I've kept under cover while the Irish coffee thing was beginning in the United States...until I could see which
way the wind blows. I'm in hopes that it will go through the hotels down to the bars.'...I asked Mr. Sheridan if he had a preference in
Irish whisky for the makings. 'In the old days I used John Powers or John Jamieson's. it was served in the best hotels in
Ireland and was drunk by the elite of Ireland. now in those days, William of Tullamore was a small concern and was not used by
the high class people. The O'Regans would never dream of it. But now I see Tullamore Dew has gone all out and captured the export
trade in many places.'...I asked Mr. Sheridan how much sugar he put in the coffee-and-whisky. 'Two lumps, cocktail size...When
I made it for myself for the hangover, I drank it black. But with all the vice presidents and the big people comin' to Foynes for
the celebrations, I floated the cream on top for the taste and the looks of it. I called it Gaelic coffee. But here in America it
would be alright to call it Irish coffee. It being an Irish drink, invented by an Irishman and served in Ireland."
[1955]
"On a chilly fall day at Shannon Airport five years ago, San Francisco Chronicle Columnist Stan ('Postacrs') Delplane stepped up to a bar for a bracer. From the other side,
he was handed a drink he had never tasted before . Delaplane inquired and got--complete with an Irishman's flair for a tale--Bartender Joe Sheridan's explanation of the
origin of the drink. Back in San Francisco Columnist Delaplane remembered the drink and the story. In his column, he wrote: 'Twas in the old days the flying boats were
landing at Foynes--about '38 I should say: the passengers would come in by launch, shivering and shaking for to die with cold. 'Surely,' said Joe Sheidan, 'we must invent
a stirrup cup for the poor souls and them not able to pub their shivering hands in their pockets for a shilling to pay unless we warm them. What is more 'warming,' said
Joe, 'thank Irish whisky, smooth as a maiden's kiss? To take the chill off their poor shaking hands we will fill the glass with coffee black as Cromwell's heart. We will top it
with a floating inch of Irish cream.' The result: Irish coffee. The memory of the drink was not enough for Columnist Delaplane. One night at San Francisco's Buena Vista
bar, he showed the bartender how to make Irish coffee. The drink that Columnist Delaplane mixed (and reported in his column), packed a wallop felt far from San
Francisco. A few weeks after Delaplane's demonstration came a startled cable from Ireland to a San Francisco liquor importer: What;s Happening? The answer: Delaplane
had touched off a craze for Irish coffee. In San Francisco's Buena Vista bar alone, consumption of Irish whisky leaped from two cases a year to 1,000 cases, an average
of 700 Irish coffees a day. Visitors from some 40-odd cities where Delaplane's columns turned up in droves to sample the magic dew. The consumption of Irish coffee
has become to great that exports of Irish whisky to the U.S. increased 40% last year, to 10,000 cases. In Manhattan, bistro from Pat Moriarity's Chop House (price: 85
cents) to the 21 Club ([price $1.75) have begun ladling out Irish coffee. TV Star Jack Webb built an entire Dragnet around Irish Coffee...This fall the flabbergasted Irish
whisky industry begins a campaign to put Irish coffee on the menus of bars and restaurants all over the U.S. But the men who introduced the drink to America, Bartender
Joe Sheridan and Columnist Stan Delaplane, will not be part of the campaign. Joe Sheridan, who left Ireland and drifted to Canada, Hawaii and finally by sheer coincidence,
to San Francisco, cannot stand to even look at the drink any more. Instead of taking a place of honor he has been offered behind the bar at the Buena Vista, he works as
a cook in Tiny's Waffle Shop, an all-night restaurant near San Francisco's Union Square. 'Whisky and me, 'tis the sad truth,' he says, 'do not get along, whether it be in
coffee or not.' As for Stan Delaplane, he avoids Irish whisky even straight (as it should be drunk), and will have not truck with Irish coffee. Says he: 'I can't stand the stuff
any more.' Recipe: preheat a six-ounce glass with very hot water. Empty and refill the glass there-fourths full of hot, black, strong coffee. Add three cubes of sugar and
stir until dissolved. Add a full jigger if Irish whisky and float whipped cream on top."
[1960]
"Other than the society pages, you'll probably see more social celebs at the San Francisco Buena Vista Cafe sipping Irish coffee and
chatting about their next yacht trip than in any other place in town. This foot of Hyde street restaurant and bar helped put Irish
whisky on the bal when they started serving their now-famous Irish coffee. Excellent cafe for dining with an ocean view for a
panoramic backdrop."
[1964]
"Irish Coffee was evolved late in the 1930s at Shannon Airport by the head chef, a Gael named Joe Sheridan. And America
provided an assist. The drink was inspired by a group of tourists from this country who arrived at the airport on a cold,
wintry night in dire need of stimulant. Their plan had been delayed and they were weary and wet. The waiter became confused by the
several orders if it coffee and hot toddies, Sheridan rose nobly to the occasion. In a burst of enthusiasm and inventiveness he
combined a jigger of Irish whiskey, sugar, hot black coffee and whipped cream, all in preheated glass. Anyone who has seen or sampled the
Irish Coffee knows the cream must be poured gently to form a white collar above the black base. Of course, uninspired bartenders in
this country can, and do, employee whipped whip cream, but Sheridan used the fresh variety...It is only fair to San Francisco
to explain Irish Coffee, although not originating there, was given a boost by the writings of a transbay travel columnist
who we'll call Stan Delaplane. He sampled the nectar at Shannon and wrote about it. Word spread through California, across the
Rockies and eventually to New York. Now Irish Coffee is as well-known in our country as the martini...Perhaps readers of this piece will
image I exhumed these enlightening facts during an extended stay in Ireland last year. Journalistic integrity insists credit be given
where credit is due--to the Department of External Affairs of dear old Ireland..."
---"The Truth About Irish Coffee," Alan Ward, Oakland Tribune [CA], March 20, 1964 (p. 32)
[1966]
"'There we were, Brandon O'Regan and I...having an Irish coffee to the memory of Joe Sheridan, who invented it. 'Joe
Sheridan wrote me,' said O'Regan. 'And he said in his letter, 'There's some say it wasn't me that invented Irish coffee and maybe
you'd better set them straight...For you must remember you asked me for a warm drink for the passengers when the old flying boats
used to come into Shannon.' 'And that's true, said O'Regan, 'and I did remember. But I didn't say so. For some other people in
Ireland were claiming it. And it looked like I would be blowing my own horn too much since I'm still running Shannon Airport. And
now that Joe Sheridan is gone, It's a thing I regret not doing.' That was a few weeks ago. So off today to the Buena Vista Cafe on
San Francisco's waterfront. It made Irish coffee famous. And by it became famous itself all over the world...The coffee (Irish whisky
and coffee topped with a collar of cream) has spread to places you wouldn't believe. They serve Irish coffee in the Parisian Grill
in Hong Kong...Joe Sheridan kept a clipping of mine. It said flatly that he invented the heart-warming drink. He kept it in his
foxy pocket. Which shows how much store he put by it (Seamen sew a hidden pocket in their clothes--they foxy pocket). 'This is the
proof of it,' Joe told me. I don't know why some of the Dublin people said it was somebody else invented Irish coffee. I guess when
something becomes famous, a crowd of people rise up to take credit for it,' said O'Regan...Joe Sheridan didn't die in Ireland.
He went to sea. Sailed out of here through the Golden Gate and never came back. He died in some Far East Port, a lonely seaman's
death. It was his heart, I think. I can't even remember the city where he was buried."
[1973]
"Now year year it told by some that Irish coffee--and it was known then as Gaelic coffee--was invented in the Green Dolphin in Dublin.
That's long gone...No matter. The truth of it is the Gaelic coffee was first put together by Joe Sheridan who was chef here when the
flying boats used to put in at Foynes on the river. He's dead now...."
[1978]
"'The plaque to Joe Sheridan who invented Irish coffee?...Ah, it's in the back room for polishing.' [The bartender] went back and brought
it our. Propped it on the bar. And I had an Irish coffee in memory of Joe who made the first of those heartwarming drinks when
the flying boats were crossing the cold Atlantic to Ireland."
[1983]
"Irish coffee...was first introduced in America by Stanton Delaplane, the Pulitzer Prize winning columnist for the San
Francisco Chronicle. Although Delapane did not win the prize for his introduction, it should be, nonetheless, a grateful nation that
raises its mug on St. Paddy's Day...'To Delaplane.' 'It was invented back in 1945, or '48, by a bartender at
Shannon Airport whose name was Joe Sheridan,' Delaplane recently recalled. 'The first time I had it was about 1950. I was with Earl
Wilson and a bunch of guys, and we got into Shannon at about 5 on a real rosy Irish morning. 'We'd blown an engine--it was pretty
standard back then to blow an engine going over the Atlantic--so we had to stay over. At that time Shannon was a very small airport.
There were no big shops, no hotel. Nothing. There were a couple of Quonset huts that we stayed in, and that's how I got into Irish
coffee; there was nothing else to do. 'When I came back to San Francisco, I went down to the Buena Vista, a little bar on the
waterfront frequented by newspapermen. The place as doing so badly back then there were only about three guys in the place.
We decided to work out the recipe for Irish coffee. 'Our first attempts...were so bad we couldn't even get the cream to
float. Anyway, one of the guys there was a guy who would drink anything. We'd mix one up, hate it, and sent it on down to him...
and he'd drink it. They were kinda milky-looking things and terrible. We kept on trying...and that guy just got drunker and
drinker. The problem was the cream. Irish cream is much heavier than American cream. 'The viscosity--the surface tension--holds
up the cream,' Delaplane reveals. 'When you hae think cream to start with, and you add sugar to the coffee, well, it's
difficult. The solution was eventually discovered, and is still used at the Buena Vista. The cream is aerated for a second or two
in a blender before it is oured over the back of a spoon into the coffee, where it then flats. Irish coffee turned the
Buena Vista around, according to Delaplane, and made its reputation. The establishment, adjacent to the cable care turn-around
at Fisherman's Warf, is immensley successful; 36 1-quart bottles of Irish whiskey have been poured every single day for the
last 20 years. Delaplane feels 'very little remorse' about frayning the American moral fiber with his Irish coffee. He is, in fact,
somewhat proud. 'They put up a bronze plaque outside the Buena Vista in my honor...I don't drink Irish coffee much over here. I
drink it sometimes when I'm in Ireland as a kind of gesture or a vote of confidence; getting it now is different. I don't get the
same feeling I used to get back then. It's like a time that was baked in my life, like your first date...It was like a time and a
place that were just right for me. Life was a little more adventurous back then. What you need to do...is fly all night from Newfoundland
in a propeller-driven airplane. We flew so low we could see icebergs, and we'd get into Shannon at 5 o'clock on one of those
wonderful Irish monrnings. There was snow on the runway and it was bitterly cold. The we'd take the Irish coffee, and it was great.
I'll never do that again,' Delaplane says with a sad fondness...
[1984]
"One of the recent calls I received came from Ireland...Eugene McSweeney, chef-owner of Lacken House in Kilkenny called. McSweeney telephoned
recently with only the slighted degree of ire, to set the record straight on Irish Coffee. It seems that many American food writers
have been perpetuating the rumor (like Chinese chop suey and French tast) Irish Coffee was actually invented in the United
States. The place of origin supposedly is the bar of the St. Francis Hotel in San Francisco. Not so, claims McSweeney with a
sheaf of historical documentation to prove the drink's actual source. Since Irish Coffee is certainly a favored libation from coast
to coast, it seemed high time to get the facts nailed down, so I did. And pried a recipe for the spirited drink from McSweeney
in passing. According to McSweeny, Irish Coffee was the invention of bar man Joe Sheridan who tended the pub at Shannon
Airport in 1949 when it was known as Foyne's Flying Boat Basin. As the story goes, one morning when the clipper was overdue from
America, passengers were so cold that they begged him for a quick hot toddy to revive their flagging spirits. Being a creative
fellow, he whipped up a drink of what he had on hand: fresh brewed coffee, brown sugar and Irish whiskey. He floated some whipping
cream on top. The rest is history, and there is even a plaque commemorating Sheridan's stirring arm at Shannon Airport."
[1988]
"Stanton Delaplane, Pulitzer Prize-winning columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle and a world traveler with
popularizing Irish Coffee in the United States, died in San Francisco on Monday at the age of 80...Delaplane, who spent about half
the year overseas to create his six-day-a-week columns, joined the Chronicle in 1938 as a reporter. He became a syndicated
columnist when a series of 'Postcards' he went back from a trip were collected and published. His subjects ranged from unusual people
to those he knew best, his family and friends...Delaplane's connection to Irish coffee is part of San Francisco history. After
sampling the libation at Shannon Airport, he returned to America and spent a long evening studiously working out the proper balance
of whiskey, coffee, sugar and cream at the Buena Vista Cafe near the food to Hyde Street. Overnight, Jack Koeppler, the late owner
of the bar, found himself overrun with patrons and the drink's popularity spread rapidly. Later, Delaplane was quoted in Time
magazine as saying , 'I can't stand the stuff anymore.'"
Lemonade is
(along with several other popular food innovations) sometimes touted as having been
"introduced" at the St. Louis Exposition in 1904. This is not true. Culinary evidence confirms it
was known long before then. Lemonade's rise to popularity in our country is generally attributed
to the Temperance (anti-alcohol) Movement of the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Pink lemonade
also surfaced at this time.
Food historians tell us hunter-gatherers inhabiting northern regions used ice for storage and food
preservation. This was a matter of practicality, not choice. Cooled drinks and frozen desserts,
such as lemonade, iced tea & granita/sherbet were enjoyed by upper-class ancient
civilizations.
They were also sometimes prescribed as medicinals. Lemons are "Old World"
foods.
Early records place the origins of this drink in the Mediterranean region.
This beverage was introduced to America by European settlers. Economics of the ice trade
expanded the markets for cold drinks in the mid-nineteenth century.
The "prehistory" of lemonade:
Early history/Clifford A.
Wright
About modern lemonade
"From its simple seventeenth-century beginnings as a drink made from lemon juice and water,
usually with sugar, lemonade has diverisfied widely...The term is an adapation of French
limonade, a derivative of limon...It was the first example in English of a word for a fruit drink
ending in -ade (orangeade followed in the eighteenth century), but it was not really until the late
nineteenth century that the suffix took on a life of its own with new formations such as cherryade,
gingerade, and limeade."
"Lemonade, which in its simplest form is a drink made with lemon juice, sugar, and water, has a
history dating back at least to the thirteenth century, when Arab cookery books offered recipes
for drinks made from lemon syrup. The Mongols enjoyed a sweetened lemon drink preserved with
alcohol, and the Persians enjoyed sharbia, from which English "sherbet" derives. By the
mid-seventeeeth century the drink was popular in Europe when limoadiers, street vendors in
France,
sold lemonade at modest prices. A lemonade recipe appeares in the 1653 English translation of La
Varenne's The French Cook. Lemonade arrived in America no later than the eighteenth
century,
imported from the various European cultures of immigrants...lemonade's image underwent a
transformation engendered by the temperance movement, which turned lemonade into a genteel
Victorian drink...Modern technology also helped the juice flow...Lemonade's popularity rose
unabated, prompting the 1901 New Orleans Times-Picayune's Creole Cook Book to
proclaim, "Lemonade is among the most delightful and most commonly used of all Fruit Waters."
Lemonade was also considered a tonic, served to those suffering from colds...or to invalids."
Grocer's notes, circa 1883:
[1653]
[1769]
[late 1700s]
[1845]
"Excellent Portable Lemonade. Rasp, with a quarter-pound of sugar, the rind of a very
fine juicy lemon, reduce it to powder, and pour on it the strained juice of the fruit. Press the
mixture into a jar, and when wanted for use dissolve a tablespoonful of it in a glass of water. It
will keep a considerable time. If too sweet for the taste of the drinker, a very small portion of
citric acid may be added when it is taken."
[1869]
[1877]
[1884]
[1891]
[1892]
[1906]
[1913]
[1920]
[1936]
[1944]
[1956]
[1963]
[1973]
[1963]
[1965]
[1969]
"Solow/Wexton, which gave us the Herring Maven, is now out to further popularize two American slang words of derision--gooky and
yucchy. The agency will be doing it for PDQ, a chocolate additive for milk made by the National Sugar Refnining Company ('not all
gooky and yucchy like other chocolate stuff'). For eight weeks, even New York radio stations are going to be saturated with gooky-yucchy, and there'll also
be four-color ads in the The York Times Magazine."---"Agency to Popularize Slang Words," New York Times, October 6, 1969 (p. 74)
"PDQ Beads is the fastest and neatest stuff for milk. And a lot of other tings. Such as: It's a great snack right from the jar. It's
a swell ice cream topping. It's dandy for chocolate sauce, chocolate cake, pinwheel cookies. And lots more. But mostly it makes
the best chocolate drink in town. Those PDQ flavor beads really dissolve and disappear into the milk--not onto the glass. You'll
know PDQ. It's the big 14 ounce jar of chocolate flavor beads sitting alongside chunky, cardboard cartons on your grocer's shelf.
So get PDQ--quick. And save a dime. (PDQ and Jack Frost sugar are products of the National Sugar Refining Company.)"
---display ad with coupon, Bridgeport Telegram [CT], October 23, 1969 (p. 34)
[1971]
PDQ advertised in cartoon-strip form. "Petey Q. and The Stolen Rocket Tent ad was published in the comic section of several USA newspapers. Ad invited consumers to purchase the
PDQ Rocket Tent ,a portable play space for children, for $2.50. This example came from the San Antonio Light [TX], March 14, 1971 (p. 26).
[1980]
US Trademark registrations:
"Word Mark PDQ CHOCO CHIPS Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 030. US 046. G & S: SOLID FOOD FLAVORING MATERIAL IN GRANULAR
FORM. FIRST USE: 19720303. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19720303 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 72418568
Filing Date March 16, 1972 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0966645 Registration Date August 21, 1973
Owner (REGISTRANT) SANDOZ-WANDER, INC. CORPORATION DELAWARE 59 ROUTE 10 07936 EAST HANOVER NEW JERSEY 07936
Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Prior Registrations 0798139 Disclaimer APPLICANT CLAIMS NO REGISTRATION RIGHTS
HEREIN FOR THE WORD "CHIPS" APART FROM THE MARK AS SHOWN, BUT APPLICANT WAIVES NONE OF ITS COMMON LAW
RIGHTS IN SAID MARK OR ANY FEATURE THEREOF. Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL Live/Dead Indicator DEAD"
?
"Word Mark PDQ BERRY BITS Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 030. US 046. G & S: SOLID FOOD FLAVORING MATERIAL IN GRANULAR
FORM. FIRST USE: 19720510. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19720510 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 72445282
Filing Date January 5, 1973 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0976041 Registration Date January 1, 1974
Owner (REGISTRANT) SANDOZ-WANDER, INC. CORPORATION DELAWARE 59 ROUTE 10 EAST HANOVER NEW JERSEY 07936
Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Prior Registrations 0798139 Disclaimer APPLICANT CLAIMS NO REGISTRATION RIGHTS
HEREIN FOR THE WORDS "BERRY BITS" APART FROM THE MARK AS SHOWN, BUT APPLICANT WAIVES NONE OF ITS COMMON
LAW RIGHTS IN SAID MARK OR ANY FEATURE THEREOF. Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL Affidavit Text SECT 8
(6-YR). Live/Dead Indicator DEAD"
About Pink Lemonade
Newspaper articles reporting Mr. Allott's death (1912) mention he invented the drink when he was 14 of 15. They do not, however, reveal his birth year or tell us
how old he was when he died. Federal census records list two Henry Allotts. By process of elmination, our Henry was born in Wisconsin, 1858. He was 54 when
he died in 1912. That would place his invention around 1872-1873.
THE LEGEND
"Henry E. Allott, known all through the Middle West as 'Bunk' Allen, member of the old Chicago gambling syndicate, saloonkeeper, theatrical promoter, circus
man, and inventor of pink lemonade, died here today. At 15 he ran away with the circus and obtained a lemonade concession. One day while mixing a tub full of the
orthodox yellow kind he dropped some red cinnamon candi es in by mistake. The resulting rose-tinted mixture sold so surprisingly well that he continuted to
dispense his chance discovery."
"The man who invented pink lemonade crossed over the river last week and now rests with the departed souls...He was Henry E. Allott, a circus man, who was
brought up in the Middle West--of course he was a circus man, for pink lemonade and the circus were as closely linked, say, as galluses and overalls. But Allott,
besides being a child of the three-ringed tent and the animal side show, was a child of Fortune, too. For the discovery of the dink which gave him fame was sheer
accident--perhaps it was...Fortune's wings that brushed the cinnamon red candies off the box into Allott's tub of lemonade and changed the color to a
flowing pink--and pink lemonade had arrived. This is just how it happened. Allott was 14 years old at the time, and running the candy and lemonade "concession,"
following a circus around the country...After the cinnamon candies had accidentally dropped in and suffused the lemonade on the instance we are speaking of, the
new drink sold better than the old, and it was plain to Henry Allott that if the people who attended circuses had not been crying in divine high Pehlevi for lemonade,
red lemonade, they had, in their own language, been hankering for it. Tub after tub was emptied, while the old yellow drink remained untouched. Thereafter the
circus marked pink lemonade for its own...And the pink lemonade was there...It was there just as sure as the lady bareback rider came in gracefully balancing herself
on her toes on the back of a white Chippendale horse...In your pocket you had 10 cents or maybe a quarter. Soon the men in red coats come up the aisles with the
baskets of popcorn done up in red and blue and white oiled paper, with a prize in each, and peanuts, and--pink lemonade in glasses set in trays, with a straw in
each and a piece of lemon floating on top--they myrmidons of Henry Allott... 25 years ago every boy and man...would have said that if pink lemonade went the
circus must fall with it...It is a comfort to observe how sternly this institution kept to its early traditions; and never lost its colors even in its battle with the hosts of
the pure-food forces. Pink it was when the cinnamon drops of Henry Allott first dissolved themselves in the wassail bowl he was mixing, and pink it remained--
faded, perhaps, in the once-cent-a-glass grade which Allott never knew--but still a tint of the original color. And it would have been easy for an innovator in this age
of change, you might think, to have mixed his wares with a little copperas, or carbide, or paris green, or whatever it is that one person says makes a food product
one color and another fellow says it doesn't--easy, you would think, to put green lemonade on the market, or purple, and wean a portion of the public away from
the original brand...But not, Pink it remained, ranging in the better grades to red...But the people, as a whole, which is the only way to speak of the pink-lemonade-
drinking public, kept to their first love, and there has been much quiet satisfaction on this score among those who otherwise might have been prone to see in this
country a tendency to lapse from the older thinking which have made the nation stable, even though times of unrest--times when pink lemonade itself might not have
brooked the assaults against its bastions."
The earliest print reference we find in an American source does indeed link pink lemonade with the circus:
The earliest reference we find for making lemonade pink are:
[1892]
"Cordial. Whether adjective or noun, is derived from the Latin word for the heart, "cor." As a noun, it may mean a medicine, or
medicinal food or drink, with the property of stimulating the heart and therefore the circulation. The term came also to mean a fruit
syrup or concentrated and sweetened fruit-based beverage, presumably because it was believed that a preparation of this sort would
have this effect. This sense of the word dates back to medieval times...Reference to cordials were far more frequent 100 eyars ago
than now, and the sense of the term far wider."
"Cordials, sometimes referred to as liqueurs...are made from distilled spirits flavored with fruits, herbs, spices, or other botanicals;
they are sweetened with sugar, honey or other agents and diluted with wine, ater, or other liquids bearing less alcohol than
spirits. Coridal are one of the earliest forms of distilled beverages and frequently were used as medicines, since it was believed that
the curative properties of certain herbs could be preserved in spirits...Early cordials were used both as potable medicines and
as liquid ointments for bathing wounds."
Related beverages: punch, shrub & switchel.
Unflavored, unsweeted, no-cal carbonated water products [soda water and tonic water] have been consumed from the earliest days
of soda fountains. Soda water and tonic water were generally mixed with other ingredients (sweet syrups, liqueurs, ice cream) for
flavor. These products were initially promoted as health drinks. Especially as alternatives to *demon* alcohol. By the 1880s,
sweentened carbonated beverages became a product in their own right. Think: Dr. Pepper and Coca Cola.
Artificially sweetened low-calorie carbonated beverages first surface in the 1950s. The earliest products were promoted to
diabetics and dieters searching for sugar-free alternatives. Kirsch introduced No-Cal 1952, selling the
product in selected NYC diet food stores. One year later, several major beverage
companies penetrated the sugar-free carbonated drink market. By the early 1960s dozens of
companies were competing for supermarket shelf-space. Coca Cola and Pepsi were not leaders, but followers. This new diet drink
was not embraced without challenge. Huge sales
and high public demand helped companies
overcome federal and state government regulations forbidding the use of artificial sweeteners in
carbonated beverages. The reason behind the regulations are not addressed (protect the sugar industry? health concerns?).
Diet sodas are challenged today for health reasons.
The Wall Street Journal reported the first results of the diet soda industry: "The collective summer thirst of Americans in all parts of the country is also boosting sales of some relative
newcomers to the carbonated market--quinine water, now used chiefly as a mixer for 'gin and tonic,' and low-calorie soft drinks, for [eople
who want to watch their waistlines. The latter drinks, sweetened with a chemical sugar-substitute, do not loom large in proportion
to the total soda pop sales, but they're coming up fast, bottlers report. This year's low-calorie drink sales, nationally,
are expected to run between 6 and 12 million cases. 'That's a drop in the bucket, compared with the total soft drink market...
But then, a rise from nothing to 12 million cases, for a brand new type of product in one year, is something you can't laugh off.'"---
"Soda Pop Surge: Bottlers Expect 1953 Sales of Fizzy Drinks to Set a New Record," Wall Street Journal, July 15, 1953 (p. 1)
[1952]
Records of the US Patent & Trademark Office confirm Kirsh No-Cal soft drink was
introduced to the American public March 3, 1952. The earliest ad we find was published in the New York Times touted:
"No-Cal...Turning the town upside down! Absolutely non-fatteneng. Ginger Ale-Cola-Cream Soda-Black Cherry-Root Beer. Everybody's
wild about the lively taste of No-Cal. No-Cal means no calories, No trace of sugar whatsoever, All the flavor is in-all of the
sugar is out, Three full glasses to each 16 oz. bottle, Perfect as an extra-dry mixer. Insist on No-Cal, the original non-fattening
soft drink with the revolutionary new sweetening discovery. Made only by Kirsch, famous for over 50 years for quality
beverages. Buy 16 oz. bottles, 2 for 29 cents, no deposit. Thrills Your Taste!...Trims Your Waist!" (April 7, 1953 p. 15)
"To Hyman Kirsch, Simferopol in Russia's Crimea seems no further from Brooklyn than No-Cal is from the soft drink syrups he compounded there before the turn of the
century. No-Cal is a soft drink brand which is described as the fastest growing in its field...No-Cal is made in a half-dozen flavors, none of which contains sugar...Devising
No-Cal came from a kindly thought. When Hyman Kirsch came from Simferopol to Brooklyn in 1903 he prospered in the manufacture of ginger ale and soda opo. By the time
he became a vice president of the Jewish Sanitarium for Chronic Disease is on Morris had joined him in the business in 1923 and became later a director of the
sanitarium. Both of them were worried about the number of diabetics in the home who could find no sugar-free, non-alcoholic beverage. They got together in their own
laboratories with Dr. S.S. Epstein, their research man, and explored the field of synthetic sweeteners. Saccharin and other chemical sweeteners left a metallic aftertasted.
Then, from a commercial laboratory, they got cyclamate calcium, and No-Cal was accepted by the diabetic and those with cardio-vascular illnesses who could not
tolerate salts in the sanitarium. The drink was introduced modestly in the New York market, chiefly on dietict counters. But there were more sales than there were
dieters. A survey by Grey Advertising Agency, Inc., which has the account, revealed that only half the buyers of No-Cal were on a diet. So the campaign was aimed
at the girth-conscious men and women: the budget was quintupled...and No-Cal was off."
[1953]
According to the records of the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office, Diet-Rite low calorie beverage was introduced to the
American public by Nehi, December 22, 1953:
"Word Mark DIET-RITE Goods and Services IC 005. US 045. G & S: DIETETIC SOFT DRINKS AND CONCENTRATES FOR MAKING THE
SAME. FIRST USE: 19531222. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19531222 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 71659080
Filing Date January 6, 1954 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Change In Registration CHANGE IN REGISTRATION HAS
OCCURRED Registration Number 0600085 Registration Date December 28, 1954 Owner (REGISTRANT) NEHI CORPORATION
CORPORATION DELAWARE 10TH STREET AND 9TH AVE. COLUMBUS GEORGIA (LAST LISTED OWNER) ROYAL CROWN COMPANY,
INC. CORPORATION BY CHANGE OF NAME FROM DELAWARE 900 King Street Rye Brook NEW YORK 10573 Assignment Recorded
ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Attorney of Record Daniel Chung, Esq. Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL Affidavit Text SECT 15.
SECTION 8(10-YR) 20050110. Renewal 3RD RENEWAL 20050110 Live/Dead Indicator LIVE"
"Nehi Corp., a widely diversified soft drink maker...has entrenched its Royal Crown Cola in several key markets, particularly in the South. It has also developed
low calorie drinks under the label Diet Rite,"
"Refreshing Royal Crown Beverages in handy cans...Diet Cola...3 12 oz cans, 29 cents."
"The popularity of Diet-Rite Cola, which was introduced in Chicago more than a hear ago, has inspired Nehi Royal Crown corporation to increase its line of
sugar-free carbonated drinks by adding three delicious new flavors--Diet-Rite Lime-Lemon, Diet-Rite Orange, and Diet-Rite Strawberry. As is the case with
Diet-Rite Cola, each large half-quart bottle of the newcomers contains less than three calories, the Royal Crown people tell us. Ths certainly should be welcome
news for weight watchers and dieters. Besides, the new drinks are so delightful in taste, full of zest, and naturally good that they should appeal to children as well as
adults...The economically-priced Diet-Rite drinks, which come in tall, slim returnable bottles, are available in a rainbow Pak of six bottles, two of each flavor.
Or, if you prefer, you can mix and match to make up a carton of your own selection."
"Drink gingerale without adding pounds. And root beer, cream soda and cola too, for that matter, That's the beauty of a new line of
sugar-free beverages, introduced on the market this week by Cott Co. Absolutely non-fattening, the six different flavors
taste just like the calorie-heavy kind. At supermarkets and chain stores."
"Now available...non-fattening in six naturally wonderful flavors. Not one bit fattening! Yet delicios flavor-quality, in all 6 popular flavors. That's Cott Sugar-Free
beverages! You know Cott quality, from Cott beverages with sugar...Now you can enjoy this same famous quality, but ALL FLAVOR...NO SUGAR!...No fear
of adding weight, or breaking your diet. Cott quality may cost a little more, but you know why at first TASTE. Now--enjoy yourslef, with these delicious new
dietetic treats."
"The so-called dietetick or nonfattening, dirnks have sprung up in considerable numbers duinr the past year. They're marketed
primarily by their substition of an artficial sweetenr for sugar, and they're sold mostly in fruit flavors. Most brands are marketed
in no-return bottles encaining nearly a p;int and retailing at 15 cents each. Though saccharin-sweetened drinks have been tried
wtih more or less success for many years, today's types of dietetics first got rolling in New York and New England markets in
early 1952. Most of them use calcium cyclamate, procuded by Abbott Laboratories, Noerth Chicago, under the name 'Sucaryl.' Kirsch
Beverages, Inc., Brooklyn N.Y., with its 'no-Cal',' and Cott Beverage Corp., New Haven Conn., with 'Cott Low Calorie
Beverages,' are among pioneers in the field. John J. Cott, preseident, says his firm will turn out 2.5 million cases of low-calorie
drinks this year, and expects to increast that by more than 10% next year. Within a month, Cott will introduce in Connecticut a
new 26-ounce 'family size' low-calorie drink. It will retail for 25 cents in a no-return bottle. Kirsch Beverages refuses to give
case figures, but Morris Kirsch, president, says his 'No-Cal' business in two years has spurted well haead of its 50-year-old
regular soft drink line. Tested in five new markets this year, No-Cal will be marketed in '30 or 40 cities' next year...All the
dietetics are still encountering difficulty with some state food laws that ban artificially-sweetened soft drinks. Cott is
curently engaged inlitigation in Pennsylvania to open that state's markets to its low-calorie line."
[1963]
"The nation's calorie-counting citizens have suddenly seemed to capture the attention of the major soft drink producers. Both Coca-Cola and Pepsi Cola this week
have put two major new low-calorie soft drink products into test markets, and the other new products are in the offing. Pepsi-Cola Company is testing its new
drink, Patio Diet Cola, in Greenville, S.C., and seems to be beaming its campaign mainly at the feminine market...If all goes well, Pepsi-Cola will move its new
product into Philadelphia and Pennsauken, N.J., early in March for additional testing. Meanwhile, Pepsi's arch rival, Coca-Cola, has low calorie plans of its own.
The company has started testing a sugarless soft drink called Tab in Springfield, Mass. Tab tastes very much like Coca-Cola, officials say, it contains only 2 calories
in each 12-ounce bottle...J. Paul Austin, president of Coca-Cola, notes that low-calorie soft drinks have not as yet proved popular among the steady consumers
of soft drinks. But, in his view, introduction of Tab might open the way to a new market that has not as yet been fully exploited by soft drink companies."
LO LO (HOFFMAN BEVERAGE)
According to the records of the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office Lo Lo brand diet soda was introduced by the Hoffman
Beverage Company February 11, 1963:
"...[Hoffman Beverage Company] was independetly owned until December, 1945, when the Pabst Brewing Company acquired it. Pabst sold it in 1961 to a group
headed by Mr. Sealfon...While a subsidiary of Pabst, the company in 1954 introduced "Tap-A-Cola" in a 12-ounce flat-top can. It was the second company to
can a cola but the first to bring it out in a flat-top container. A year before, C & C Super Cola Corporation packaged cola in a conical-top can. In 1963, while
under the direction of the Sealfon group, Hoffman introduced Lo-Lo Cola, a dietitic drink. It is best known for club soda, ginger ale and a complete line of flavored
sodas sold in bottles or cans."
Need more information? "Sweet Nothing, the Triumph of Diet Soda",
Benjamin Seigel, [American Heritage].
Related beverage? Carnation Instant Breakfast.
Iced tea was mass marketed to the general public at the 1904 Exposition in St. Louis (as were
many other foods we now consider popular) but it was not invented there. Food history of full of
lore and interesting stories that upon closer examination are not always supported by facts. This is
the jist of the 1904 story (note the word 'debuted' is used rather than 'invented'):
"Iced tea debuted in 1904 at the Louisiana State Purchase Exposition in St. Louis, Mo. According
to the Tea Council, "The temperature was soaring and the staff in the Far East Tea House
couldn't get any fair-goers to even look their way, let alone sample their tea. So they poured the
hot tea over ice cubes and the drink quickly became the exposition's most popular beverage."
--- Tea: a story of serendipity/U.
S. Food & Drug Administration
Facts here: "In 1949, the Post-Dispatch [newspaper] announced the 45th anniversary of the invention of iced tea in
St. Louis. When the Tea Bureau, Inc., in New York held its 1951 competition for "Miss Iced Tea," only St. Louis women could
enter the reace. The Tea Bureau was affirming the story that the Fari was, indeed, the birthplace of iced tea. Here's how the
story, as it is recorded in a number of sources, unflods: Richard Blechynden, the special commissioner from the India Tea
Association, was in the business of selling the traditional hot drink. During the hot summer of 1904, his hot tea was not exactly
in demand. So he seized the moment by sending his Singhalese waiters out with thea and ice cubes in glasses--offering a refreshing
new dinr,. Hence, the begtinning of 'iced' tea! Even the most liberal World's fair buff acknowledges that this story and the accolade
'new' attributed to this drink might be a bit exaggerated. many suggest that Blechynden did not invent the drink, but
'popularized' it, or, as some say now 're-invented' it."...Both hot and iced tea appeared on most menus at the Fair...It is
highly unlikely that all these restaurants juped on the bandwagon of Blechynden's 'new idea,' and scurried to the print shops
to have their menus reprinted!...Blechynden was hardly a desperate tea vendor! In fact, he was the highest-ranking
representative from India and the director of the East India Pavilion...His waiters were not Singhalese (from Ceylon), but were
turbaned and bearded natives of India who were clad in white and who served their customers in balcony cafes rather than on
streets...Duane Sneddeker, director of library and archives for the Missouri Historical Society in St. Louis...believes,
'It was during the post-WWII years, that St. Louisans were looking nostalgically at the 'good old days' and began lionizing some
of the stories told about the Fair.' This same time period came upon the heels of a popular 1944 movie, Meet me in St.
Louis, whic so prominently featured the 1904 World's Fair."
Iced tea is mentioned in cook books, articles and traveler's diaries at least forty years before the
Exposition that is credited for making it popular. It is possible that this beverage was first
introduced as a medicinal drink, as suggested here:
"Iced tea appeared in the United States, the creation of some anonymous individual, prior to the
Civil War. In 1860 a writer for Horace Greely's Tribune, Solon Robinson, published a
small
volume How to Live. In this appeared the sentence Last summer we got in the habit of
taking the
tea iced, and really thought it better than when hot. By 1871 the new beverage competed with
iced milk, and iced water on hot summer days at the Fifth Avenue Hotel. In New York...By 1878,
travelers found iced tea for sale on the Rock Island Railroad and a popular beverage in Sidney,
Nebraska. Cookbooks began to offer recipes for iced tea and in 1886 Senators in their
Washington offices were said to have had large coolers of it to mitigate the force of the
weather.'"
"By the 1860s American were enjoying "iced tea," which was popularized at the 1903 St. Louis
World's Fair by Richard Blechynden after finding he couldn't sell much hot tea in the summer's
heat....Instant iced tea was introduced in 1953 under the label "White Rose Redi-Tea" by the
Seeman Brothers of New York City."
"Exactly when the custom of drinking iced tea began is unknown, but it dates back at least to the
1860s, if not long before. A hot drink in vogue in the 1870s, tea a la Russe, made with sugar and
sliced lemons, was also enjoyed cold. Iced tea was also available in the 1870s in hotels and on
railroads."
A survey of iced tea recipes through time
[1884]
[1887]
[1908]
"A way to make tea owther than by steeping in boiling water is to cover the tea leaves with cold water and let them stand eight or
ten hours. The infusion will possess a different flavor. Though tea made in this way is often preferred, it is not economical, as
double the amount of tea is required to make the drink. Russian tea is made by placing a slice of lemon in each cup before pouring the
boiling hot tea. In serving use tiny tumblers instead of teacups. This is quite as palatable when cold."
"Throughout the history and prehistory of the human species, breast milk provided the major sustenance for a person's first
year of life...It was also widely used in women's healing remedies. In other words...[it] represented a significant part of the
human food economy."
"The milks of other species of mammal is one of humankind's most ancient foods--it was in fact
the most
significant single contribution of the Neolithic peoples' domestication of animals to the human
diet. Over the
millennia most species of livestock have been milked, including in various parts of the world
horses,
donkeys, camels, buffaloes, and yaks (the only major exception is the pig...), but today in the
West the
term milk, unless further qualified, is generally taken to refer to cow's milk...The word milk is
ancient too. It
can be traced back to our Indo-European ancestors, who used a verb something like *melf- for
wiping' or
stroking'. Since the action of milking involved the pulling the hand down the animal's teat, this
verb
eventually came to mean milk'. But it was the Germanic languages that picked it up, in the form
*meluks,
as a noun."
"The oldest known record of animals being kept in herds and milked is a series of cave paintings
in the
Libyan Dahara, showing milking and perhaps cheese-making too, and possibly older than 5,000
BC. The
Sumerians, around 3500 BC, and the Egyptians a few centuries later used milk and have left
reliefs and
records showing that they prepared curdled milk products."
"Domestication of cattle probably started because wild cattle were attracted to the fields of grain
grown by
early farmers and robbed these abundant supplies of food...Exactly when domestication took
place is
uncertain, but by 3000BC there is evidence for several well-defined breed in representations of
cattle from
both Mesopotamia and Egypt..."
"Although cattle have been domesticated for less than 10,000 years, they are the world's most
important
animal, as judged by their multiple contributions of draft power, meat, milk, hides, and
dung...Evidence for
the domestication of cattle dates from between 8,000 and 7,000 years ago in southwestern Asia.
Such
dating suggests that cattle were not domesticated until cereal domestication had taken place,
whereas
sheep and goats entered the barnyard of humans with the beginning of agriculture...As with sheep
and
goats, the process of domesticating cattle resulted in animals smaller than the wild progenitor.
Dated
osteological material from Neolithic sites establishes the transition from wild to
domesticated...The Fertile
Crescent has long been considered the place of initial cattle domestication, but that view tends to
reflect the
large number of excavations made there. Early signs of Neolithic cattle keeping have also been
found in
Anatolia (Turkey), where the osteological material at Catal Huyuk provides evidence of the
transition from
the auruchs of 8,400 years ago to cattle by 7,800 years ago. In short, it is still premature to
specify where
the first cattle were domesticated...Westward diffusion of cattle throughout Europe was tied to
the invention
of the wooden plow. The harnessing of a powerful animal to that device made it possible to
greatly extend
cultivation without a corresponding increase in human population..."
"The second unlooked-for benefit of animal domestication...was milk. The fact that animals
suckled their
young...must have been known from the earliest times, but the full value (and volume) of the milk
that
animals could be induced to supply to their new masters must have come as a revelation. Milk
being highly
perishable...a few hours would be enough to start it fermenting in the climate of the Near East.
Depending
upon the temperature and the kind of bacteria in the air, the curds might develop into something
pleasant
and refreshing, or something quite uneatable even by Neolithic peoples...Throughout much of
history, and
especially in hot climates, milk has always been most used in one or other of its soured or
fermented
forms."
"Archeologists excavating lake dwellings on the banks of Lake Neuchatel have found potsherds
pierced
with holes which date back to at least six thousand years BC. They conclude that these vessels
could have
been drainers for separating curds from whey...What kind of milk might the ancient lake-dwellers
have
been processing in this way?...Although domestication of goats and sheep was beginning to
change the
way of life of the Mediterranean peoples at this period, we do not yet know if they had reached
the stage of
milking the animals and making dairy produce to keep. Cows did not appear on the Alpine scene
until after
the Roman conquest of the Valais 53 centuries later...Noah's descendant Abraham, very rich in
cattle'
presented to him by Pharaoh, gave butter, and milk, and the calf which he had 'dressed' to the
three angels
who came to visit him (Genesis 18, viii). We can roughly situate that possible existing of the
father of the
Jewish nation in the second millennium BC...A kind of strip cartoon depiction on a polychrome
Sumerian
fresco of 2500BC....gives some idea of the methods used. It shows cows with their calves, still
not very far
from the primitive aurochs cattle, being milked by peasants on both sides of the gates of a
corral...The milk
is put into large, carefully cleaned jars...Goats and sheep will adapt easily to any climate and
browse on any
kind of weed; goats will eat most prickly plants as well. They long supplied most of the milk that
was drunk
or made in to butter and cheese. Cattle, worked to the bone as draught animals, provided hardly
any. We
may assume that the Babylonian cows gave milk only at calving time, whent they were enjoying a
repite
from work. Virgil does not seem very keen on cow's milk, at least, he recommends its use only for
rearing
calves."
"Milk had an unusual status as a food item in the classical world, because milk, as such, will not
keep (without the use of refrigeration or other modern techniques). So the drinking of fresh milk
was a luxury shared by farmers and nomadic shepherds with those in cities and royal courts who
were rich enough to pay for express delivery...Aristotle observes that sheep, goats and cows all
produce more milk than is needed for their own offspring. These were the sources of most of the
milk that Greeks and Romans used; mare's milk and ass's milk were also sometimes used. The
milk of any of these five animals might be used as an ingredient in kykeon [a magical and
medicinal drink]. Aristotle also refers to the drinking of camel's milk. Much of the milk that
domestic animals produced was turned into cheese, a far more stable substance and an excellent
food. Both milk and cheese were typical foods of shepherds."
"Neither milk nor butter occurs among the lists of ingredients required by cooks in classical Greek
comedy scenes. Milk is called for, incidentally, in only three of the Roman recipes of Apicius. In a
pre-technological age milk, gala, was available as a beverage only to those who lived close to the
land. Hence, in Greek literature, milk-drinking is a mark of the pastoral peoples who did not, like
the Greeks themselves, live in towns."
"Sheep and goats were introduced into Britain by the first farmers. They may have brought cows
and pigs
with them as well, and in any case they must soon have begun to tame the native wild stock.
Cattle were
the most important animals in neolithic Britain, as their bones are far more numerous than those
of other
livestock on contemporary habitation sites...About 250 BC Britain's climate became drier and
warmer, and
animals could survivie more easily in the open...Cows supplied milk as well a meat, though the
lactation
period was much shorter than now."
"Milk played a part in the diet of the people of Britain from the time when the first neolithic
farmers brought
their domestic cows, sheep and goats into the coutry. At that period cow milk was the kind most
often
drunk; for cows, which could live off the leaves of the forest that covered almost the whole
country, far
outnumbered the grazing animals. Over several hundreds of years some parts of the woodland
were
gradually cleared, and by Bronze Age times there was more open terrain in which sheep and goats
could
be kept. Ewes, like cows, were milked; so also were she-goats."
"The pattern of animal husbandry changed only very slowly through the years following the
Norman
Conquest. But eventually the number of cattle on the manors rose as cow's milk came to be
preferred to
ewe's milk."
"The milking of ewes was abandoned altogether by some farmers in the sixteenth century on the
grounds that
it took too much of the animal's strength...Ewe's milk was given up reluctantly, for it was thought,
at least by
some people, 'to be fulsome, sweet and such in taste that no man will gladly yield to live and feed
withal'...Milk and milk products were useful adjuncts to the cuisine of the gentry, and enriched
certain of
their dishes...The peasant's cow was his commonwealth, providing him and his family with
butter, cheese,
whey, curds, cream, sod (boiled) milk, raw-milk, sour-milk, sweet-milk, and butter-milk'...The
well-to-do
rarely consumed milk in its raw state, for it was known to curdle in the stomach, and was though
to
engender wind there..."
Chocolate milk
Our survey of U.S. patent records and New York Times articles suggests commmerial pre-made chocolate milk products
probably originated in local dairies. It may be very difficult to pinpoint which company was first to offer chocolate
milk to its customers. Local dairies did not generally seek (nor did they need) national trademark protection. The
earliest chocolate milk products we find registered with the US PTO are from the 1920s.
Bottled chocolate drinks (Yoo Hoo was one of the first) were introduced during Prohibition.
[1922]
Word Mark YOO-HOO Goods and Services IC 032. US 045. G & S: NONALCOHOLIC MALTLESS BEVERAGE SOLD AS A SOFT DRINK. FIRST
USE: 19220703. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19220703 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED FORM
Design Search Code Serial Number 71539343 Filing Date October 28, 1947 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A
Registration Number 0507891 Registration Date March 22, 1949 Owner (REGISTRANT) OLIVIERI, NATOLE DBA YOO-HOO CHOCOLATE
BEVERAGE CO. INDIVIDUAL UNITED STATES NO. 113 FARNHAM AVENUE GARFIELD NEW JERSEY. (LAST LISTED OWNER) YOO-HOO CHOCOLATE
BEVERAGE CORP. CORPORATION BY MERGER WITH NEW JERSEY 600 COMMERCIAL AVENUE CARLSTADT NEW JERSEY 07072
[1925]
[1928]
[1930]
[1930]
[1934]
[1935]
[1949]
[1953]
[1962]
[1970]
[1983]
[1993]
Related quaffable? Cocoa.
Lowfat milk
"The cholesterol wars arrived several generations after three strategic developments that don't do much for cause of good plain milk but would enable the industry to
reinvent itself under fire. In the end, these bits of technical progress would give dairy processors the tools for taking Nature's Perfect Food apart-the really decisive
factor-putting it back together with selling points that nature hadn't thought of. The first break through, in the 1880s, was the mechanical separation of cream by
centrifuge, far more thorough than any hand skimming. The next came in 1890, when a University of Wisconsin dairy chemist invented the eponymous Babcock
test for measuring the precise fat content in milk-at the time, the chief indicator of quality. These two advances led to intense growth in the butter industry, which
became the most lucrative destination for milk. The third crucial achievement was homogenization, or the technique of crushing milkfat globules into droplets too
small to rise to the surface in a cream layer. Homogenization had to overcome several obstacles before it could be coupled with the first two advances. It disrupted
the chemical structure of the milkfat so drastically as to release a torrent of enzymes that promptly turned raw milk rancid. Even when dairy chemists learned to
sidestep rancidity by combining the steps of pasteurizing (which inactivated the enzymes) and homogenizing, there remained the age-old consumer habit of judging
milk by its richness-i.e. the thickness of the cream layer on top. When packaging in glass bottles came in toward the start of the twentieth century, one of its
advantages from a buyer's point of view was the plainly visible 'creamline.' The fact that homogenized milk in glass tended to acquire an unpleasant oxidized flavor
on exposure to light more rapidly than creamline milk was another strike against it. As a result, until shortly after World War II few people saw any reason to want
homogenized milk. Milk for drinking was almost without exception available in only two degrees of richness: with or without all the original fat. Skim milk, or what
was left when the cream was separated for other purposes, was the ugly sister. Health experts warned mothers that it was paltry stuff, deficient in crucial nutrients.
(Most state required that it be fortified with vitamin A to replace the fat-soluble beta-carotene that disappeared along with the cream; this step is still mandatory for
fat-free and most reduced-fat milk.) At the nation's creameries skim milk was an unvalued by-product, often dumped for lack of any profitable use. As early as the
late 1930s a few dairy processors had been trying to win people over to homogenized milk. The turning point came with a postwar shift to opaque paper or
cardboard containers in place of returnable milk bottles. This in turn accompanied another shift away from home delivery and toward supermarket purchases of
milk..."From the '60s or '70s on, hasty public health re-education campaigns sought to convert consumers to 'the less, the better' attitudes regarding fat percentages
in milk, with zero being the new ideal. Zero was easily attainable through centrifuging, but centrifuged skim milk lacked the flavor-saving smidgin of cream that
remained in the milk after hand skimming. Some people uncomplainingly adopted zero-fat milk; many more balked. The milk-processing industry eventually arrived
at a spectrum of products starting with 0 percent milkfat milk and progressing through various homogenized gradations of fat content: .05 percent (officially
'low-fat'), 1 percent, 1.5 percent, and 2 percent (these last three 'reduced fat').All quickly acquired fan clubs that are now an entrenched part of American culture.
For a long time the hardest sell remained skim milk, and for good reason: The usual commercial versions are a singularly thin, vapid travesty of decent
hand-skimmed milk. But eventually processors hit on the stratagem of using dried skim milk solids to add body and selling the result under names like 'Skim Milk
Plus.'.""
"Milk, that all-American food, is taking on some all-American names--like "fat free," "reduced fat" and "light." Starting Jan. 1, 1998, the labeling of fat-reduced
milk products will have to follow the same requirements the Food and Drug Administration established almost five years ago for the labeling of just about every other
food reduced in fat. From now on:
2 percent milk will become known, for example, as "reduced fat" or "less fat" instead of "low fat"
1 percent milk will remain "low fat" or become, for example, "little fat"
skim will retain its name or be called, for example, fat-free, zero-fat, or no-fat milk.
Also, the regulations that implement the labeling changes give dairy processors more leeway to devise new formulations. As a result, consumers may see a broader
range of milk and other dairy products, including "light" milk with at least 50 percent less fat than whole, or full-fat, milk and other reformulated milks with reduced
fat contents but greater consumer appeal."
SKIM MILK
During WWII skim milk flooded the American market in both liquid and dried forms. For obvious reasons. For the first time, commercial dairies & government
agencies combined forces by actively promoted this particular dairy option as healthy and "all American." Folks farming Victory Gardens gladly gulped skim milk.
Once the War was over, middle-class suburban baby-boomers fed their babies gallon after gallon of whole milk. In the 1960s-1970s the skim milk phoenix rose
again. This time the product was marketed as a healthy alternative to the regular fat-filled variety. Thus initiating the long parade of low-fat grades we encounter
today. In sum? If you're looking for an example of how a particular food has been used to promote political agenda, you'd be hard pressed to find a better
specimen than skim milk.
ENGLISH LANGUAGE EVIDENCE The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) traces the first print evidence connecting the verb skim with the noun milk to the 15th century:
The OED dates the print term "skim milk" in our language to 1596:
[1875]
"A construction of the Butter and Cheese law of Illinois, passed in 1869, has been given by the State Supreme Court. The Chicago Tribune says that it settles the
legal status of 'skim-milk,' as the housewives called it. There are a great many uses to which this article of dairy refuse may be put, as milk consumer in large cities
can testify to their sorrow, but there is a point where the watery stuff ceases to be legal tender. While a farmer, accroding to the decision, may skim the milk on the
top, bottom, and edge, and strip it of the last globule of cream when he sells it to a cheese manufacturer who does business on his own account, he must deliver
the square article just as the cow yields it when it goes to a co-operative factory. The law was evidently enacted more for the benefit of the milk-producer than of
the manufacturer, as, but the decision of the Supreme Court, its penalties operate only to prevent dairymen from swindling each other, leaving the rest of the
commmunity to look out for themselves."
[1881]
"Milkmen have suffered more annoyance and trouble from the [New York City] Board of Health than all other classes in the community put together. The action of
the Board of Health has caused the milkmen to lose their self-resepct and the respect of the community at large...We have been searched, as though we were
common criminals, and our propert [skim-milk] confiscated and destroyed. For ever child that has died in the city, unless it was struck by lightning or a lager-beer
wagon, we are in some way held responsible...We don't claim..that skim-milk contains as much nourishment as full cream milk, nor do we ask that we may obtain
the same price for it. But...we do claim the right to sell it as skim-milk. Skim -milk is preferable to cream or full-cream milk as a drink. Thousands of children are
born in this City every year of inexperienced mothers. Such children are often sickly and need bracing up in order to rear them to manhood and womanhood. A
child is given milk, and in the weak condition of its stomache it throws off the curd that forms. The mother rushes for the doctor, and he at once attacks the milkman
as the cause of the trouble...We have cheap groceries, cheap dry goods, cheap labor, and each has its place in our community. Why not, then, have cheap
milk?..the existing Sanitary Code resulted in the loss of 100,000 quarts of milk daily to the dairyman..."
[1942]
"Greater production of dried milk will help win the war...The report...says that 61,000,000 quarts daily of separated milk, now of limited commercial value, could
be turned into an asset...'No other single food of comparable cost can match dried skim milk in the quantities of calcium, protein and phosphorus found in a quart
of this powdered milk.'...'The many demands at present for casein temporarily complicate the problem and, if the American people would awaken to the value of
dried separated or skimmed milk, production would have to be stepped up very materially."
[1948]
"Though dry skim milk may not sound particularly enticing, it has been the outstanding news in this column in 1948. Directions for using it in a whipped topping and
frozen desserts were the most popular offered this year...The idea of making a creamless 'ice cream' with dried sim milk was conceived by Mrs. Ruth P.
Casa-Emellos, the Times' home economist. High in nutrients, especially calcium, and low in calories and cost, this is a smooth-textured dessert that tastes just as
rich as standard ice cream."
[1954]
"There is magic in milk these days. A powder has appeared that, when combined with water, gives a liquid-mik instantly in a kind of presto-chango process. This
immediately soluble powder is the latest edition of that familiar product, dry skim milk, or as it is technically termed, non-fat dry milk soluble. Up until now, home
cooks could only reconstitute dehydrated milk with water by vigorous agitation. The fact that dry skim milk now dissolves as readily as soluble coffee obviously
makes it easier to use and thus stengthens its appeal. The wider and stronger the appeal the better, say those concerned with family health, because dry skim milk is
high in nutrients, low in cost--the thriftiest form available of a food that is indispensable in the American diet. Three manufacturers, now turning out instantly soluble
dry skim milk, are trying with all speed to achieve national distrubution. They are the Borden Comapany, the Carnation Company and the Pet Milk Company...The
new milk, like the older product, is one of the most economical sources of protein on the market; its protein is of the same high quality as that found in meat, poultry
and fish...Skim milk is such a stock part of any reducing diet that it may seem a bit obvious to insert, by way of reminder, that the dry product is very low in
calories...How does the liquified milk taste? If chilled, it is comparable to fresh skim milk. Those accustomed to whole milk find the skim product, whether or not it
was derived from a dehydrated powder, a little sweet."
[1964]
"Consumer use of skim milk continues to increase at a much sharper rate than that of whole milk. The Agriculture Department reports that sales of skim milk in 83
major fluid markets of the country in the first six months of this year were 12 percent above those of a year earlier.'"
[1991]
"All that the scientists at the Electric Power Research Institute were trying to do was find a way to conserve power in the dairy industry. But, inadvertantly, they may
have developed a process that makes skim milk taste like whole milk. Instead of heating milk to drive off water to produce concentrate or powder, as is usually
done, institute researchers and representatives of the Dairy Research Foundation called it. Some of the water formed ice crystals, which were filtered out. The
resulting concentrate was reconstituted by adding water. The researchers were surprised to find that the resulting skim milk tasted better than normal skim milk.
'We put the water back in, and it tasted like whole milk.'...According to officials of the institute, freezing is a more energy-efficient means of concentrating milk and
other dairy products than heat evaporation."
ABOUT MILK
RECOMMENDED READING:
Related foods? Yogurt & ice cream.
"To twentieth-century drinkers a julep is a product of the Deep South of the USA...a strong but refreshing mixture of Kentucky
bourbon or rye whiskey and sugar, poured over ice, and flavoured typically with sprigs of fresh mint. It was not always so,
however. Originally, a julep was any sweet syrupy drink, often one used as a vehicle for medictine (William Buchan's Domestic
Medicine (1789) mentions 'cordial julep, expectorating juelp and misk julep'). In that sense, the term has long since passed
into limbo, but it may survive dialectally in the slightly altered from jollop, 'medicine'. The word julep comes via
Arabic julab from Persian gulab, which meat literally 'rose-water.'"
"Mint Julep. A cocktail made from bourbon, sugar, and mint. It is a classic drink of Kentucky and is traditionally served at the
running of the Kentucky Derby on the first Saturday in May. The word first appeared printed in John Davis's Travels of Four Years and a Half
in the United States (1803) as a 'dram of spiritous liquor that has mint in it, taken by Virginians in the morning.' The
origin of the word 'julep'...indicates a very sweet concoction known since the fifteenth century. Mint juleps were known in the
United States by the end of the eighteenth cedntury, long before bourbon became the ingredient most associated with the
drink, and one will find mint juleps made with whiskeys other than bourbon, though this would be heresy in the state of Kentucky,
where there is also great debate as to whether the mint leaves should be crushed in the traditional silver mug."
"Americans in Virginia, according to Richard Barksdale Harwell, the author of The Mint Julep, added spirits in 1878 and mint
in 1803 and originated the mint julep. Deciding that the English might like this new version, Captain Frederick Marryat, who had been traveleing
in America, reintroduced the mint julep to the English in 1837. Marryat noted that the mint julep is 'one of the most
delightful and insinuating potations that ever was invented.' The first mint julep recipes called for brandy or rum, but local
whiskey, frequently home-distilled rye or bourbon soon became the spirits of choice. Charles Joseph Latrobe, who described the mint
julep in 1833 at a meeting of the Anti-Temperance Society in Saratoga, Florida, declared the mint must be unbruised. Jerry
Thomas, in How to Mix Drinks, which was published in 1862, called for bruising the mint. The issue is still being
debated. Both Latrobe and Thomas called for filling a tumbler or glass with shaved ice. Preparation of mint julep is seeped in
ceremony and is a symbol of southern hospitality...Although the mint julep is appreciated throughout the South, Kentuky, proud
of its bourbon, popularized the drink in the twentieth century. The years and date are unknown, but a letter written by Judge
Soule Smith in the late nineteenth century makes clear that Kentucky bourbon should be the whiskey of choice for a mint
julep. Mint julep in a glass maked 'Kentucky Derby' was first served in the dining room at Churchill Downs, home of the derby,
in 1938."
[1803]
[1862]
188. Mint Julep
[1939]
Pendennis Club Mint Julep...Martin Cuneo has for many years manufactured his own conception of a proper mint Julep to
members of Louisville's famous Pendennis Club...There are several minor varations in the gentle art of Juleping, and his is enough off the
unusual track for inscription here--as he does not bruise mint, even slightly. Take a sixteen ounce silver Julep cup, or the same in class. Into the
bottom put a lump of sugar and dissolve it in a little spring or well water. Choose the tenderest mint sprigs and toss in
three-arranging them in the bottom, and don't crush or bruise at all. Fill the chalice with finely crushed ice. Turn in two
jiggers of the best old bourbon the cellar can afford, and stir once to settle. Add enough more ice to fill; a complete small bundle of
tender mint comes next, trimmming thes talks fairly short, so as to give out their aromatic juices into the Julep. Place in the ice, and
stand aside for a few minutes to frost and acquire general merit."
Recommended reading: The Mint Julep, Richard Barksdale Harwell, University of Virginia Press 1975. Your local public librarian can get you a
copy.]
According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the word mulled, as it applies to the culinary world, was first printed in 1607.
The word first applied to mulled wine, defined: "Of ale, wine, cider, etc.: Made into a sweetened and spiced hot drink and
sometimes thickened with beaten yolk of egg."
"Hot spiced wine, often called "mulled wine," is typically made by simmering red, and occasionally white, wine with a mixture
of citrus (juice, slices, or zest from lemons or oranges) and virtually any combination of spices, including cinnamon,
clove, allspice, ginger, cardamom, nutmeg, or mace. Wines ranging from dry table wines to sweet ports or fortified wines
(strengthened with additional alcohol) are used...This beverage has an ancient history, stemming from early
civilization of 5000 B.C.E. (Mesopotamia and Egypt) and subserquently Greece and Rome. Wines were sometimes infused with
herbs and spices for a range of gastronomic, hallucinogenic, medicinal, religious, and preservation purposes. In medieval
Europe wine was customarily consumed as a safer, healthier alternative to often-contaminated water. In colder climates, wine and
other fermented beverages were sometimes heated to create longed-for and much-needed warmth...The introduction of tropical
spices to medieval Europe opened the door to a wide range of flavors. Wildly expensive and exotic at the same time, they were
available only to the wealthy and were used to enrich the libation hippocras, the descendant of an ancient Roman drink.
Hippocras was made from wine heated with honey, pepper, and many other spices, such as galingale (similar to ginger), and
it was often consumed as an elixir at the end of a large feast. Although it occasionally appeared later in seventeenth-century
cookbooks, it had lost most of its high status and popularity by then. By the later part of the seventeenth century, European trade
with India and the Indonesian Spice Islands had begun to flourish...These tropical spices (such as cinnamon and nutmeg) began
to replace earlier European flavorings in heated wines and dramatically changed the taste and character of the wines. In addtion,,
the British in India encountered a local spiced "paunch" (later called "punch"), a warmed beverage consisting of a fermented
drink, sugar, water, citrus, and spices...These appeared in the American colonies as mulled wine, sometimes made with
thickening raw eggs or yolks, which would be cooked by the hot wine. The resultant curdling was reminiscent of such other
period concoctions as possets, caudles, and syllabub. Many English, German, Dutch and Scandinavian emigrants who came to
America brought these long-held traditions and prepared heated and spiced libations for winter festivals, in particular,
Christmas...By the late 1800s these warmed spiced wines had become an integral part of the American Christmas menu, largely because
of the strong influence of the middle nineteenth-century novel A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens. Hot spiced wine was
frequently served alongside or in lieu of eggnog enjoyed at middle-class tables, sometimes with appropriate termperance
substitutions of fruit juice."
Want to examine 18th-19th century American "mulled" recipes? Michigan State
University's
Feeding America digital cookbooks are perfect. There you will find recipes for mulled ale, cider, jelly &
wine.
Early American cookbooks typically offer one or two recipes combining citrus fruit (typically lemons or limes) with rum and sugar. They are generally called punch. Some of these can be quite
complicated. Ingredients vary according to availability; proportions vary according to taste. Primary documents (journals, letters, inventories, account books) may
help you determine the full locus of ingredients and description of final product served in a given place by a specific
person.
Why is it called "punch? & what were the 5 original ingredients?
"Punch. The vogue for punch started in England in the early seventeenth century, imported by officers of the East India Company.
it was a traditional long drink in India, and its name is generally supposed to be of Indian origin, too. This conjecture seems to have
started with John Fryer, who in his Acccount of East India (1698) derived punch from Hindi panch meaning 'five', from the
five ingredients of the drink: sugar spirits, lemon or lime juice, water, and spices. However, in the seventeeth century the word
would have been pronounced not, as now to rhyme with lunch, but with a short "oo' sound, 'poonch', and this is not really consistent
with a borrowing from Hindi panch; so it has been speculated that it is short for puncheon, a large cask from which the
drink might have been served. The classic simplicity of the original type did not survive long; and assortment of variations was soon dreamed up,
including punch made with tea, with milk (this enjoyed a wave of popularity in the early eighteenth century), and
without any alcohol. Nowadays almost any sort of festive amalgam of drinks served in a bowl, with or without bits of fruit
swimming in it, is dignified with the name of 'punch'...One drink to maintain the tradition in the rum-based West-Indian planter's
punch..."
"Rum was the most popular distilled liquor of the [Colonial American] time. It was widely served in taverns, sold in an
assortment of measures, ranging from the gallon to the glass. The most expensive variety was imported from the West Indies (the
rum of Jamaica was especially prized); both New England and Pennsylvania, however, manufactured their own rum from imported
Island Molasses...Plain (straight) rum was identified as the drink of the working classes...Rum was also the main ingredients in
what one writer described as "a very good, pleasant and healthful drink, punch." A popular beverage, punch was considered as genteel
as imported tea. It was routinely served at every conceivable tavern event from political gatherings to the meetings of men's clubs, before
and after a meal, or during an eventing's activities...punch was a combination of then luxurious ingredients. The drink was made using the
rinds and juice of imported lemons, limes, and even oranges, commonly mixed with rum, and white or brown sugar. In some taverns,
customers paid extra for the inclusion of sugar and fruit in their drinks. Lime punch was the most popular version of the drink, and the
beverage was aptly described as "Sower punch."...Punch was also made with eggs and milk...Like some other beverages, punch was served
warm and sold in taverns by the bowl. A quart of the mix would fill about half a large punch bowl. Tavern inventories indicate that
both delft...and china...punch bowls, in large and small sizes, were used. Since delft was widely available and inexepensive,
most tavern keepers kept only a modest supply of punch bowls on hand...That punch had a special place in the tavern is also
evident from the number of silver punch strainers, punch ladles, punch spoons, and even in one cakse, silver punch bowls found
among the stocks of taverns in centers like New York, Boston, Charlestown, Philadelphia, and Williamsburg. With those exceptions,
silver rarely appears in 18th-century tavern inventories."
"Punch. Although much was said in praise of wine, more was said of punch. This was the Tidewater's standby drink.
"Punch" is the English rendering of the Hindustani paunch, meaning five, for the five ingredients --spirits, water,
sliced lemons or limes, sugar, and spice...The recipe for the immortal drink came to England from the Far east, together
with tea, root ginger, and spice, fine East Indian muslins and cashmere shawls, and other new delights, either by way of
the fourteenth-century caravan root or by sea around the Cape of Good Hope. In the Tidewater, rum from the West Indies
and brandy were the chief ingredients of punch...A bowl of punch was the planters' most companionable drink. Many a
political strategy was hatched, many a long evening of pleasure was spent with a small punch bowl at each right elbow. The
punch made by one of Williamsburg's tavernkeepers, Henry Wetherburn, figures in a story that is still remembered today.
In May 1736, after planter William Randolph agreed to sell some of his farm land to Thomas Jefferson's father, he insisted
on Henry Wetherburn's "biggest bowl of Arrack punch" to seal the bargain."
"[A rum punch]
"Orange Punch
"Milk Punch
"Italian Punch.
"Tea Punch
Recommended reading: Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl/David Wondrich
Related beverages? Shrub & cordials.
The history of root beer begins with small beer (low alcohol content). These products, often
brewed with roots of medicinal plants, contained small amounts of alcohol. They were considered
health beverages in centuries past. In the 18th and early 19th century, home-made beer composed
of roots (spruce, most notably) commonly appeared in American cook books. Ginger beer was
also popular. By the second half of the 19th century, soft drinks (seltzer, flavored seltzer, soda)
were introduced and marketed as health food products. Root beer was a perfect fit. Food
historians tell us root beer was produced in quantity for public sale in 1876.
According to the Oxford English Dictionary (2nd edition), the earliest print reference to
"root beer" was published in 1843. Nathaniel Hawthorne mentions both "root beer" and "ginger
beer" in his House of Seven Gables" [1851].
"Now a sweet soft drink flavored with a mixture of herbal essences, root beer was originally a real
beer and a tonic health drink. Small beers, or low-alcohol beers carbonated by the action of
yeasts, have been traditional and nutritious drinks for children, women, and the elderly in England
and Europe for centuries. Although many of these small beers were flavored with ginger or
lemon, another common flavoring and one popular for its antiscurvey properties was that of the
bark of spruce or birch trees. When colonists arrived in North America, they found new varieties
of the traditional spruce and birch for their beers, but discovered Native Americans using such
novel flavorings as the roots of sarsaparilla (Smilax ornata) and sassafras (Sassafras albidum) as
well. Both of these were similar to spruce and birch in taste, and the colonists soon learned to use
them in their small beer, often with molasses as a sweetener and fermenting agent. Exactly when
sweetened small beer made with various roots was first called "root beer" is unknown. One of the
earliest mentions is in Dr. Chase's Recipes from 1869...In 1876, Charles E. Hires, who claimed to
have invented root beer, began marketing packets of the herbal ingredients necessary to make "the
Greatest Health-Giving Beverage in the World" at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. This
kit for making root beer was supposed to contain sixteen roots, herbs, barks, and berries,
including sassafras, the dominant flavoring, and required home fermentation with yeast. In 1884
Hires decided consumers would be more interested in an easier-to-use product and began selling a
liquid concentrate and soda fountain syrup, as well as bottled root beer."
"By 1819 a patent was issued for "carbonated mead," and in 1824 one for sarsaprilla..."Birch
beer" came along in the 1880s to compete with Philadelphian druggist Charles E. Hires's "Herb
Tea," later changed to "Root Beer" (a previously common term for soda flavored with various
roots and herbs). Hires had first made the beverage in 1875, advertised it as "the National
Temperance Drink" and first served it at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Exposition."
A sampler of American root beer recipes
[1831]
[1838]
[1869]
[1925]
Shrub was a popular colonial-era cordial
made from the juice of a citrus fruit (often raspberries, cherries, lemons or oranges),
rum, and sugar. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, archaic spelling
variations sometimes began with "sch." Fruit-based vinegars were similarly
composed. Shrub is related to sherbet.
"Shrub has now had its day, but in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries it was a
popular drink made from a spirit (usually rum), sugar, and orange or lemon juice...The
word comes from Arabic shurb beverage, 'drink', and is related to English sherbert,
sorbet, and syrup."
"Shrub was another such drink, with an Arabic name
denoting a middle eastern origin. It first became popular in the early eighteenth century and was made with brandy, lemon juice
and peel, sugar and white wine. Later rum-shrub became very usual; and there were also fancy shrubs flavoured with ground almonds
or currant juice."
"Recipes for shrub, an alcoholic version of sherbet, were also developed [in the 18th century]. The following comes from Eliza
Smith's Compleat Houswife. Although first published in 1727, it probably reflects culinary practices some decades earlier:
'To make shrub
Take two quarts of brandy, and put it in a large bottle, adding to it the juice of five lemons, the peels of two, and half a
nutmeg; stop it up and let it stand three days, and add to it three pints of white wine, a pound and a half of sugar; mix it,
strain it twice through flannel, and bottle it up; it is a pretty wine, and a cordial'."
"Old World fruits were introduced in America by European settlers in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries...Beginning in the
nineteenth century, the most common way of serving fruit juice was with added sugar and water in the form of
"ades," such as appleade, lemonade, orangeade...Fruit juices also were cooked with a large quantity of sugar and preserved for
future use, mainly for use in cooking and baking. In addition, juices were fermented into flavorful vinegars, and they were used
in alcoholic and temperance beverages, including shrubs, which were composed of fruit juice plus spirits or vinegar."
Typical early American
shrub recipe [1803].
Compare the 1803 recipe for shrub with these 1824 recipes for raspberry cordial and
raspberry vinegar:
"Raspberry cordial.
"Raspberry vinegar.
Related beverages: punch, switchel & cordials.
Although fruit and ice/ice cream/milk/sorbet/yogurt blended combinations have been around for
hundreds of years, culinary historians generally agree that smoothies are a product of the 20th
century, though they can't quite agree which decade. There is no single person or
company credited for inventing the smoothie. In fact? There is no single recipe for it either. In
many places smoothies are promoted as health foods. Are they really? They can be. It all depends
upon the indgredients.
According to the smoothie experts (cookbooks, articles, industry Web sites) a true smoothie is
usually a milk-based product. This is part (calcium/protein) of what is supposed to make this drink
healthy. In Mexico and Latin America *Licuado* is the popular local word for smoothie (milk &
fruit based health drink). It does seem to imply a milk-base. According to the Cassell's Spanish
Dictionary, the word *licuado* (in its purest sense) simply means *liquefy,* as is put in the
blender. It does not imply specific ingredients or a particular recipe.
"Old world fruits were introduced in America by European settlers in the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries...Apples, lemons, and oranges were the main juice fruits, but currants,
grapes, peaches, pinapples, plums, raspberries, and strawberries were also used for juice.
Beginning
in the nineteenth century, the most common way of serving fruit juice was with added sugar and
water in the form of "ades," such as appleade, lemonade, orangeade, and strawberryade. These
juices were sometimes served ice-cold and called "sherbet." For a lighter drink, a few spoonfuls of
these sweetened juices were stirred into cold water. By the nineteenth century, a wide range of
fruit juices were used to flavor ice cream and soda fountain drinks...In the home, fruit was juiced
by hand until 1930, when the first commercial juicing machine was marketed by Norman
Walker, who encouraged a diet of raw food and juices. Juicing became popular in America during
the 1970s. Smoothies, thick drinks consisting of fresh fruit blended with milk, yogurt, or ice
cream, became popular in the 1980s. Juice bars, which frequently serve smoothies, were launched
in the early 1990s in health food stores and quickly evolved into major independent
businesses."
"Juice bars, a billion-dollar business, began modestly in 1926 in Los Angeles when Julius Freed
opened a shop selling fresh orange juice. His real estate agent, Bill Hamlin, a former chemist,
suggested an all-natural mixture that gave the orange juice a creamy, foamy consistency. It
contained orange juice, water, egg whites, vanilla extract, sugar and ice. When Freed and Hamlin
started selling the new beverage, sales soared from twenty dollars to one hundred dollars a day,
and then name for the product arose from the way customers asked for the drink: "Give me an
orange, Julius." By 1929 Orange Julius had grown into a chain with one hundred stores in the
United States. The macrobiotic vegetarianism fad of the mid-1960s stirred up the juice-bar
business with the creation of smoothies, originally a mixture of fruit, fruit juice, and ice cold in the
back of health-food restaurants and stores. Steve Kuhnau started a health-food store in 1973,
offering nutritious energy-packed smoothies as an alternative to the ubiquitious high-fat food of
New Orleans and to help resolve his own health problems. In 1987 Kuhnau and his wife Cindy,
co-founded one fo the major smoothie companies, Smoothie King Franchises Inc. A competitor,
Jamba Juice Company, bagan in 1990 in California as a store that offered fresh-fruit
smoothies...Bt the end of the twentieth century, regional and independent juice bars had sprouted
up across the country...Mobile smoothie stations in carts and kiosks make the drinks even more
available and less expensive to purvey...Many dessert-style smoothies contain milk; ice cream or
ice milk; yogurt or frozen yogurt; sorbet; or soy, rice, or nut milk. Nutritional supplements may be
added."
"Though Kuhnau created Smoothie King and the 20 trademarked drinks sold at Smoothie King
stores, he didn't actually invent the smoothie, a generic name for a non-alcoholic blended fruit
drink. It was born in the counterculture health food stores of southern Califomia in the 1950s and
exists in a variety of forms at different health food stores around the country today."
"The smoothie has been around since the 1960s, though its resurgence has been just since the 80s
when the modern sports and fitness craze began to catch on. Today, it is common to drink a
smoothie as a power drink or as a meal replacement. In doing so, it's important to remember that
adding supplements can give your smoothie that extra punch for energy. Jamison Starbuck,
herbalist for Better Nutrition and practicing naturopathic physician says, "As a physician, I think
smoothies with soy protein are a great energy alternative to high-fat traditional breakfasts like
bacon and eggs." Whether you drink yours for breakfast or have it as a snack, the following five
supplements are good choices for giving your smoothie an extra energy boost. They're readily
available at your local health food store and will blend well into your favorite homemade smoothie
recipes."
"Smoothie. A drink with a thick, smooth consistency made from pureeing fruit with yogurt, ice
cream, or milk. The term dates to the 1970s."
"A lot of things are being sold as smoothies today, but generally, they're loaded with fresh fruit,
nonfat frozen yogurt, vitamins, minerals, fibers, active cultures, immune-system boosters and
sometimes protein powder. And they can be blended to order in less than a minute. Actually,
smoothies have been around since the early 1970s. They were created on the West Coast as a
refreshment at health clubs and juice bars. If you've ever had an Orange Julius, you've had a
smoothie."
About Orange Julius & Smoothie King.
If you are researching the smoothie industry for business class, ask your librarian how to access
consumer & trade magazine databases such as EBSCO's MasterFile, Business Source,
ProQuest's Research II, Gale's Business and Company Resource and DIALOG's Business &
Industry. Here you will find articles on companies, market data, consumer trends and pricing
strategy. Ask your librarian about access...many of these databases may be available to you from
your own home computer. All you need is a library card! The Juice and Smoothie Association may also be
useful.
Related foods? Lemonade & milk shakes.
Switchel is a energy-boosting beverage originating in colonial North America, most notably New England.
The primary ingredients were molasses, vinegar, gingr and water, though other ingredients were sometimes added. Alternative
appelations included "Haymakers Punch," "Harvest Drink," "Harvesrt Beer," and "Swanky."
"Switchel. [Origin unknown. A name for various intoxicating drinks.] A drink of molasses and
water, often seasoned with vinegar and ginger, and sometimes with rum." 1790. Freneau,
Poems (1795) 375 "For such attempts men drink your high-proof wines. Not spiritless switchel
and vile hogo drams."...1946. Yankee August 9 "Our grandfathers would be drinking Switchel for
refreshment: a mixture of water, ginger, molasses or vinegar, and sometimes rum."
"Switchel. A Colonial drink made from molasses, vinegar, and water. It is sometimes called
"haymaker's punch." Brandy, cider, or rum was often added."
"As the time for harvesting the New England hay crops draws near, old-times are likely to sigh
for the earlier days when every farmer was expected to "do the honors" to the men he
employed to work in the hayfields. These consisted of sumptuous meals and plenty of switchel.
Possibly this cooling, delectable drink is known in fields afar today, but it was originally a New
England beverage, seldom manufactured or served except during haying. It was a concoction of
molasses, sugar, vinegar and water, and many good farm wives had their own secret formulas.
Some simply stirred until well blended, added ice if it were available and served. Others cooked
the mixture and allowed it to cool naturally. Generally switchel was carried to the hayfields in one
or two gallon stone jugs, wrapped in wet cloths and placed somewhere in the sahd. By keeping
the cloth wet the mixture would remain cool for hours. While switchel was originally devised as a
strictly non-alcoholic, and peculiarly cooling, drink, some farmers who believed their men cut
more hay when warm than when cool more or less liberally fortified the contents of the jug with
New England rum; which was cheap; pure and plentiful. Such employers had little difficulty in
obtaining plenty of hands during haying time."
"Many of the large New England hayfields have disappeared; so has the switchel, which
is now merely a name. Switchel was a mixture of molasses, ginger, water and a dash of
vinegar, contained in a brown jug cached under the shade of a bunch of alders or partly
submerged in a spring hole. On a hot day when men were mowing, raking, or pitching
hay, frequent trips were made to the switchel jug. Dusty throats needed something to
wash away the hayseed, and switchel was the answer. It was consumed in quantities.
The coldness of the water was tempered by the molasses, while the ginger and vinegar
prevented cramps."
How to make Switchel?
[1855]
[1869]
[1877]
Related beverages? cordials, shrub & punch.
Andrew F. Smith, one of America's most respected and prolific food historians, launched his career studying/reporting on
tomatoes. His first book: The Tomato in America [1994] is the cornerstone for all things tomato. Mr. Smith carefully/academically
chronicles the introduction, recipe embracements, medicinal applications, social challenges and commercial successes of tomatoes
in our country. Presumably, tomato juice descended from 19th century tomato pills & tomato syrup. These "modern" health preparations were prescribed for everyone from infants to
infirmed requiring a serious infusion of vitamins. Decades before lycopine was discovered, medical professionals and housewives
understood & respected the power of the tomato.
"The Campbell Soup Company's first major diversification was in tomato juice. The drinking of tomato juice was a mid-twentieth-century
phenomenon. According to several accounts, tomato juice was the creation of the American-born French Chef Louis Perrin. In 1917
he experimentally served tomato juice to his guests at a resort in French Lick Springs, Indiana. Chicago businessmen who spent
their vacations at French Lick Springs purportedly spread the word to others about the 'tomato juice cocktail in lieu of stronger
mixtures.' Although canned tomato cocktails were growing more popular by the 1920s, none of the existing products yielded juice
with just the right color and flavor. Tomato juice cocktails were heralded during a Tri-State Packers Convention at Philadelphia;s
Adlephia Hotel in 1922. A can manufacturer served tomato juice free of charge to each participant in the annual banquet in
hopes that canners would pack tomato juice. By this date, tomato juice was touted as a health drink and was served in hospitals. According
to Dr. Hugo Friedstein of Chicago's Children's Memorial Hospital, the vitamin content of tomato juice did 'marvelous things in
cleansinhg the system.' Yet it was not canned commercially. The reason for the failure of canned tomato juice as that tomato solids settled
atthe bottom of the can, or the class the juice as poured into. In 1924 an Indianapolis pediatrician discussed this problem with his
friend Ralph Kemp of Frankfort, Indiana. Kemp had majored in agricultural engineering at the University of Wisconsin and at
the time worked with his father, John Kemp, operating a canning plant. Intrigued with the challenge, the Kemps began experimenting
to find a way to break tomato pulp into minute particles that would float in the juice. Their solution was to use a viscolizer
previously employed in the manufacture of ice cream. It required a great deal of adaption to be used successsfully canning tomato
juice. After four years of work, the Kemps finally succeeded. In 1928 they applied for a patent and initiated the first national
advertising campaign for their tomato juice. Tomato juice was an instant hit with the American public. The Campbell Soup Company moved itno
high gear to produce its own tomato juice. Campbell converted part of Camden's Plant No. 2, built during the 1920s, for makin
tomato soup. The problem now became what tomato variety should be grown for making juice. After experimentation, a tomato was found that met the
needs. Campbell released its version of tomato juice in 1931. In 1932 Campbell launched a major marketing drive for its tomato
juice, and by 1935 30 percent of Campbell tomatoes went into making that product. By the following year, cookbooks included
recipes using Campbell's tomato juice as an ingredient. Another reason tomato juice was so succesful was the end of Prohibition. A
cocktail made of tomato juice and vodka was probably first developed at Harry's Bar in Paris by Ferdinand 'Pete" Petiot. Petiot
moved to New York in 1933 and introduced his new creation. After experimentation, he added Worcestershire sauce and called it
a Bloody Mary. Its name was supposedly derived from the British Queen Mary I, who killed many Protestants during her reign in the
mid-sixteenth century, Others claim that Mary was Petiot's girlfriend...Tomato juice was a natural addition to the Campbell Soup
Company, which had been built on the tomato. Its introduction, however, reversed the corporate decision to focus soley on
soupmaking. The implications of this trend would not be felt for decades. Shortly after World War II ended, Campbell Soup
Company made another logical addition when it purchased V8 juice from Standard Brands."
[1913]
[1922]
Michigan State University's
Feeding America historical cookbooks offers 13 pre-1922 recipes using Tomato Juice.
[1928 & 1953]
Related foods? Tomato Sauce & Gazpacho.
Food historians tell us hunter-gatherers inhabiting northern regions used ice for storage and food
preservation. This was a matter of practicality, not choice. Cooled drinks and frozen desserts,
such as lemonade, iced tea, and flavored ices, were enjoyed by upper-class ancient civilizations.
Both lemons and tea are "Old World" foods. Early records of consumption place the origins of
these drinks in the Mediterranean regions and Asia, respectively. These beverages were
introduced to America by European settlers. Economics of the Ice trade expanded the markets for
cold drinks in the mid-nineteenth century. Lemonade and iced tea (along with several other
popular food innovations) are sometimes touted as having been "invented" at the St. Louis
Exposition in 1904. This is not true. Culinary evidence confirms both were known long before
that year. Their rise to popularity in our country is sometimes attributed to the Temperance
(anti-alcohol) Movement of the late 19th/early 20th centuries.
"Storing food and drink in low temperatures is an ancient practice The cold air of a natural cave
or the cool environment of a well-insulated underground pit or chamber worked as natural
refrigerators for grains and root crops. Furthermore, just as hunters on the arid plains found their
kill would dry out in the sun, so hunters of the icebound regions must have discovered that meat
left in the snow or freezing, icy winds would also keep, at least until it thawed. Keeping food cool
slows down the bacterial action in food, thereby helping the food stored safely for longer, a
process now known as refrigeration. Microoganisms do not like the cold. It slows down their
metabolism and makes them sluggish, unable to reproduce...freezing does not actually destroy the
organism; it merely puts them into a chilling limbo until they and the food they inhabit are
defrosted. While the hunter may have temporarily lost some meat in the freezing snow, he might
also have buried some "overkill" of meat or fish in the ground to hide it from predators or rival
hunting parties....Sometimes, where the right conditions were available, the technique developed
of freezing food to preserve it....In...northern regions, food became frozen unavoidably, and the
fact that the food was preserved was a fortunate by unsought side effect...
"In warmer regions, ice was only used for cooling, although people have enjoyed chilled
drinks and cooled food in the most unlikely places. Ice pits and icehouses were known to have
been built in Mesopotamia almost four thousand years ago, and the powerful and wealthy men
and women of Persia, Egypt, Rome, and Greece were accustomed to being served cold drinks and
chilled fruits even in the hottest weather. Alexander the Great ordered trenches to be dug at Petra,
filled with winter snow, and covered with oak branches so that his soldiers could drink cooled
wine in summertime. As well as chilling drinks, snow and ice were also used by physicians to treat
patients with fever, inflammation, and stomach complaints. So all around the Mediterranean, snow
was collected from the mountains and carried down to the cities, where it was sold daily or stored
in ice houses. The snow was packed hard into pits and covered with branches, straw, leaf mats, or
coarse cloth. The Chinese...were harvesting and storing ice by at least 1100 B.C....Sometimes the
ice had to travel many miles. Thirteenth- and fourteenth-century Egyptian royalty had their ice
shipped from the mountains of Lebanon all the way to Cairo...Like sugar, ice became a part of the
fabulous sparkling jewelery of banquets, with centerpieces of elaborate ice sculptures, sugar
trifoni, chilly jellies, iced sherberts, and glass or silver bowls of ice-encrusted fruits...By the
sixteenth century numerous palaces, estates, chateaux, abbeys, and monestaries throughout
Europe, the Middle east, and China had their own icehouses. Soon, anyone with aspirations to
elegant living had ice or snow houses built, and by the eighteenth century many of these had
acquired architectural pretentions, with Gothic arches or Grecian pillars...The basic
construction...changed little up to the nineteenth century...But ice was not just the preserve of the
rich; in some parts of Europe the peasants erected simple ice stacks made from branches, heather,
and pete near ponds, flooded meadows, lakes, and slow-moving rivers that froze in winterime.
Although icehouses were principally used for storing ice rather than for preserving food, they
gradually came to be seen as useful refrigerators for food...The increasing demand for clean,
good-quality ice opened an important new market. In Europe, when a mild winter failed to
produce ice, people had to look north, to Greenland and Norway...In nineteenth-century Paris and
London, cooks, confectioners, butchers, fishmongers, and wine merchants all rushed to buy from
ship bringing cargoes of ice form the "Greenland seas." Ice harvesting was a dangerous
business...competition...soon began flooding the market..."
"Ice has been used to preserve food and cool beverages for thousands of years. Wealthy
Europeans brought their appreciation of icy desserts and iced drinks with them to the New World.
Archaeolgists at Jamestown, Virginia, found ice pits dating from as early as the seventeenth
century. The colonists cut ice from ponds, lakes, and rivers during the winter and stored it in
caves and underground cellars to last through the hot summer months. In the eighteenth century,
icehouse, which are more efficient than cellars, provided cold storage, as well as preserving ice for
chilling food and drink and making ice cream. Ice was advertised for sale in Philadelphia
newspapers as early as 1784, and Europeans visiting Philadelphia and Baltimore in the 1790s
reported that Americans drank water with ice and that containers of ice were used to cool hotel
rooms. The first recorded cargo of ice was shipped from New York to Charleston, South
Carolina, in 1799, and between 1805 and 1860 Frederick Tudor, a Boston merchant, grew rich
shipping harvested ice from Massachusetts ponds overseas. Tudor, known as the Ice King,
promoted the construction and use of ice chests, sent agents to help establish businesses selling
ice cream, extolled the virtues of ice for preserving food, and promoted the sale of carbonated
water, which he thought tasted better cold. He even offered bar owners free ice for a year if they
agreed to sell iced drinks at the same price as warm ones."
About ice houses
RECOMMENDED READING:
Have you ever wondered why wine bottles are shaped the way they are? Why are some different sizes & colors?
The history of wine containers is a study in human techonology, economics, and politics. Salud!
"Today it may be taken for granted that wine bottles of different colours and shapes will hold a precise capacity. Nor is it questioned that a paper label will be firmly
fixed to the bottle to give a plethora of information, much of it required by law. These are recent developments. In classical antiquity wine was stored and transported in large,
long jars called amphorae. They varied considerably in size but it would certainly be difficult to pour a drinking quantity form such an awkward and big vessel, without using some sort of
intermediate container. The Romans invented the technique of blowing glass bottles and some of these may well have been used to serve wine. Pottery and stoneware jugs
were used for centuries in Europe for serving wine, but glass took over as technology to make glass in commercial quantities spread in the 17th century, and by the end of it
glass bottles were plentiful, although reserved for the upper classes. Shape. Early bottles have more or less globular bodies with long conical necks. The form developed...
becoming lower and wider in Britain, while on mainland Europe the flask-shape with an oval cross-section was popular. From c. 1690 to 1720, the outline of a bottle
resembled that of an onion--a wide compressed globlular body with a short neck. Larger bottles were made too, whose shape resembled an inflated balloon or
bladder...By the 1720s the 'onion' became taller and the sides flatter...Naturally occurring impurities in the constituent ingredients gave glass an olive green hue which varied from pale
to almost black and was beneficial to the bottled wine as it excluded light. Most bottles had an applied ring of glass just below the neck which gave an anchorage to the string used
to hold in a variety of stoppers...Wine drinkers made an important discovery in the 1730s. While it was known that some vintages of wine were better than others even in
prehistory, their keeping and consequent maturing qualities were not realized until the introduction of binning, the storing of wines in bottles laid on their sides...In 1821
Rickets of Bristol patented a machine for moulding bottles of uniform size and shape...Thus the modern wine bottle had evolved...From 1636, at about the time of the first
appearance of glass bottles in post-Roman Britain, it was illegal to sell wine by the bottle. The consumer protection measure was on account of vintner's willingness to take
advantage of the varying capacity of blown bottles. From that time and for the next 230 years, wine was sold by the measure and then bottled. Customers who bought
regularly had their own bottles and had them marked in order to distinguish them from any other that might be at the vintner's premises waiting to be filled. The usual marking was the
attachment at the end of the production process of a disc seal of the same glass as the bottle, upon which was impressed the owner's initials, name, or heraldic device, often
accompanied by the date, Innkeepers and taverners had appropriately marked, or 'sealed', bottles too. It may be noted here that these seals did not indicate contents...
Bottles with paper labels indicating the contents, first had written and later printed, emerged during the opening years of the 19th century, but in Britain the law
prohibiting wine from being sold by the bottle was not relaxed until 1860...
The size and shape of early bottles was, to an extent, a hit and miss affair. Perhaps the 'standard' size was the natural result
of a lungful of air, but bottles were made in a variety of sizes from early times."
When did the large format bottle names begin?
USA wine bottle sizes & standardization
[1889]
[1902]
[1952]
[1965]
[1971]
[1972]
[1973]
[1974]
[1977]
About culinary research & about copyright.
---Cambridge World History of Food, Kenneth F. Kiple & Conee R. Ornelas [Cambridge University Press:Cambridge] 2000, Volume One (p. 620)
---Food in Antiquity (p. 166-167)
---A History of Beer and Brewing, Ian S. Hornsey [RSC:Cambridge] 2003 (p. 10)
---Cambridge World History of Food, Volume One (p. 730)
---Food in Antiquity (p. 167-169)
---Oxford Companion to Wine, Jancis Robinson editor [Oxford University Press:
Oxford] 2nd edition, 1999 (p. 505)
Colonial American beverages
Coffee, tea and chocolate were popular non-alcaholic hot beverages during American Colonial times. These imports were expensive, but not beyond the reach of
the average person. Folks too poor to afford the *real thing* brewed hot beverages from herbs, flowers, bark, roots, and woody stems. Alas, there was no ready
substitute for chocolate! Presumably, cider could have been served warm too.
---America's Founding Food: The Story of New England Cooking, Keith Stavely & Kathleen Fitzgerald [University of North
Carolina Press:Chapel Hill NC] 2004 (p. 266)
---Hung, Strung, (p. 202)
---A Social History of Tea, Jane Pettigrew [National Trust Enterprises:London] 2001 (p. 48-51)
---Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess [Columbia University Press: New York] 1981 (p. 451)
Colonial-era chocolate recipe
---The Experienced English Housekeeper, Elizabeth Raffald, facsimile 1769 edition with an introduction by Roy Shipperbottom [Southover Press:East Sussex] 1997 (p. 163)
Distilled spirits: Whiskey, Rum, Madeira, Sherry, Brandy
Brewed: beer, mead & metheglin, (both made with honey)
Wines & wine mixes: raisin, elderberry, orange, gooseberry, currant, cherry, birch, quince, clary or cowslip, turnep, raspberry,
blackberry, damson, grape, apricot, balm, lemon,), hippocras (wine & spice mix), Stepony, shrub, punch
Cream drinks (served warm or cold): caudle, sack posset, syllabub
Medicinal waters (some with, some without alcohol): Cordials, plague water, heart water, hysterical water, fever
water
Spirits(also medicinal): cinnamon, clary, mint,saffron, rosemary flowers, beazor.
19th century American beverages
Coffee & coffee substitutes
Cream Coffee (whipped cream)
Chocolate (made with scraped, unsweetened chocolate)
Cocoa
Tea
Cold Coffee
Ice Tea (with or without lemon)
Lemonade
Milk Lemonade
Cider
Raspberry Vinegar
Harvest drink (sugar, ginger & vinegar, aka Switchel)
Carbonated water (soda water, with or without flavored syrups)
Mineral water
Distilled spirits: rum, whiskey, gin, bourbon, rye
Wines: black currant, blackberry, currant, grape, gooseberry
Brandies: blackberry, cherry
Punch: claret, champagne
Egg nog
Sack Posset
Shrub
Beer
Small beer: ginger beer, Ginger pop, spruce beer
Mead (honey beer)
Champagne
Recommended reading: Early American Beverages, John Hull Brown [Bonanza Books:New York] 1966
Carnation Instant Breakfast
"Carnation Co. announced a product that it said provides the nutrients of a conventional breakfast when dissolved in a glass of whole milk. The product, Instant
Breakfast, will be introduced in eight Western states, the company said."---"Carnation's Instant Breakfast," Wall Street Journal, August 4, 1964 (p. 15)
"Carnation Milk will be one of the exhibitors in the All-Gas Show...Carnation has expanded its line of fine products to include Instant Milk, Coffee-Mate, Friskies Pet Foods, Contadina Instant Breakfast."---"More Than 60 Exhibits Set for May 25-17," John A. Saunders, Phildelphia Tribune, May 15, 1965 (p. 28)
"Carnation Instant Breakfast, pkg of 6 envs. 65 cents"---display ad, New York Times, October 20. 1965 (p. 25)
"One of the most familiar names to homemakers in Chicago and elsewhere over the past decade and even before is Carnation...One recent result of...research is the
new instant breakfast product. A packet of instant breakfast added to an 8-ounce glass of milk provides all the nutrients of a complete breakfast. Carnation
researchers developed it especially for people who either skip breakfast or don't take the time for a complete one, but it is also widely used for snacks."---
"Carnation Milk in a Great Decade," Chicago Defender, February 26, 1966 (p. 25)
"Carnation's 'instant breakfast.' a powdery non-fat, dry milk that is mixed with an eight-ounce glass of milk, has been 'very well received' since it was introduced a
year ago, said George Wilkins, a company spokesman. Chocolate is currently outselling the other nine flavors, he said."
---"'The Martyred Meal': Some Skip It, Some Splurge," Judy Klemesrud, New York Times, January 21, 1967 (p. 38)
"The Carnation Company of Los Angeles has promised to stop making what the Federal Trade Commission called unwarranted nutrition claims in advertising
Carnation Instant Breakfast, the commission announced today. The commission's complaint alleged, among other things, that the advertisements falsely implied that
Carnation Instant Breakfast had the nutritional benefit of two fresh eggs, two slices of bacon, two slices of buttered toast and an orange or a glass of orange juice.
One section of the complaint charged deception because the advertising failed to disclose that part of the nutrients claimed for the product were in the milk mixed
with it by its users."---"Carnation Agrees to Halt Breakfast Product Claims," New York Times, November 1, 1970 (p. 42)
"It really isn't who you bat in an athletic contest that shows if you've made the big time. Its' whether the advertisers want to use you that counts. So, welcome to the
very big time, Billie Jean King, and may your relationship with Carnation Instant Breakfast be a long, lucrative and healthy one. The woman tennis star, who has
been drinking Carnation anyhow, will now be starring in a big advertising campaign that will be very heavy in TV."---"Tennis Stars Scoring IN Big Ad Campaigns,"
Philip H. Dougherty, New York Times, March 27, 1974 (p. 69)
"Carnation Instant Breakfast, Pkg 10 $2.49; Carnation Breakfast Bars, pkg $1.75"---display ad, New York Times, May 6, 1989 (p. C13)
"Instant breakfasts are another example of repositioning, in this case on the grocer's shelf. General foods introduced the mix-with-milk powder in supermarkets' diet
sections. It did not do that well. Carnation resurrected the concept as Carnation Instant Breakfast, and sold it in the cereal section. Sales soared."---"How to
Save an Aging Product," New York Times, January 24, 1982 (p. F6)
Cider
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Atyo [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 77-78)
---Food and Drink in Britain From the Stone Age to the 19th Century, C. Anne Wilson [Academy Broadway:Chicago] 1991 (p. 382-383)
---Food and Feast in Tudor England, Alison Sim [Sutton Publishing:Phoenix Mill UK] 1997(p. 46)
---Elinor Fettiplace's Receipt Book: Elizabethan Country House Cooking, Hilary Spurling [Elisabeth Sifton Books:New York] 1986 (p. 216)
---Food and Drink in Britain (p. 404)
Cocoa
A. Raw food/commodity--nut from a New World tree used to create several different products of different grades and processes, including chocolate.
NOTE: It is important for researchers to examine early descriptions closely so not to confuse
cocoa nuts (from the cocoa tree) with cocoa nuts
(tropical fruit).
B. Commercial product--manufactured by several companies, 1828 forwards under different names (breakfast cocoa, prepared cocoa, Broma (enriched
product), ground chocolate, powdered chocolate, granulated cocoa. Not all cocoa was powder: cocoa nibs & cocoa shells are prime examples.
C. Recipe--19th century cocoa recipes (& related beverage, (hot) chocolate) are all over the map. The two most prevalent recipes employ chocolate scrapings (boil with milk/water) or chocolate shells (brew like coffee/tea). Cookbooks did not generally include recipes for cocoa made with chocolate powder, as instructions for these preparations would have been on the company's package or advertisements.
"Cocoa, a brown powder produced by grinding the roasted seeds of a topical American evergreen tree, has had a checquered linguistic
history, owing to its confusion with the coconut. When the Spaniards first encountered cocoa in Central America in the early
sixteenth century, they named it cacao, and adaptation of cacahuatl, the term for 'cocoa bean 'in the Nahuatl language. English
adopted the Spanish word in the mid-sixteenth century,, and used it quite happily for the next 150 years or so. But then, around
1700, we begin to see the first signs of cacoa, and the coco of the coconut...becoming associated in speakers' minds. Early
intermediate forms were cacoa and cocao, which were still pronounced with three syllables, but by the end of the eighteenth
century coca seems to have become firmly established, its -oa spelling revealing its exotic origin, but its pronunciation showing its
complete phonetic assimilation to coco. The drink made from the product of the cocoa tree was originally called chocolate...The term
cocoa was not widely applied to it until the end of the eighteenth century...And the drink we would recognize as cocoa today appeared
later still. The process of manufacturing it, by removing a large proportion of the fat content (cocoa butter) to produce a
lighter drink, was invented in 1828 by the Dutchman Coenraad Van Houten. This cocoa, often adulterated with flour, potato starch,
and even earth, became a staple beverage of the nineteenth-century British working class, enthusiastically promoted by the
temperance societies."
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 83)
---True History of Chocolate, Sophie D. Coe and Michael D. Coe, 2nd edition [Thames & Hudson:London] 2007 (p. 18)
"1828 marks the beginning of the modern era in chocolate making and production. In that year, a Dutch chemist named Coenraad Johannes
Van Houten took out a patent on a process for the manufacture of a new kind of powdered chocolate with a very low fat content.
As early as 1815, in his own Amsterdam factory, he had been looking for a method better than mere boiling and skimming to remove most
of the fat of the cacao butter from chocolate. For this, he eventually developed a very efficient hydraulic press untreated
chocolate 'liquor'--the end result of the grinding process--contains about 53 percent cacao butter, but Van Houten's machine managed
to reduce this to 27 or 28 percent, leaving a 'cake' that could be pulverized into a fine powder. This was was we know as
'cocoa.' To cause this product to mix well with water, Van Houten treated it with alkaline salts (potassium or sodium
carbonates). While this 'Dutching,' as it came to be known, improved the powder's miscibility (not, as some believed, its
solubility) in warm water, it made the chocolate darker in color and milder in flavor...At any rate, in the year 1828, the age-old,
thick and foamy drink was dethroned by easily-prepared, more easily digestible cocoa. Van Houten's invention of the defatting and alkalizing
processes made possible the large-scale manufacture of cheap chocolate for the masses."
---True History of Chocolate, Sophie D. Coe and Michael D. Coe, 2nd edition [Thames & Hudson:London] 2007 (p. 235-236))
---Cocoa and Chocolate: A Short History of Their Production and Use [Walter Baker & Company:Dorchester MA] 1886 (p. 5)
[1847]
"W. Baker's American, Homeopathic and French Chocolate, Prepared Cocoa, Cocoa Paste, Broma, Cocoa Shells, etc."
---Bangor Daily Whig & Courier, May 6, 1847 (p. 3)[No mention of packaging or powder]
"Baker's Breakfast Cocoa, in 1/2 lb. packages (tin), Is made from selected cocoa, with the excess of butter of cacao removed,
and guaranteed to be absolutely pure. It is more than three times the strength of other cocoas, making an economical, excellent,
and delicious beverage for breakfast or supper, Costing less than Once Cent a Cup."
---Cocoa and Chocolate (p. 160) [NOTE: this book also offers descriptions for "Baker's Prepared Cocoa, in 1/2 pound packages, yellow
label and Baker's Broma in 1/2 lb packages (tin), preparation of pure cocoa and other highly nutritious substances, pleasantly
flavored and sweetened."]
We know Van Houten made this product possible in 1828. Early commercial references confirm powdered cocoa product was promoted as health food.
"Digestibility" was the key selling point.
"Schweitzer's Cocoatina. Anti-Dyspepsic Cocoa or Chocolate Powder. Guaranteed Pure Soluble of the finest Quality, with the excess
of fat extracted. The Faculty pronounces it 'the most nutritious, perfectly digestible...for Breakfast, Luncheon or
Supper and invaluable for Invalids and Children...made instantaneously with boiling water, a teaspoon to a
Breakfast Cup costing less than a halfpenny."
---Edinburg Evening Courant [UK], January 14, 1867 (p. 8)
[Company: H. Schweitzer, 10 Adams Street, London. Earliest print evidence we find for this product in USA source: March 27, 1884
(p. 7), Sterling Standard (IL).]
"F. EVANS & T. SYSON. Apparatus for Preparing Chocolate and Cocoa.
No,153,325. Patented July 21,1874.
THE GRAPH 1C CO. PHOTP-UTH.39 *41 PARK PLACE,N.V. United States Patent Office.
FBEDERICK EVAN'S AND THOMAS DYSON, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.
IMPROVEMENT IN APPARATUS FOR PREPARING CHOCOLATE AND COCOA.
Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 153,325, dated July 31,1874; application tiled June 30,1874.
To all wliom it may concern :
Be it known that we, Frederick Evans and Thomas Dyson, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Bolls for Preparing Chocolate and Cocoa; and that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, making a part of this specification.
This invention is in the nature of an improvement in rolls for preparing chocolate and cocoa; and the invention consists in a series of hollow rolls or drums, arranged and constructed so that a continuous current of cold water or steam may pass through them, in the manner and for the purpose hereinafter fully described.
In the accompanying sheet of drawings, Figure 1 represents an end view of our rolls, partly in section; and Fig. 2, a side view of same, partly in section.
Similar letters of reference indicate like parts in the several figures.
As is well known, in the preparation of the cocoa-beau for the purpose of rendering it marketable as cocoa or chocolate, expensive and complicated machinery has heretofore been employed for this purpose; and in addition to this machinery, it has always been found necessary to subject the cocoa to repeated grinding, mixing, scraping, and melting, in separate operations, before it was rendered in a marketable condition as cocoa and chocolate. By our invention, however, this process is simplified and the cocoa-beans prepared as cocoa or chocolate without the use of expensive machinery or the loss of time in its preparation.
A series or train of rolls, A, are constructed with hollow interiors, and are provided with hollow journals, a, and the necessary couplings, 1). These rolls are supported in suitable bearing-frames, B, and they are placed in pairs, one above another. To the end of each roll are secured gear-wheels e, that mesh into one another, and into the gears of a drivingwheel, E. Immediately over the surface of the upper rolls is provided a hopper, /, and between the rolls A, and also below the under
rolls, are affixed scrapers g. These scrapers are adjustable by set-screws, and the rolls themselves are rendered adjustable by means of the adjustable bearings H, which, by the operation of the set-screws i, permit the rolls to be moved nearer to or farther from each other.
Our rolls being constructed substantially as above described, they are operated as follows: Power being applied to the driving-wheel E, the rolls are caused to revolve, and if it is designed to prepare the cocoa-bean for merchantable cocoa, suitable pipes are attached to the couplings Z* and a current of cold water directed into the several rolls, filling them and finding exit through the couplings c at the other end of the rolls, keeping the rolls at all times thoroughly cooled. The cocoabeans, having been roasted in the ordinary way and deprived Of their shells, are cracked and introduced into the hopper/, whence they come in contact with the upper pair of rolls, A, and being crushed and ground between them, they pass to the second pair of rolls, (which may be brought closer together than the upper pair of rolls,) and in this way the cocoa is reduced until it emerges from beneath the rolls in a fine, granulated state, and it is at once ready for market and for use. If the rolls were not kept cool by the current of cold water through them, the friction created by the passage of the cocoa-beans between the rolls would heat them to such an extent as to partially liquefy or soften the oleaginous principle in the bean, and the cocoa would mass together in a stiif and almost unyielding substance, rendering it difficult to pass between the rolls and destroying its granulated form.
When the rolls above described are to be used for the manufacture of chocolate, live steam, instead of a current of water, is passed into the rolls A in precisely the same manner as was conducted the water above mentioned, and by this means the rolls are heated to the temperature of the steam, so that when the cocoa-beans pass between them the heated rolls at once liquefy the oleaginous principle contained in the cocoa, and the heat, together with the pressure of the rolls, at once melts, as it were, or dissolves the cocoa into a homogeneous, ungranulated, and smooth mass, so that when it finally issues below the rolls it is iu the form of an unctuous paste, and is at once, and without farther preparation, ready for the market. If sweet chocolate is desired, sugar or other saccharine substance may be added to the chocolate, either as it passes through the rolls or afterward. To prevent the rollers becoming choked or clogged when in operation, scrapers <7, which are adjustable, as before mentioned, are secured to the frame B of the rolls, and these remove any surplus cocoa that may adhere to the surface of the rolls.
153,325
Having thus described our invention, what we claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is—
Rolls for the manufacture of cocoa or chocolate, constructed with hollow interiors, in combination with steam or water pipes, substantially in the manner and for the purpose described.
FREDERICK EVANS. THOMAS DYSON. Witnesses: H. L. Wattenbeeg, G. M. Plympton."
"Cocoa, so much enjoyed by invalids, and supposed to be the purest of all articles used for beverages, is just as liable to
adulteration at the hands of the manufacturer and dealer as tea and coffee...Genuine cocoa is exceedingly hard to find. Many of
the preparations...sold under the name of chocolate shells and chocolate powder, consist of a disgusting mixture of bad or musty
cocoa nuts with their shells...of the poorest quality, ground up with potato starch...chalk, sulphate of lime...."
---Elyria Constitution [OH], November 15, 1877 (p. 4)
"There is a preparation of cocoa, already powdered, called 'cocoatina,' which needs no boiling. It is very good, and saves the trouble of
grating and cooking. I regret that, although I have used it frequently and with great satisfaction, I have forgotten the name of the
manufacturer. It is put up in round boxes, like mustard, and is quite as economical for family use as the cakes of cocoa."
---The Dinner Yearbook, Marion Harland [Charles Scribner's Sons:New York] 1878 (p. 15)
"United States Patent Office.
JOHN G. FINKE, OF NEW YOBK, N. Y.
IMPROVEMENT IN GRANULATED CHOCOLATE.
Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 215,341, dated May 13, 1879; application filed February 27, 1879.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, John Geokoe Finke, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Granulated Chocolate, of which the following is a specification.
The object of this invention is to furnish chocolate so prepared that it may be ready for immediate use without scraping or grating, and so tbat one cup or more may be made ready at a time, as may be desired.
The invention consists in granulated chocolate prepared by coating the grains of granulated sugar with melted chocolate, and in the process of preparing granulated chocolate by melting the chocolate cakes in a water-bath to which the heat is applied, stirring the granulated sugar into the melted chocolate until the grains of sugar are thoroughly coated, and then pouring the mixture upon a stone and stirring it until cold, as hereinafter fully described.
In preparing my improved granulated chocolate, one or more cakes of chocolate, as found in market, are placed in a water-bath, to which the heat is applied. When the chocolate cakes are melted, granulated sugar, in the pro
portion of ten pounds of sugar to one and three-fourths pound of chocolate, is poured in, and allowed to stand until the sugar is thoroughly heated, usually about two hours. It is then thoroughly stirred until every grain of sugar is coated with chocolate. The mixture is then poured upon a stone and stirred until cold. The granulated chocolate thus prepared is then sifted, and is then ready for use, or to be put up for market.
I am aware that it is not newto form a chocolate-powder by triturating roasted cocoa or •chocolate beans or nuts to a paste in a heated mortar with sugar and aromatics, cooling this in molds, and, finally, grinding to a coarse powder.
Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent—
A chocolate breakfast-powder consisting of sugar coated with chocolate and in a granulated form, as described.
JOHN GEOKGE FINKE.
Witnesses: James T. Graham, C. Sedgwick".
"Cocoa is from the seed of the fruit of a small tropical tree. There are several forms in which it is sold, the most nutritious
and convenient being chocolate, the next cocoa, then coca nibs, and last cocoa shells. The ground bean is simply cocoa; ground fine
and mixed with sugar it is chocolate; the beans broken into bits are 'nibs.' The shells are the shells of the barn, usually removed before
grinding. The beans are roasted like coffee, and ground between hot rollers."
---Buckeye Cookery and Practical Housekeeping, revised and enlarged [Buckeye Publishing:Minneapolis MN] 1880 (p. 142)
"Cocoa, or chocolate nuts, are the seeds of the Theobroma Cacao, a handsome tree from fifteen to twenty feet in height, growing
in Mexico, the West Indies, and South America. These seeds, or cacao beans, are roasted the same as coffee until the aroma is brought
out. They are then pounded into a paste in a hot mortar, or ground between roller. The preparation thus produced, when mixed with sugar, starch,
cinnamon, and vanilla, forms the chocolate of commerce. Cocoa is the bean ground fine, the oil partly extracted, and the remaining powder
mixed with a small quantity of sugar. Cocoa Nibs is the bean deprived of its husks, and then broken into small rough pieces. This is the
purest and best cocoa in our markets. The shells or husks are also used to make a weak decoction for persons with delicate stomachs."
---Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book, Mrs. S[arah] T. Rorer [Arnold and Company:Philadelphia] 1886 (p. 542)
"Cocoa, The ground cocoa bean, from which part of the oil or fat has been extracted, sold in powdered form. Because of the smaller quantity of oil cocoa
is more acceptable to many digestions than the richer chocolate. It may be added that the fact that the cocoa tin is not full when
opened does not necessarily imply short measure. The tins used by manufacturers are larger than required for the weight called
for, as cocoa fresh from the machines bulks a little larger than after it has been shake down in commercial handling."
---The Grocer's Encyclopedia, Artemas Ward [New York] 1911 (p. 150-151)
"Lowney's 'Always Ready' Sweet Chocolate Powder has a rich chocolate flavor--especiallyw hen boiled five minutes--for drinking, and besides makes the simplest and best icing for cake,
by simply pouring hot water over it. It is delicious as flavoring for ice cream....Lowney's [Breakfast] Cocoa is made form the choicest cocoa beans--the highest priced--ground very fine, with a part of the cocoa
butter pressed out to make it more digestible. Every atom of it is cocoa. It contains not one particle of adulterant, substitute, coloring matter, or chemical. Lowney's Cocoa has a perfect
natural flavor. Cocoa should be boiled from three to five minutes, but the milk should not be boiled."
---illustrated advertisements, Lowney's Cook Book Illustrated, Maria Willett Howard, revised edition [Walter M. Lowney Co.:Boston MA] 1907, 1912 (unpaginated ads, end of book).
[1852]
"Cocoa.--Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of good cocoa (the chocolate nut before it is ground) and one quart of water. Cover it, and as soon as it has
come to a boil, set it on coals by the side of the fire, to simmer for an hour or more. Take it hot with dry toast. Baker's
prepared cocoa is excellent."
---Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches, Miss [Eliza] Leslie [Henry Carey Baird:Philadelphia] 47th edition, 1852 (p. 418)
"To Make Shells or Cocoa.
They require two or three hours to boil. Some persons like cocoa roasted and pounded before boiling."
---Mrs. Putnam's Receipt Book and Young Housekeepers Assistant, Mrs. Putnam [Blakeman & Mason:New York] 1862 (p. 115)
"Cocoa. Put in a tea or coffee cup, one or two tablespoonfuls of ground cocoa, pour boiling water or boiling milk on it while stirring
with a spoon, and sweeten it to your liking. A few drops of essence of vanilla may be added, according to taste."
---What to Eat and How to Cook It, Pierre Blot [D. Appleton and Company:New York] 1863 (p. 17)
"Cocoa.
6 tablespoonfuls of cocoa to each pint of water.
As much milk as you have water.
Sugar to taste.
Rub cocoa smooth in a little cold water. Have ready on the fire the pint of boiling water. Stir in the grated cocoa-paste. Boil
twenty minutes; add the milk and boil five minutes more, stirring often. Sweeten in the cups to suit different tastes."
---The Dinner Yearbook, Marion Harland [Charles Scribner's Sons:New York] 1878 (p. 15)
"Chocolate.
Scrape fine one square of Baker's chocolate (which will be an ounce). Put it in a pint of boiling water and milk, mixed in equal
parts. Boil it ten minutes, and during this time mill it or whip it with a Dover egg-whip (one with a wheel), which will make
it foam beautifully."
To one pint milk and one pint cold water add three tablespoonfuls grated cocoa. Boil fifteen or twenty minutes, milling or
whipping as directed in foregoing recipe. Sweeten to taste, at the table. Some persons like a piece of orange-peel boiled with it.
---Housekeeping in Old Virginia, Marion Cabell Tyree [John P. Morton:Louisville KY] 1879 (p. 65)
"Cocoa.
This is a very delicate drink. Persons who cannot drink coffee and tea, make use of this with impunity. Take two ounces of cocoa-shells
and put them in a coffee boiler (but which has never been used for making coffee,) with two pints of water; allow it to simmer for
eight hours by the side of the fire, and then pour it gently off for use, leaving the shells in the boiler, to which, if another ounce is added, it
will make two pints, but it should not be used oftener than twice.
This beverage is prepared the same as chocolate, omitting the sugar. Milk may be used altogether if preferred. Never boil prepared
cocoa more than one minute. Too much boiling makes it oily. The quicker it is used after making, the better it will be."
Scrape or grate the chocolate, take a tablespoon of it for a half pint, half-and-half milk and water; put it in a perfectly clean stew
pan, make the chocolate a smooth paste with a little cold milk, and stir it into the mik and water when it boils, cover in for
ten minues or longer; add sugar to taste, unless Fench chocolate is used, which is prepared sweet enough. Serve soda biscuits or
rolls, or toast with it."
---The Home Cook and Receipt Book and General Guide, Mrs. Ella E. Myers [Burlock & Co.:Philadelphia] 1880 (p. 176)
"Baker's Breakfast Cocoa.
Into a breakfast-cup ut a teaspoonful of the powder, add a tablespoonful of boiling water and mix thoroughly; then add equal parts of
boiling water and boiled milk, and sugar to the taste. Boiling two or three minutes will improve it."
---Cocoa and Chocolate [Walter Baker & Co.] (p. 99)
To one pint of milk and one pint of cold water add three tablespoonfuls of cocoa; boil fifteen or twenty minutes. Any other proportions of milk and
water make a pleasant beverage."
---Cocoa and Chocolate (p. 101)
"Cocoa is rich in nutritive elements...There is a number of forms in which it is sold on the market, the most convenient and
nutritious being chocolate. Next comes cocoa, then cocoa nibs, and lastly cocoa shells. The beans of the cocoa are roasted in the same
manner as coffee. The husks or shells are taken off and the beans then ground between hot rollers. Sometimes the husks are not
removed, but ground with the bean. The ground bean is called cocoa; and mixed with sugar, after being ground very fine, is
termed chocolate. Vanilla is often added as a flavor. Sometimes the cocoa is mixed with starch. When the bean is broken in
small pieces, these are called nibs."
---Miss Parloa's New Cook Book, Maria Parloa [Estes and Luriat:Boston] 1886 (p. 386)
Our survey of 19th century USA cookbooks does not suggest/confirm powdered cocoa was used in cooking. Primary push in those early days was drinkable
chocolate easily digested by infants and invalids. Mid-19th century USA chocolate cake recipes were in fact white cakes with chocolate icing achieved by scraping
chocolate. Evidence suggests powdered cocoa substitutions were early 20th century, most popular during the leanest of years when real chocolate was scarce.
Think: Great Depression & WWII. Subsequent cocoa cake recipes were purely a convenience. Early chocolate cake recipes
here.
Coffee in 18th & 19th century America
"In the predominantly rural United States of the mid-nineteenth century, people bought green coffee
beans (primarily from the West or East Indies) in bulk at the local general store, then roasted and
ground them at home. Roasting the beans in a frying pan on the wood stove required twenty minutes of
constant stirring and often produced uneven roasts. For the affluent there were a variety of home
roasters that turned by crank or steam, but none worked very well. The beans were ground in a
manufactured coffee mill or a mortar and pestle. Housewives usually brewed coffee just by boiling the
grounds in water. In order to clarify the drink, or "settle" the grounds to the bottom, brewers employed
various questionable additives, including eggs, fish, and eel skins...The routine American ruination of
coffee must have surprised sophisticated European visitors. During the first half of the nineteenth
century there was a veritable explosion of European coffee-making patents and ingenious devices for
combining hot water and ground coffee, including a popular two-tier drip pot invented around the time
of the French Revolution by Jean Baptiste de Belloy, the Archbishop of Paris. In 1809 a brilliant,
eccentric expatriot named Benjamin Thompson--who preferred to be known as Count Rumford--modified the de Belloy pot to create his own drip version. Rumford also made a corred brewing
pronouncement: Water for coffee should be fresh and near boiling, but coffee and water should never
be boiled together, and brewed coffee should never be reheated. Unfortunately for American
consumers, however, Rumford's pot and opinions did not travel back across the Atlantic. Nor did the
numerous, elegant brewers from France and England...Typical North American coffee of the period
was boiled until it was a bitter brew badly in need of milk and sugar to make it palatable."
---Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World, Mark
Prendergrast [Basic Books:New York] 1999 (p. 46-7)
---Early American Beverages, John Hull Brown [Bonanza Books:New York] 1966 (p. 100)
---ibid (p. 100)
---ibid (p. 100-101)
[Click title of book for complete citation]
According to primary documents pioneer (aka "cowboy") coffee was a hit or miss affair. Same as today,
everyone had their own idea as to correct proportions and cooking time. Filters ranged from fine
cloth to non-existent. Coffee grinders were often carried, and beans were ground on site. Ground
coffee was also available for purchase (in towns, packed in tins), but would probably not have
produced as fresh a brew.
---Wagon Wheel Kitchens: Food on the Oregon Trail, Jacqueline Williams [University of Kansas Press:Lawrence KS] 1993 (p. 38-41)
Coffee beans were on the list of rations for both North and South. Primary accounts confirm they were highly prized.
Substitutes were used when rations were gone.
---A Taste for War: The Culinary History of the Blue and the Gray, William C. Davis [Stackpole Books:Mechanicsburg PA] 2003 (p. 27)
---ibid (p. 45-6)
---Civil War Cookbook, William C. Davis [Courage Books:Philadelphia:PA] 2003 (p. 16)
---Hardtack and Coffee: or The Unwritten Story of Army Life, John D. Billings, facsimile 1887 edition [Univeristy of
Nebraska Press:Lincoln NE] 1993 (p. 123-5)
When real coffee was unavailable, a variety of alternative substitutes were employed. The final brew varied from borderline
acceptable to downright undrinkable. The best documented examples come from the American South during the
Civil War. Mary Elizabeth Massey's research is regularly referenced by contemporary authors. Every sentence is footnoted
back to the primary document. Comprehensive bibliography and excellent index are also offered. In Ms. Massey's own words:
---Ersatz on the Confederacy: Shortages and Substitutes on the Southern Homefront, Mary Elizabeth Massey, with a new
introduction by Barbara L. Bellows [University of South Carolina Press:Columbia SC] 1952, 1993 (p. 72-72)
"Coffee Substitutes: As substitutes for coffee, some use dry brown bread crusts, and roast them; other soak rye grain in rum, and
roast it; other roast peas in the same way as coffee. None of these are very good; and peas so used are considered
unhealthy. Where there is a large family of apprentices and workmen, the coffee is very dear, it may be worth while to use the
substitutes, or to mix them half and with coffee; but, after all, the best economy is to go without. French coffee is so
celebrated, that it may be worth while to tell how it is made; though no prudent housekeeper will make it, unless she has
boarders, who are willing to pay for expensive cooking. The coffee should be roasted more than is common with us; it should not hang
drying over the fire, but should be roasted quic; it should be ground soon after roasting, and used as soon as it is ground. Those
who pride themselves on first-rate coffee, burn it and grind it every morning. The powder should be placed in the coffee-pot in
the proportions of an ounce to less than a pint of water. The water should be poured upon the coffee boiling hot. The coffee
should be kept at the boiling point; but should not boil. Coffee made in this way must be made in a biggin. It should not be clear
in a common coffee-pot. A bit of fish-skin as big as a ninepiece, thrown into coffee while it is boiling, tends to make it
clear. If you use it just as it comes from the salt-fish, it will be apt to give an unpleasant taste to the coffee: it should
be washed clean as a bit of cloth, and hung up till perfectly dry. The whites of eggs, and even egg shells are good to settle
coffee. Rind of salt pork is excellent. Some people think coffee is richer and clearer for having a bit of sweet butter, or a
whole egg, dropped in and stirred, just before it is done roasting, and ground up, shell and all, with the coffee. But these
things are not economical, except on a farm, where butter and eggs are plenty. A half a gill of cold water, poured in after you
take your coffee-pot off the fire, will usually settle the coffee. If you have not cream for coffee, it is a very great
improvement to boil your milk, and use it while hot.---Amercian Frugal Housewife, 1830."
---Early American Beverages (p. 88-89)
"Acorn Coffee: Take sound a ripe acorns, peel off the shell or husk, divide the kernels, dry them gradually, and then roast them in
a close vessel or roaster, keeping them continually stirring; in doing which special care must be taken that they be not burnt
or roasted too much, both which would be hurtful. Take of these roasted acorns ground like other coffee) half an ounce every
other morning and evening, alone mixed with a dram of other coffee, and sweetened with sugar, or with or without milk. This receipt
is recommended by a famous German physician, as a much esteemed, wholesome nourishing, strengthening nutriment for mankind;
which, by its medicinal qualities, had been found to cure slimy obstructions in the viscera, and to remove nervous complaints
when other medicines have failed. Remark: Since they duty was taken off, West India coffees is so cheap that substitutes are not
worth making. On the continent the roasted roots of the wild chicory, a common weed, have been used with advantaged. ---Family
Receipt Book, 1819."
---Early American Beverages (p. 100)
"1282. Cheap and valuable substitute for Coffee.--The flour of rye, and yellow potatoes, are found an excellent substitute for coffee. Boil, peel, and mash potatoes, then mix with the meal
into a cake, which is to be dried in an oven, and afterwards reduced to a powder, which will make a beverage very similar to coffee in its taste, as well as other properties,
and not in the least detrimental to health."
---Mrs. Hale's Receipts for the Million, Mrs. Sarah Josepha Hale [T.B. Peterson:Philadelphia] 1857 (p. 352)
[NOTE: Mrs. Hale's Good Housekeeper c. 1841 does not include the above recipe. In addressing coffee substitutes it reads: "Several substitutes for coffee are used by
those who cannot afford the real berry--rye, peas, &c. None of these are very healthy, and certainly are certainly not good." (p. 111)]
"Ochra: It is said that the seeds of the ochra burnt like coffee, made a beverage almost exactly like it.--Beecher's Receipt Book, 1857."
---Early American Beverages, John Hull Brown [Bonanza Books:New York] 1966 (p. 89)
Betty Fussell's Story of Corn mentions corn [maize] was used as a coffee substitute during the Civil War but does not elucidate or provide reference. She also
mentions this recipe for "Dyspepsia Coffee," which may or may not be similar:
Libbie Thompson, Leroy.
Take a pint of corn meal and mix with molasses enough to wet it; put in a bake pan and brown the same as coffee. Put half meal and half coffee, which makes the
coffee excellent."
---Kansas Home Cook-Book, Mrs. CC.H. Cushing and Mrs. B. Gray, facsimile 1886 edition [Creative Cookbooks:Monterey CA] 2001 (p. 269)
The only recipe we find employing rye is connected with Texas, c. 1900. It also offers a recipe using beet root!
---A Pinch of This and a Handful of That, Delma Cothran Thames [Eakin Press:Austin TX] 1988 (p. 3)
Irish coffee
Dozens of articles published in USA newspapers chronicled American visitor experiences in Ireland. General concensus among USA coffee
afficianados: Irish attempts were seriously sub-par. No mention of whiskey or floating cream.
---"Cuppa Cawfee," Abeline Reporter-News [TX], January 30, 1942 (p. 4)
Irish aviation museum confirms Joe Sheridan's employment at Shannon Airport circa 1943. Text states Sheridan
was recruited by Brendan O'Regan. Sheridan later recounts concocting Irish Coffee at Foyne's Flying Boat Basin (later renamed Shannon Airport) in
1938. We wonder if Mr. O'Regan "recruited" Sheridan (to stay) because he knew a lucrative bartender when he saw one.
---SOURCE: Flying Boat Museum
Early print reference to classic Irish coffee confirmed the beverage was served to tired international travelers at Shannon Airport. Article personally
recounts an American reporter's experience, confirming pressmen frequented the facility. "Irish coffee" (aka "Gaelic coffee") is forever transformed from swill
to swank.
---"Irish Coffee at 4 a.m. Is a Little Bit of Heaven," Frederick C. Othman, El Paso Herald-Post, October 17, 1950 (p. 11)
Irish coffee lands in San Francisco bay area, early 1950s.
---display ad, International Room Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge, Oakland Airport [CA], Oakland Tribune, December 1, 1951 (p. 9)
Dinner & drinks at Shannon; Irish Coffee welcome is expected by international travelers.
Stan Delaplane's legendary syndicated column "introducing" Irish coffee to the USA. When he wrote, people read. And he wrote often. Predictable St. Patrick's Day columns celebrating Irish
coffee were supplemented with additional tidbits all year long.
It was almost like? If Delaplane had nothing new to say, he said it about Irish coffee.
---"A Postcard From Stan Delaplane," Reno Evening Gazetter [NV], March 17, 1954 (p. 4)
---"Stan Delaplane's Postcard...The Black and White of it," Bakersfield Californian, July 8, 1954 (p. 31)
Delaplane serves up a wee bit'o personal history regarding Shannon Airport's Irish Coffee inventor, Joe Sheridan.
Apparently the legendary beverage creator was also
a drinker who sometimes hit bottom. We learn Sheridan relocated to the USA, working in San Francisco, Waikiki & Chicago. There is no doubt
Delaplane's articles made Sheridan famous by association and thereby a desirable hire. We have no clue if Delaplane financed Sheridan's relocations, when they happened,
or why Sheridan moved from one place to another.
---"Stan Delaplane's Postcard: When Irish Eyes," Bakersfield Californian, March 17, 1955 (p. 29)
Time magazine reports the socio-economic phenomenon sparked by Irish coffee sales. Syndicated columnist Stan Delaplane published
his first personal encounter with Irish Coffee in 1954. One year later, Delaplane backdates experience to 1950, echoing tales already printed by less famous colleagues Othman
and Crane. "Black as Cromwell's heart" appears to be a standard Irish phrase; both Sheridan and Delaplane quote. Time is the only publication
referring to Joe Sheridan as a bartender. USA journalists took the liberty of elevating Sheridan to chef. We think
Time got it right. Fact neither Sheridan nor Delaplane in later years professed preference for Irish Coffee must mean something in retrospect.
---"Delaplane's Dew," Time, August 29, 1955 (p. 51)
Buena Vista Cafe prides itself as the American celebrity epicenter for Irish coffee drinkers.
---"Society Sips Irish Coffee at Buena Vista," San Mateo Times [CA], June 28, 1960 (p. 21A)
The first of several "the truth about Irish coffee" investigations.
Delaplane & O'Regan share Joe Sheridan's death. Tone is whistful, almost remoresful. It is not the festive Irish wake
we expected. We wonder why Sheridan disappeared from
Delaplane's personal radar while the columnist continued cashing in his story for 30 years. O'Regan was mentioned over the years
in management capacity at Shannon. Like Delaplane, O'Regan seems squirmy and uncomfortable here. Obviously, there
is more to this story. We give Delaplane & O'Regan kudos for having the guts to publish this tribute.
---"Late Joe Sheridan Invented Irish Coffee," Stan Delaplane, Lowell Sun [MA] November 22, 1966 p. 26)
In the USA, Joe Sheridan's spirit lived on.
---"Gaelic Coffee," Stan Delaplane, Bakersfield Californian, July 24, 1973 (p. 19)
In Ireland, Sheridan's memory collected dust in a back room.
---"A Shannon Shop Sells for Less," Stan Delaplane, Los Angeles Times, March 19, 1978 (p. E15)
Toward the end of his life, Delaplane shares his personal cup of nostalgia with a hit of wisdom.
Buena Vista's Irish Coffee
Farmer's Brothers coffee
3 lumps sugar
1 ounce Buena Vista (or Tullamore Dew) Irish whiskey
Fresh whipped cream
Fuill prewarmed, 6-ound bell-shaped fizz glass 2/3 full of fresh coffee. Add sugar and whiskey. Stir and then top with fresh
whipped cream. (Although the barman at the Buena Vista did not mention this, a little bit of sugar and vanilla can be added
to the cream brefore it is whipped; it's a sensuous touch.)"
---"Now Sip, Sip Hooray for Irish Coffee," Rhyder McClure, Los Angeles Times, March 17, 1983 (p. J1)
[NOTE: The Irish Coffee Story, as told by The Buena Vista Cafe, San
Francisco.]
Bert Greene's "truth about Irish coffee" echoes Ward's investigation published 20 years prior. Variables on the
"truth about" Irish coffee theme include (1) year: late 1930s, 1938, 1942, 1945, 1948, 1949 (2) place: Foyne's Flying Boat Basin, Shannon Airport
(same establishment, known by different names in different years, like Idelwild and JFK) (3) time of day: always dark (sometimes predawn other times
late night).
---"Setting the Record Straight on the True History of an Old Irish Favorite," Bert Greene's Kitchen, Los Angeles Times,
November 23, 1984 (p. Q12)
Stan Delaplane's obituary seals the lid forever on his Irish coffee connection.
---"Obituaries, Stanton Delaplane; Award-Winning Trave Columnist," Times Staff, Los Angeles Times, April 19, 1988 (p. C25)
[NOTE: Mr. Delaplane was awarded 1941 Pulitzer Prize for reporting "The Free State of Jefferson," four
Nothern California counties and one Oregon county that threatened to break away and form a 49th state in a dispute over
highway construction in the gold and copper mining areas.]
Lemonade
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p.
188)
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford
University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 30-1)
"Lemonade. A beverage made from the juice of the lemon, for the purpose of allaying thirst. It is also used for medicinal purposes, when it is made either hot or
cold, according to the complaint. The vendors of lemonade use citric or tartaric acid, or even a few drops of sulfuric acid, to make their mixture, and only slice a
few lemons to float on the surface and please the eye. Most of the lemonade powders declared to be pure, are made in a similar way. Reliable brands of lime-juice
are preferable, unless the fresh fruit is at hand."
---The Grocer's Companion and Merchant's Hand-Book [New England Grocer Office:Boston] 1883 (p. 74-5)
, Buckeye Cookery and Practical Housekeeping
"How to make Lemonade
It is made several waies, according to the diversity of the ingredients. For to make it with Jasmin,
you must take of it about two handfull, infuse it in two or three quarts of water the space of eight
or ten houres; then to one quart of water you shall put six ounces of sugar. Those of orange
flowers, of muscade roses, and of gelliflowers, are made after the same way. For to make that of
lemon, take some lemons, cut them, and take out the juice, cut it into slices, put it among this
juice, and some sugar proportionately. That of orange is made the same way."
---The French Cook, Francoise Pierre, La Varenne, Englished by I.D.G. 1653, introduced
by Philip and Mary Hyman [Southover Press:East Sussex] 2001 (p. 238-9)
"Lemonade for the same use. To one quart of boiled water add the juice of six lemons, rub
the rinds of the lemons with sugar to your own taste. When the water is near cold mix the juice
and sugar with it, then bottle it for use."
---The Experienced English Housekeeper, Elizabeth Raffald, (1769), with an introduction
by Roy Shipperbottom [Southover Press:East Sussex] 1997 (p. 172)
"To Make Sirrup of Leamons. First cut your leamons in 2 & pick out ye [the] stones & prick
them well with a knife, & ye Juice will come out ye better. Then wring them as long as you can
get out any Juice, & to every pinte of it take a pound of sugar. Set them on ye fire together &
make them boyle as fast as you can, to a thin sirrup, for If you boyle it too much, it will candy
presently. It will require a great many leamons to make a pound."
---Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess [Columbia
University Press:New York] 1995 (p. 370-1)
[NOTE: Karen Hess adds this note: "On the medicinal virtues of lemons, Gerard says: "Two
poundes of the juyce of Limons, mixed with the like quantity of the spririt of wine...and drunk at
the first approach of the fit of an ague, taketh away the shaking presently." He cautions, however,
taht "the Patient be covered warme in a bed, and caused to sweat."
"Delicious Milk Lemonade. Dissolve six ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water, and
mix with them a quarter of a pint of lemon-juice, and the same quantity of sherry; then add
three-quarters of a pint of cold milk, stir the whole well together, and pass it thorugh a jelly-bag
till
clear."
---Modern Cookery for Private Families, Eliza Acton (1845) with an introduction by
Elizabeth Ray [Southover Press:East Sussex] 1993 (p. 481)
"Lemonade. Steep the peel of 6 lemons in 1 quart of syrup at 35 degrees F.; Press out the
juice of the lemons; add 2 quarts of water, and filter the whole through a jelly-bag with some
paper; Strain the syrup through a silk sieve; mix it with the filtered juice, and pour the Lemonade
into glass jugs."
---Royal Cookery Book, Jules Gouffre, translated from the French and adapted for
English use by Alphonse Gouffe [Sampson Low, Son, and Marston:London] 1869 (p. 567)
Lemonade
"Lemonade.--Squeeze the juice from one lemon and add one tablespoonful of sugar. Pour on
one cup of boiling water, and cool. Or take hot for a cold, after retiring."
---Boston Cooking School Cook Book, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln (facsimile 1884 reprint) [Dover
Publications:Mineola NY] 1996 (p. 420)
"Effervescing Lemonade.--Boil two pounds of white sugar with one pint of lemon juice;
bottle and cork. Put a tablespoonful of syrup into a tumbler about three parts of cold water, add
twenty grains of carbonate of soda, and drink quickly."
---Modern Home Cook Book: With Helps and Hints for the Household [Hurst &
Company:New York] 1891 (p. 72)
"Lemonade.--Use three large or four medium-sized lemons for each quart of water and from
six to eight tablespoonfuls of sugar. Rub or squeeze the lemons till soft. Cut a slice or two from
each, and extract the juice with a lemon drill; strain the juice through a fine wire strainer to
remove the seeds of the pulp, and pour it over the sugar. Add the slices lemon, pour over all a
very little boiling water to thoroughly dissolve the sugar; let it stand ten or fifteen minutes, then
add the necessary quantity of cold water, and serve. Or rub the sugar over the outside of the
lemons to flavor it, and make it into a syrup by adding sufficient boiling water to dissolve it.
Extract and strain the lemon juice, add the prepared syrup and the requisite quantity of cold
water, and serve."
---Science in the Kitchen, Mrs. E.E. Kellogg [Modern Medicine Publishing Co.:Battle
Creek, MI] 1892 (p. 362)
"Lemonade. Lemonade whould be made in the proportion of one lemon to each large goblet.
Squeeze the lemons and take out any seeds. If you do not like the pulp strain the juice. Sweeten
the drink well though that is a matter of taste. The pleasant tart taste should be preserved. Add
water to the juice and when serving put cracked ice and a thin slice of lemon into each glass.
E.J.C."
---The Blue Ribbon Cook Book, Annie R. Gregory [Monarch Book Company:Chicago
IL] 1906 (p. 344)
"Lemonade.
4 lemons
4 tablespoonfuls sugar
1 qt. Water, or a bottle of Apollinaris
Four lemons, rolled, peeled, and sliced; four large spoonfuls of sugar; one quart of water. Put
lemons (sliced) and sugar into a pitcher and let them stand for an hour, then add water and ice. If
you substitute Apollinaris for plain water you have a most refereshing drink."
---The American Home Cook Book, Grace E. Denison [Barse & Hopkins:New York]
1913 (p. 454)
"Lemonade. Lemonade is entitled to the first place on the list of fruit beverags, refreshing as
it is in itself, and capable as it is of numerous variations. Proportions for mixing are 3 times as
much sugar as lemon juice, and 6 times as much water, but it may be wise to hold back part of the
sugar until after mixing, in case it should be too sweet. It is quite easy to add more sugar, but not
so easy to add more lemon juice and water. In hot weather it is most convenient to have lemonade
syrup "on tap." It will keep in the refrigerator for a week."
---What and How: A Practical Cook Book for Every Day Living [Greenwood Book
Shop:Wilmington DE] 1920 (p. 27)
"Lemonade or Orangeade.
2 tablespoons sugar
Juice of 1/2 lemon or orange
1 cup water
Mix and stir until dissolved. Or boil sugar and water to a syrup, cool, add to juice. Serve hot or
cold."
---The Settlement Cook Book, Mrs. Simon Kander [Settlement Cook Book
Co.:Milwaukee WI] 1936 (p. 36)
"Lemonade (Basic Recipe)
3/4-1 c. Granulated sugar
5 c. Water
3/4 c. Lemon juice
Skins 3 lemons
Combine sugar, 1 c. water and skins left after squeezing lemon juice. Simmer, covered, 6 min.
Cool. Squeeze out skins and discard. Add lemon juice and remaining 4 c. Water. Carbonated
water may be substituted for this water. Serve well iced with lemon slice garnish. Serves 4-5. Crn
Syrup may replace half the sugar."
---The Good Housekeeping Cookbook, New edition, completely revised [Farrar,
Rinehart:New York] 1944 (p. 81)
"Lemonade. Combine in saucepan 1 cup sugar, 1 cup water, rind of 2 lemons, cut into pieces.
Stir over low heat until sugar is dissolved. Boil about 1 min. Strain; discard rind. Cool. Add...1
cup fresh or frozen lemon juice (45 6o 6 lemons), 4 cups water (1 qt.). Pour over ice in pitcher or
tall glasses. Amount: 6 to 8 servings."
---Betty Crocker's Picture Cook Book, revised and enlarged, Second edtion [McGraw
Hill:New York] 1956 (p. 74)
"Lemonade
HOMEMADE: Combine 2 cups lemon juice, 4 teasp. Grated lemon rind, 1 1/2 cups granulated
sugar. Pour into glass jar; cover. Keep on hand in refrigerator.
To serve: Allow 1/4 cup syrup for each glass. Fill with ice cubes and water. (Nice tinted
pink with grenadine.) Makes 2 2/3 cups syrup.
JIFFY:Just open a can of frozen or canned lemonade or pink lemonade concentrate; add water
and ice as label directs; enjoy a pitcherful of luscious lemonade in no time at all."
---The Good Housekeeping Cookbook, Dorothy B. Marsh [Good Housekeeping:New
York] 1963(p. 684)
"Fresh Lemonade.
3 lemons, 3/4 cup sugar, Ice cubes, Maraschino cherries with stems, drained.
1. With a sharp knife, very thinly slice lemons crosswise. Discard end slices and seeds.
2. Put lemon slices into a large bowl or sturdy pitcher. Add the sugar.
3. With a wooden spoon or potato masher, pound until the sugar is dissolved and slices are
broken.
4. Add 1 tray of ice cubes and 2 cups cold water. Stir until very cold.
5. To serve: Pour lemonade, along with lemon slices, into glasses. Garnish each glass with a
cherry.
Makes 5 cups, or 4 tall glasses."
---The New McCall's Cookbook, Mary Eckly, food editor of McCall's [Random
House:New York] 1973 (p. 72)
PDQ
According to the records of the US Patent & Trademark Office, PDQ brand granular beverage mix was introduced to the American public
January 23, 1962. The original manufacturer was Krim-Ko Corporation, Bensenville Illinois. The mark was later acquired by
the National Sugar Board and finally Sandoz (now Novartis). There were two variations on this mark: Choco Chips (1972)
and Berry Bits (1973). All of these marks are "dead," indicating the item is no
longer in production.
Records of the US Patent Office indicate Krim-Ko was experimenting with chocolate milk flavoring processes as early as
1941. Irish moss was the "secret" ingredient.
?
"PDQ Beads Chocolate, 14 oz can,"---Columbus Daily Telegram [OH], September 25, 1963 (p. 17)
"National Sugar Refining Co. directors agreed to the acquisition of Krim-Ko Corp...Krim-Ko makes chocolate and eggnogg flavorings for
milk under the PDQ brand."---"National Sugar Board Backs Plan to Acquire Privately Held Krim-Ko," Wall Street Journal, August 27, 1965
(p. 3)
"The National Sugar Refining Company, the crowd that produces Jack Frost Sugar and PDQ chocolate additive, is placing its
advertising future in the hands of Solow-Wexton. This just happens to be the agency for No-Cal sodas, flavoring and sugar substitutes. Ah, sweet
mystery of business. 'Of course, there really should be no conflict, says Marty Solow, agency president. 'The per capita
consumption of sugar, 97 pounds per person, has not gone down in the past five years. As a matter of fact, the projection is for
increased sales, oddly enough of sugar-free sodas.'"---"Advertising:: Times Square of Ted Bates," Philip Dougherty, New
York Times, July 7, 1969 (p. 48)
[Full page ad published November 9, 1969]
"Dessert. Take a big cocktail glass. Dip ice cream into the glass. Put a little bit of PDQ (like you use to make cocoa) on the
ice cream. Put more ice cream and PDQ--until it gets pretty full. Then you put a cherry on top!!"---"Kindergarten Recipe
Book Guarantees Enjoyable Reading," Pharoh-Tribune and Press [Logansport IN], March 3, 1971 (p. 3)
"PDQ Choc. beads, 9 1/2 oz jar, 89 cents."---Valley Independent [PA], November 17, 1980 (p. 22)
"Word Mark P.D.Q. Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 030. US 046. G & S: SOLID FOOD FLAVORING MATERIAL IN GRANULAR FORM.
FIRST USE: 19620123. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19620821 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 72168420 Filing Date
May 8, 1963 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0798139 Registration Date October 26, 1965 Owner
(REGISTRANT) KRIM-KO CORPORATION CORPORATION ILLINOIS 26 N. GARDEN ST. BENSENVILLE ILLINOIS
(LAST LISTED OWNER) SANDOZ NUTRITION CORPORATION CORPORATION ASSIGNEE OF DELAWARE 5320 W. 23RD STREET
MINNEAPOLIS MINNESOTA 55440 Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL
Affidavit Text SECT 15. Renewal 1ST RENEWAL 19851026 Live/Dead Indicator DEAD"
?
The origins of pink lemonade is a curious thing. Legendary concensus credits Henry E. Allott, a circus vendor, for accidentally inventing this drink. Our survey of
American newspapers and cookbooks reveals several period references for coloring lemonade with pink or red fruit. Most notably watermelon, raspberries,
cherries, currants, and strawberries. Which came first? It's hard to say.
---"Inventor of Pink Lemonade Dead," New York Times, September 18, 1912 (p. 11)
---"When Lemonade Was Pink," Washington Post, September 29, 1912 (p. M3)
[1879]
"That man selling pink "lemonade" at a stand in front of the bear's cage, was the "bar" keeper."
---"Five Minutes With the News," Wheeling Register [West Virginia], May 16, 1879 (p. 4)
[1863]
"Lemonade or Orangeade
Put two ounces of loaf sugar in a quart of water, also the rind of an orange or of one lemon. Half an hour after strain the whole, and press into it the juice of the
orange, and a few drops of lemon juice. If found too strong, add water and sugar. It is a very good drink in summer, or for evening parties. A little currant jelly may
be added to make a variety."
---What to Eat and how to Cook It, Pierre Blot [D. Appleton and Company:New York] 1863 (p. 18)
[NOTE: currants are red or black berries. When crushed, as in for jelly, the resulting color varies from deep red to pink.]
[1887]
"...we might cut a watermelon and stir up a tubful of pink lemonade."
---"The Glorious Fourth," Atlanta Constitution, June 13, 1887 (p. 4)
"Pink Lemonade. Add to a pint of Lemonade prepared in the usual manner half a cup of fresh or canned strawberry, red raspberry, currant or cranberry
juice. It gives a pretty color besides adding a pleasing flavor."
---Science in the Kitchen, Mrs. E.E. Kellogg [Modern Medicine Publishing Co.:Battle Creek, MI] 1892 (p. 362)
What were "cordials?"
Cordials, also known as cordial waters, were medicinal tonics concocted at home for "what ails you." Recipes vary, though most
are fruit flavored.
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2nd edition, 2006 (p. 216)
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New YOrk] 2004, volume 1 (p. 339)
Diet soda
NO-CAL (KIRSCH)
DIET-RITE (NEHI/ROYAL CROWN) & COTT SUGAR FREE BEVERAGES
---"Abreast of the Market," Wall Street Journal, August 3, 1956 (p. 15)
---display ad, Chicago Tribune, August 9, 1956 (p. N7)
---"'Round the Food Stores: For a Look at the Latest Ideas,"
Lois Baker, Chicago Daily Tribune, February 8, 1963 (p. B8)
---"Out, Pesky Tarnish...," Dorothea Pattee, Washington Post, May 10, 1953 (p. S11)
---display ad,Washington Post, May 22, 1953 (p. 17).
[NOTE: flavors listed in this ad are: Pale Dry Ginger, Concord Delite, Root Beer, Cola,
Cream Soda & Raspberry.]
---"Soda Pop: Soft Drink Companies Styep Up Tests of Cans, Bigger Bottle Sizes," Doyle Smee and Kenneth Smith,
Wall Street Journal, November 22, 1954 (p. 1)
PATIO DIET COLA (PEPSI) & TAB (COCA-COLA)
---"Advertising: Low-Calorie Soft Drinks," Peter Bart, New York Times, Feburary 20, 1963 (p. 18).
---"Beverage Maker Seeks Court Help: Hoffman Asks Arrangement Under Bankruptcy Act," Clare M. Reckert,
New York Times, September 22, 1964 (p. 55)
Ice tea
---Beyond the Ice Cream Cone: The Whole Scoop on Food at the 1904 World's Fair, Pamela J., Vaccaro [Enid Press:St. Louis MO] 2004 (p. 109)
[1861]
"Balm and Burrage Tea
These, as well as all other medicinal herbs, may easily be cultivated in a corner of your
garden...Take a balm and burrage a small handful each, put this into a jug, pour in upon the herbs
a quart of boiling water, allow the tea to stand for ten minutes, and then strain it off into another
jug, and let it become cold. This cooling drink is recommended as a beverage for persons whose
system has become heated for any cause."
---A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes, Charles Elme Francatelli, London
[1861] (p. 92)
[Note: Mr. Francatelli was the head chef for Queen Victoria. He is often credited for introducing
many popular Victorian food dishes and trends.]
---Craig Claiborne's The New York Times Food Encyclopedia, compiled by Joan Whitman
[Times Books:New York] 1985 (p. 223)
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New
York] 1999 (p. 323)
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford
University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 530)
[1877]
Iced tea and Lemon iced
tea
Iced Tea, or Russian Tea
"Iced tea...Is now served to a considerable extent during the summer months. It is of course
used without milk, and the addition of sugar serves only to destroy the finer tea flavor. It may be
prepared some hours in advance, and should be made stronger than when served hot. It is bottled
and placed in the ice-chest till required. Use the black or green teas, or both, mixed, as
fancied."
---White House Cook Book, Mrs. F. L. Gillette, [L.P. Miller:Chicago] 1887 (p. 410)
"Iced tea. The tea that is to be used for the day's conumption should be made in the early
morning and in just the same way that it is made to be served hot. The quantity depends upon the
number of persons to be served, and in hot weather this might well be multiplied by three. The
best blend of tea for serving cold is equal parts orange Pekoe and English breakfast. This blend
does not lose strength in standing but ripens and softens in flavor. Tea must never be boiled. To
make it as it should be, take fresh cold water, bring quickly to the "bubbling" boil, and let it
continue several minutes. Scald out the teapot, which should be clean and dry, and measure into it
as many level teaspoonfuls tea as cups will be required. Pour the furiously boiling water over the
tea leaves and let steep on the back of the range four or five minutes, then strain off into a pitcher
to cool. When quite cold set in the ice box. By drawing the tea off the leaves when just the proper
strength it will be fresh and sweet, without the bitter taste of tannin it gets if allowed to stand too
long on the leaves. Keep the pitcher set close to the ice or pour the tea in bottles and lay directly
on the ice, thus offering more surface for cooling. When ready to serve, if the ice is above
suspicion, break into pieces about the size of horse chestnuts, put in the glasses and pour the tea
over them. If dependent upon the ordinary unsanitary ice, rinse the glasses out in cold water to
make them cold, then fill with the culled tea but no ice. Slices of lemon, a whole clove dripped in
each cup of tea as poured, a bit of pineapple, a sprig of mint or a peppermint cream are among the
popular additions to iced tea."
---The Evening Telegram Cook Book, Emma Paddock Telford [Cupples & Leon:New
York] 1908 (p. 188)
Sun Tea; iced tea alternative
---"Tea Made with Cold Water," Los Angeles Times, November 8, 1894 (p. 5)
Milk
---Nature's Perfect Food: How Milk Became America's Drink, E. Melanie DuPuis [New York University Press:New York] 2002 (p. 46)
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 212)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
503)
---Oxford Companion to Food (p. 145)
---Cambridge World History of Food, Kenneth F. Kiple & Kriemhild Conee Ornelas
[Cambridge
University Press:Cambridge], Volume One, 2000 (p. 490-2)
---Food in History, Reay Tannahill [Three Rivers Press:New York] 1988 (p. 27-8)
---History of Food, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat, translated by Anthea Bell [Barnes &
Noble
Books:New York] 1992 (p. 113-4)
---Food in the Ancient World from A to Z, Andrew Dalby [Routledge:London] 2003 (p.
217-8)
---Siren Feasts: A History of Food and Gastronomy in Greece, Andrew Dalby
[Routledge:London] 1996 (p. 65-6)
---Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age to the 19th Century, C. Anne Wilson
[Academy
Chicago: Chicago] 1991 (p. 62-3)
---Food and Drink in Britain (p. 149)
---Food and Drink in Britain (p. 78)
---Food and Drink in Britain (p. 156-7)
Milk and chocolate combinations were promoted in the late 19th/early 20th century as healthy food for infants and invalids.
Chocolate flavored puddings/custards, malteds (malt being rich in vitamin B complex), sodas, and commercial beverages were embraced by restaurants, soda
fountains, and food manufacturers.
Yoo Hoo chocolate drink is introduced to the American public:
---Synthetic Soft Drinks Must be Labeled and Contents Told or Suffer State Ban, New York Times, June 8, 1925 (p. 3)
“Mavis Chocolate Drink. Listen Dealers! Mavis has more real value than any other 5 cent drink sold in bottles. One bttle of
Mavis costs as much to make as two bottles of many other 5cent bottled drink. Mavis is superior to all other 5cent bottled
drinks from the standpoint of (1) Deliciousness (2) Refereshment (3) Nutriment (4) Food Value (5) Ingredients (6) Purity.
Now--a Word to the Public! Mavis is made of pure chocoalte...honey...sugar and other wholesome ingredients. Mavis is as
delicious as any 10cent or 15cent chocoalte milk drink sold at soda fountains. Mavis is sold in bottles only...Mavis is
different from other 5cent bottled drinks. Mavis contains NO acids. NO coloring matter. NO drugs. NO preservatives. Mavis
doesn’t imitate anything. Mavis is Real! Mavis is so pure, delicious, wholesome and divestible that the smallest tots
thrive on it. Mavis builds their little bodies into strong, sturdy youngsters and brings bloom to their cheeks. As a
refreshing bracer...Mavis is the idea drink for man, woman or child...Mavis quenches thirst and satisfies hunger between
meals, because a 5cent bottle of Mavis contains as much food value in calories as a glass of Grade A Milk...Mavis is
sterilized and pasteurized in the bottle...Sold Direct to the Trade Only by Mavis Bottling Co. Of New York.”
---Mavis company adverstisement, New York Times, June 2, 1928 (p. 7)
Choco Milk brand powdered product is introduced:
Word Mark CHOCO MILK Goods and Services (CANCELLED) IC 030. US 046. G & S: PREPARATION IN POWDERED FORM CONTAINING MILK,
COCOA, AND MALT FOR USE IN MAKING A NUTRITIOUS BEVERAGE. FIRST USE: 19300102. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19300102
Kelco brand chocolate milk:
Word Mark KELCO Goods and Services IC 030. US 046. G & S: ALGIN PRODUCT SOLD DIRECT IN BULK TO MANUFACTURERS AND TO
JOBBERS FOR RESALE TO MANUFACTURERS FOR USE AS A HYDROPHILIC COLLOID POSSESSING STABILIZING, THICKENING, SUSPENDING,
EMULSIFYING, GEL-FORMING AND WATER HOLDING PROPERTIES IN ICE CREAM, ICED MILK, SHERBETS, WATER ICES, CHOCOLATE MILK,
CONFECTIONERIES SUCH AS CANDY JELLIES, FRUIT JELLIES, CHEESE, SALAD DRESSING, PUDDINGS, DEHYDRATED FOODS, MEAT PRODUCTS,
BAKERY PRODUCTS SUCH AS BREAD, MERINGUE, ICINGS, AND OTHER FOOD PRODUCTS. FIRST USE: 19300201. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE:
19300201 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Design Search Code Serial Number 71462315 Filing Date July 26, 1943 Current
Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0416387 Registration Date September 11, 1945 Owner
(REGISTRANT) KELCO COMPANY CORPORATION DELAWARE SAN DIEGO CALIFORNIA (LAST LISTED OWNER) CP KELCO U.S., INC. CORPORATION
DELAWARE 1000 PARKWAY CIRCLE, SUITE 1000 ATLANTA NEW JERSEY 30339
Bowman brand chocolate milk
Word Mark BOWMAN Goods and Services IC 029 030. US 046. G & S: FRESH MILK, BUTTERMILK, CHOCOLATE MILK DRINK, CREAM [
BUTTER, EGGS, ICE CREAM, SHERBETS, ICES, POWDERED MILK, POWDERED BUTTERMILK, AND A BAKING COMPOUND CONSISTING OF MILK INGREDIENTS, CEREALS, AND SPICES ]. FIRST USE: 19390101. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19390101 Mark Drawing Code (3) DESIGN PLUS WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS... Registration Number 0511736 Registration Date July 5, 1949 Owner (REGISTRANT) BOWMAN DAIRY COMPANY CORPORATION ILLINOIS 140 WEST ONTARIO STREET CHICAGO 10 ILLINOIS (LAST LISTED OWNER) DEAN FOODS COMPANY CORPORATION ASSIGNEE OF DELAWARE 3600 NORTH RIVER ROAD FRANKLIN PARK ILLINOIS 60131
Southern Dairies brand chocolate milk
Word Mark SOUTHERN DAIRIES Goods and Services IC 030. US 046. G & S: ICE CREAM, ICES, SHERBETS, [ FLUID MILK, CREAM, BUTTERMILK, ] BUTTER [ , EGGS, COTTAGE CHEESE, SKIM MILK, ICE MILK, AND CHOCOLATE MILK DRINK, THE LATTER BEING SOLD AS A FOOD BEVERAGE ]. FIRST USE: 19350000. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19350000 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED FORM Design Search Code Serial Number 71479999 Filing Date February 19, 1945 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Published for Opposition May 6, 1947 Change In Registration CHANGE IN REGISTRATION HAS OCCURRED Registration Number 0431562 Registration Date July 29, 1947 Owner (REGISTRANT) SOUTHERN DAIRIES, INC. CORPORATION DELAWARE 60 M ST., N.E. WASHINGTON D.C. (LAST LISTED OWNER) UNILEVER SUPPLY CHAIN, INC. DELAWARE 1 JOHN STREET CLINTON CONNECTICUT 06413
Nestle’s Quik is introduced:
Word Mark NESTLE QUIK Goods and Services IC 030. US 046. G & S: POWDERED, SWEETENED COCOA INTENDED TO BE USED TO MAKE CHOCOLATE MILK, CHOCOLATE SAUCE, CHOCOLATE FROSTING, AND THE LIKE. FIRST USE: 19490531. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19490531 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED FORM Design Search Code Serial Number 71642363 Filing Date February 17, 1953 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0629231 Registration Date June 19, 1956 Owner (REGISTRANT) NESTLE COMPANY, INC., THE CORPORATION NEW YORK 2 WILLIAM ST. WHITE PLAINS NEW YORK (LAST LISTED OWNER) SOCIETE DES PRODUITS NESTLE S.A. CORPORATION ASSIGNEE OF SWITZERLAND CASE POSTALE 353 1800 VEVEY SWITZERLAND
“Some of those who ordinarily find their milk waiting for them on the doorstep in the morning will receive deliveries
today. Normal service is expected tomorrow. Few processord bothered yesterday with such items as cream or chocolate milk,
so intent were they on meeting the demand for milk.”
---”Milk Flowing Gere With Strike’s End,” Stanley Levey, New York Times, November 1, 1953 (p. 1)
PDQ, chocolate-flavored granules, introduced as an alternative to syrup and cocoa mix for mixing with milk.
“The list of items dispensed by the machines is lengthy: ice cream bars, ice cream drumsticks, ice cream sandwiches, ice
cream cups, malts, meat and cheese sandwiches, candy, soda pop in bottles and cans, pastry, pints of regular and chocolate
milk, cartons of orange drink, hot cocoa, hot coffee.”
---”Fill ‘er up! Now Means Car and Customers,” Susan Marsh, New York Times, January 4, 1970 (p. B12)
“The brown carton looks like a giant Hershey bar stood on its and and exploded full three dimensions. Sitting on the
cooler shelf among the unassuming quarts of milk, it assaults the eye like an Andy Warhol painting. It is this forceful
image, so well known that for years the Hershey Chocolate Company did not even advertise, that the company is counting on
to sell its first entry into the packaged beverage market: premixed chocolate milk. But Hershey is not alone. The Nestle
Company, also banking on the familiarity of its Nestle Quik brand name, distinctive logotype and yellow and brown
container, has also joined the race to dominate what is now a $363 million-a-year market for premixed chocolate milk.”
---“Hershey and Nestle Enter Milk Market, Paul Hemp, New York Times, August 23, 1983 (p. A1)
“Today’s children are unlikely to experience the simple joy of dribbling dark chocolate syrup on the pristine surface of a
glass of milk and watching it sink and later using a spoon to recapture the syrup at the bottom of the glass. Instead they
shake a container and pour some chocolate flavored drink or milk into a glass or, increasingly, poke a straw into a box.
If plain chocolate is not to their taste, they can choose chocolate-cherry, chocolate-caramel, or chocolate-marshmallow,
as well as strawberry, banana, banans split or root beer. If digesting milk gives them trouble, there is even a
lactose-reduced chocolate milk...”We see a lot of potential in the drink boxes, so we’re adding flavors,” said Bonnie
Hinkson of Hershey Foods in Hershey Pa., which introduced the shelf-stable milk boxes in 1990 and now makes them in six
flavors.”
---How Do Those Cows Do That? Times Chamge and Chocolate Milk Flows,” Florence Fabricant, New York Times, September
8, 1993
Milk containing various levels of fat has been sold from ancient times forward. Traditional grades carried descriptive
names: heavy cream, new milk, skimmed milk. Regulated milk fat grading expressed in percents, as we
Americans know it today, was promulgated by the US Dept. of Agriculture in 1977. These regulations can be found in the
Title 21, Code of Federal Regulations, part 131: Milk and Cream. Original notice can be found in the
Federal Register, March 15, 1977 (42 FR 14360).
---Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages, Anne Mendelson [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 2008 (p. 45-47)
---"Skimming the Milk Label," FDA Consumer, January-February
1998.
Our research indicates people have been skimming fat off milk from the beginning of time forwards. The skimmed rich fatty substance was traditionally churned into
butter or transformed into creamy cheeses. The leftover [skimmed] milk was traditionally regarded as inferior and discarded or consumed by the desperate poor.
Into the late 19th century, skim milk continued to be regarded as questionable dairy by-product: devoid of nutritional content, desirable taste, and economic
promise. Laws were passed to protect unsuspecting consumers against this chalky travesty being sold as "whole milk." Honest dairymen battled popular perception
for economic survival. Health officials successfully lobbied Congress to enact the first Food and Drug laws [1906] to ensure proper labeling and public health.
Impure milk was indeed a documented public health problem. The problem was not, however, connected with fat content.
I. 1. a. trans. To clear (a liquid or a liquid mass) from matter floating upon the surface, usually by means of a special utensil; to deprive (milk) of cream by this method; to deal with (a pot, etc.) in this way. Also absol. (Cf. SCUM v. 1.) c1420 Liber Cocorum (1862) 50 ou shalt hit frye, In buttur wele skymmet wyturly. c1430 Two Cookery-bks. 22 Caste alle on a potte, & skym yt. c1450 M.E. Med. Bk. (Heinrich) 71 e ridde part of hony, boiled and skemed. 1548 ELYOT, Despumo, to skimme or clarifie any licour. 1570 LEVINS Manip. 131 To Skimme, despumare. 1590 SHAKES. Mids. N. II. i. 36 Are you not hee That..Skim milke, and sometimes labour in the querne? 1611 COTGR., Escumer,..to skimme, or clarifie, liquor. 1744 BERKELEY Siris §1 The clear water, having been first carefully skimmed. 1771 E. HAYWOOD New Present for Maid 32 When it boils, skim it clean. 1826 Art Brewing (ed. 2) 114 Boil the first mash one hour... Then skim and cleanse. c1850 Arab. Nts. (Rtldg.) 643 Morgiana..put the pot on the fire to make the broth, but while she was skimming it the lamp went out. 1879 Cassell's Techn. Educ. IV. 49/1 When the lead is all melted it is skimmed, and then drawn off into the mould.
"[f. SKIM v. + MILK n.] 1. Milk with the cream skimmed off or otherwise removed. Also in fig. context. 1596 SHAKES. 1 Hen. IV, II. iii. 36 (Qq.), I could
deuide my selfe, and go to buffets, for mouing such a dish of skim milke [1623 folio skim'd Milk] with so honorable an action. a1712 W. KING Misc. Poems,
The Old Cheese, This is Skim-milk, and therefore it shall go. 1799 A. YOUNG Agric. Linc. 297 He..gives first new, then skim milk. 1808 CURWEN Econ.
Feeding Stock 63 The skim-milk was included in the butter account. 1851 MAYHEW Lond. Lab. I. 382/1 He lived principally upon ‘parritch’ and skim milk.
1897 Allbutt's Syst. Med. III. 132 If fat be removed from the milk as in ‘skim’ milk, rickets follows. fig. 1778 The Love Feast 11 Craft's blue skim-Milk is best
for Tools to lap. 1872 Punch 4 May 180/2 The genuine outpouring of the milk and cream, and none of the skim-milk of human kindness. 1898 Westm. Gaz. 14
Nov. 7/1 The idea prevailed that the cream had been extracted from the..revelations, leaving little but skim milk behind."
---"Skim-Milk in Illinois," New York Times, July 11, 1875 (p. 7)
---"Wonders of Skim-Milk," New York Times, September 14, 1881 (p. 8)
---"Dried Skim MIlk Seen As A Big War Asset," New York Times, March 10, 1942 (p. 14)
---"News of Food: Dry Skim Milk Recipes Prove So Popular Many Appearing in 1948 are Repeated," New York Times, December 31, 1948 (p. 18)
---"Powdered Milk Magic," Jane Nickerson, New York Times, October 17, 1954 (p. SM50)
---"Skim-Milk Sales Increases," New York Times, September 22, 1964 (p. 33)
---"Can Skim Milk Taste Like Whole Milk," New York Times, August 14, 1991 (p. D5)
Mint julep
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 173)
---Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 206)
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2(p. 117-118)
"In a footnote [John] Davis defines 'julep'...'A dram of spiritous liquor that has mint in it, taken by Virginians in the
morning.'"
---(p. 7)
[NOTE: footnote provides original reference: Travels of Four Years and a Half in the United States of America in 1798, 1799,
1800, 1801 and 1802, A.J. Morrison.]
"Juleps. The julep is peculiary an Americna beverage, and in the Southern states is more popular than any other. It was
introduced into England by Captain Marryatt, where it is now quite a favorite. The gallant captain seems to have had a penchant for
the nectareous drink, and published the recipe in his work on America. We got it in his own words: "I must decant a little upon the mint
julep, as it is, with the thermometer at 100 degrees, one of the most delightful and insinuating potations that ever was invented, and
may be drunk with equal satisfaction when the thermometer is as low as 70 degrees. There are many varieties, such as those composed of
claret, Madeira, &c.; but the ingredients of the real mint julep are as follows. I learned how to make them, and succeeded pretty well.
Put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint, upon them put a spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of
peach and common brandy, so as to fill it up one-third, or perhaps a little less. Then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up the
tumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumber with a piece of fresh pineapple, and the tumbler itself is very often incrusted outside
with stalactites of ice. As the ice melts, you drink. I once overheard two ladies taliking in the next room to me, and one of them
said, 'Well, if I have a weakness for any one thing, it is for a mint julep!'--a very amiable weakness, in fact, like the
American ladies, irresistable.'
(Use large bar glass)
1 table-spoonful of white pulverized sugar.
2 1/2 do ["do" means ditto, same measure as above]water, mix wll with a spoon.
Take three or four sprigs of fresh mint, and prress them well in the sugar and water, until the flavor of the mint is
extracted; add one and a half wine-glass of Cognac brandy, and fill the glass with fine shaved ice, then draw out the sprigs
of mint and insert them in the ice with the stems downward, so that the leaves will be above, in the shape of a bouquet; arrange
berries, and small pieces of sliced orange on top in a tasty manner, days with Jamaica rum, and sprinkle white sugar on top. Place
a straw as represented in the cut, and you have a julep that is fit for an emperor."
---How to Mix Drinks or The Bon-Vivant's Companion, Jerry Thomas, facsimile 1862 edition [Dick & Fitzgerald:New York] reprinted by VintageCocktailBooks.com 2008 (p. 43-44)
[NOTE: This book also offers recipes for Brandy Julep, Gin Julep, Whiskey Julep & Pineapple Julep.]
"Now, gentlemen, at long last are eight or so Mint Julep ceremonies--Being various adaptations of thi peerless American conception from all
parts of the world where it is properly revered. Right vrom the meaning of the word Juleps have been a spill-and-pelt of
contradition and disagreement...The very name itsle never was midwifed on any honeysuckle-bowered southern balcony, but comes from
the Persian gulab, or Arab julab, meaning rose water....No sane Kentucky planter, in full posession of his facultires will yield an inch
to any Marylander when it comes to admitting rye is superiour to bourbon in a Julep, when actually, a Julep is international and has
been international for years--just as the matters of radio and flying are international. It is a drink composed of whiskey or
brandy--and, of late--rum; sweetened, iced, and flavoured with aromatic leaves of the mentha familyh. So before the shooting starts let's
explain right here and now that there's no more chance of getting the various Julep schools to agree on fabrication of the most
delectiable of drinks, than we have of getting a proud Atlanta great-grandmother to concede General Sherman a nice, gentlye, well-meaining,
big boy. First of all there is the silver cup versus the glass school; the chilled glass versus room-temperature school; the slightly bruised mint
versus the all-brusied school; the rye versus the bourbon school; the fruit garnish versus the plain school. Feuds have begin because someone
breathed the possibility that city water would make a Julep as well as water dipped from a fern-draped Blue Grass spring.
Men have been shot att for heaping fruit juices, slices of citrus, and maraschino cherries on a Julep completed. Families have faced
divorcement about the slight-appearing concern of red-stemmed mint. A gentleman who discards the slightly bruised mint from
his drink views another who permits the bruised leaves to remain in the glass as one who did not have quite the proper forbearanced on
the distaff side...And so they tell the tale--Getting right down to cases, there is no more need for argument of violent nature along
such lines...On this matter of Juleps we can boast to a thorough Julep research, without pride or prejudice, for we have put in some years
of mightly clinical home-work on the matter!...But the best Julep of all, up to date---was mixed by Monk Antrim's...Manila Hotels, Luzon, P.I., and A.D.
1926."
---The Gentleman's Companion, Being an Exotic Drinking Book, Charles H. Baker, Jr. [Crown Publishers:New York] 1939, 1946 (p. 61-62)
---ibid (p. 67-6)
[NOTE: This book offers "a few common sense rules" for making perfect Juleps (9 rules in all), and Mint Julep recipes from Monk
Antrim's Manila Hotel (bourbon or rye), Santiago Cuba (Bacardi), Lamarr Peach Brandy Mint Julep, Peach Thunderbold (Georgia),
& Manila Polo Club (rum)]
Mulled drinks
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 641-2)
Punch
"Punch in Hindi means five, and the first paunch, and then punch, was the name that eventually settled on the five-component
drink made up at first of arrack, spices, sugar, lime juice and water. It was first noted by Mendelslo in AD 1638 as palepunzen in
Dutch, and became punch about fourty years later. In course of time, numerous recipes for the drink developed, including one with milk in
it, described in AD 1823 in Madras. Punch houses were set up on Goa by the Portuguese, and later in Calcutta and Madras."
---A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, K.T. Achaya [Oxford University Press:Delhi] 1998 (p. 201)
[NOTE: Arrack was a distilled spirit made with fermented rice and molasses. It was made in the Far East and Middle East.]
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 272-3)
---Early American Taverns: For the Entertainment of Friends and Strangers, Kym S. Rice [Regnery Gateway:Chicago] 1983 (p. 94-95)
---The Williamsburg Cookbook, commentary by Joan Parry Dutton [Colonial Williamsburg Foundation:Williamsburg VA], revised and enlarged, 1975 (p. 160-1)
The peel of 8 Oranges and 8 Lemons in 1 quart of rum. 3 Gallons of Water boild with 3 lb. of loaf Sugar and the Whites of 8 Eggs. 2 and 3/4 pints of orange juice
and 1 and 3/4 Pints of Lemon juice. strain the quart of rum from the Peel and add one Gallon more of rum to rest of the
ingredients."
---A Colonial Plantation Cookbook: The Receipt Book of Harriott Pinckney Horry, 1770, [South Carolina] edited with an
Introduction by Richard J. Hooker
[University of South Carolina Press:Columbia SC] 1984 (p. 139)
Weigh two and a half pounds of loaf sugar, put it in a a bowl, and poru on it two and a half table-spoonfuls of rose water. Grate the yellow peel from one dozen fine
oranges, and two lemons, and squeeze the juice into the bowl, add the grated peel, cover the bowl, and set it by till next day; then mix in a bottle of claret, or
champaign, pass it through a fine sieve, and stir well into it the whites of eight eggs, which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Serve it up in glasses, putting a lump of ice in each,
and grate nutmeg thickly over them; or you may freeze it, and serve it in glasses, providing each with a tea-spoon."
---Kentucky Housewife, Lettice Bryan, facsimile 1839 edition [Image Graphics:Paducah KY] (p. 406)
Take rum, or any nice kind of brandy, and dilute it to the strength you like it, with entire sweet milk, stirring it in gradually. Sweeten it to your taste with loaf sugar, flavor
it with a little capillary, and serve it up in glasses; drop a small lump of ice in each, and grate nutmeg thickly over
them."
---ibid (p. 405)
Pare very thin the yellow rinds from six oranges and six lemons, put them into three pints of water, and boil them till the water is reduced to one quart, and strain it into
a large bowl. Mix in two and a half pounds of loaf sugar, three pints of boiling sweet milk, and set it by to cool; then stir in gradually one quart of rum, or the best brandy, and the
juice from the decorticated lemons and oranges. It will keep well for several months, put up in bottles, and when you wish to make use of it, serve it up in glasses, mixing in a
few beaten whites of eggs, and grating nutmeg on the top."
---ibid (p. 406-7)
Make a pint and a half of very strong tea in the usual manner; strain it, and pour it boiling on one pound and a half of loaf sugar. Add half a pint of very rich cream, and
then stir in gradually a bottle of claret or of champaign. You may heat it to the boiling point, and serve it so, or you
may send it round entirely cold, in glass cups."
---ibid (p. 407)
Root beer
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford
University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 372-3)
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani
[Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 300)
[1798]
, The Grocer's Encyclopedia
"For Brewing Spruce Beer," American Cookery, Amelia Simmons
"Beer," American Frugal Housewife, Lydia Maria Child [NOTE: Mrs. Child offers
considers
beer a healthy family drink.]
"Spruce Beer," The Virginia House-wife, Mary Randolph [also includes ginger beer and
molasses
beer]
"Root Beer: For each gallon of water to be used, take hops, burdock, yellow dock,
sarsaparilla, dandelion, and spikenard roots, bruised, of each 1/2 oz.; boil about 20 minutes, and
strain while hot, add 8 or 10 drops of oils of spruce and sassafras mixed in equal proportions,
when cool enough not to scald your hand, put in 2 or 3 table-spoons of yeast; molasses two-thirds
of a pint, or white sugar 1/2 lb. Gives it about the right sweetness. Keep these proportions for as
many gallons as yo wish to make. You can use more or less of the roots to suit our taste after
trying it; it is best to get the dry roots, or dig them and let them get dry, and of course you can
add any other root known to possess medicinal properties desired in the beer. After all is mixed,
let it stand in a jar with a cloth thrown over it, to work about two hours, then bottle and set in a
cool place. This is a nice way to take alteratives, without taking medicine. And families ought to
make it every Spring, and drink freely of it for several weeks, and thereby save, perhaps, several
dollars in doctors' bills."---Dr. Chase's Recipes, 1869"
---Early American Beverages, John Hull Brown [Bonanza Books:New York]1966 (p.
101)
"Root Beer.--A non-alcoholic drink made from extracts of various roots and prepared for the
fountain by the addition of syrup and carbonated water. This class includes Ottawa beer,
sarsaprilla, and similar beverages which do not require the addition of cream and are mixed from
syrup and carbonated water. It is the common practice to carbonate such beverages in tanks and
draw them from the draught arm of the fountain, or from a special dispenser."
---The Dispenser's Formualry, compiled by The Soda Fountain Trade Magazine, [Soda
Fountain Publications:New York] 1925, 4th edition (p. 29)
shrub
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002
(p. 312)
---Food and Drink in Britain From the Stone Age to the 19th Century, C. Anne Wilson [Academy Broadway:Chicago IL] 1991 (p. 401)
---
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, volume 1 (p. 534)
To each quart of ripe red raspberries, put one quart of best French brandy, let it
remain about a week, then strain it through a sieve or bag, presssin out all the liquid;
when you have got as much as you want, reduce the strength to your taste with water,
and put a pound of powdered loaf sugar to each gallon; let it stand till refined.
Strawberry cordial is made the same way. It destroys the flavour of these fruits to put
them on the fire."
Put a quart of ripe red raspberries in a bowl; our on them a quart of strong well-flavoured vinegar, let them stand 24 hours, strain them through a bad, put this liquid
on another quart of fresh raspberries, whcih strain in the same manner, and then on a
third quart; when this last is prepared, make it very sweet with pounded sugar; refine
and bottle it. It is a delicious beverage mixed with ice water."
---The Virginia House-wife, Mary Randolph, with historical notes and commentaries
by Karen Hess [University of South Carolina Press:Columbia] 1984 (p. 215)
smoothies
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith [Oxford
University Press:New York] 2004 (p. 534)
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith [Oxford
University Press:New York] 2004 (p. 750-1)
---"Health-Conscious Consumers Propel Local Sales of Smoothies," Stephanie Riegel, New
Orleans City Business, March 25, 1991, Vol 11; No 19; Sec 1; pg 17
---"Smart Smoothies!" Deanna Efird, Better Nutrition, April 2000 (p. 34)
---"Smooth shakes," Alan J. Wax, Newsday (New York, NY), July 29, 1998
(p.B14)
Switchel
---A Dictionary of Americanisms on Historical Principles, Mitford M. Mathews editor [University of
Chicago Press:Chicago] 1951 (p. 1695)
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York]
1999 (p. 320)
---"Harvesting in Old New England Made Gay by Serving Switchel," New York Times, June 16,
1929 (p. XX2)
---"A Forgotten Drink," New York Times, May 24, 1931 (p. SM9)
"'Harvest Drink. Mix with five gallons of good water, half a gallon of molasses, one quart of vinegar, and two ounces of
powdered ginger. This will make not only a very pleasant beverage, but one highly invigorating and healthful.'---From
Practical American Cookery and Domestic Economy, by Miss Hall, 1855, page 117....Swanky was a seagoing switchel...Similar in purpose to modern sports drinks, it slakes thirst and provdes a bit of
sugary energy. Molasses is high in minerals as well. This recipe yields close to six gallons, which would be about right for a
crew of people haying in summer months or a schooner full of handliners. The proportions for roughly a quart and a half are as follows:
five cups water, half a cup of molasses, a quarter cup of vinegar, and three teaspoons of ginger. One of our testers remarked
that the swanky 'tastes like something that's good for you.' You may want to sample it after mixing and add additional water
to taste. We liked it best when the water had been doubled."
---Saltwater Foodways: New Englanders and their food, at sea and ashore, in the nineteeth century, Sandra L. Oliver
[Mystic Seaport Museum:Mystic CT] 1995(p. 146-147)
Harvest Beer,
Domestic Cookery/Lea
Grandmother's Harvest Drink
, Buckeye Cookery/Wilcox
Tomato juice
---Souper Tomatoes: The Story of America's Favorite Food, Andrew F. Smith [Rutgers University Press:New Brunswick NJ] 2000 (p. 92-93)
"Tomato Juice Valuable. Tomato juice will remove ink stains from linen."
---Chicago Defender, October 25, 1913 (p. 3)
"The first thing you should know about tomatoes is that when oranges are very expensive and the baby must have orange juice, that
very often the physician will let you use tomato juice instead."
---"Tomatoes Rich in Vitamines," Los Angeles Times, September
30, 1922 (p. I16).
"Twenty-five years ago this month, canned tomato juice was introduced to consumers. It appeared after four years of proccessing
research by the kemp Brothers Packing Comapny of Frankfort, Ind., which had in mind the development of a new baby food. But the
infants turned out to be a minor market as compared with the appeal 'liquid tomato' had on the general trade in groceries and on
restaurants. From the pack of about 1,5000,000 cases in 1930, tomato juice has swelled to an output that this year is expected to toatl 28,500,000
cases. The United States Department of Agriculture found a few years ago that this juice was purchased more often than any other
canned single-strength juice. About 44 per cent of the famlies in the United States bought it. The success story of this product
stems not only form its attractive tang and tint, but also from the fact that canned tomato juice is both cheap and high in
nutrients. At a current cost of 29 cnets for a forty-six ounce can, the juice costs about 2 1/2 cents for a half-cup serving. This
quantity supplies aobut a fourth of the Vitamin A and C needs of the physically active amn....Largely consumed exclusively
in this country (a little is exported to Cuba and Canada), tomat juice is primarily a berverage. But, on occasion, it supplies the
liquid for an aspic, is heated to provide a bracing hot soup...and takes the place of other liquids in cheese soufles, main dish
dumplings and meat stews."
---"News of Food: Canned Tomato Juice on Market 25 Years," Jane Nickerson, New York Times, October 13, 1953 (p. 32)
Ice
---Pickled, Potted and Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Preserving Changed the
World,
Sue Shepard [Simon & Schuster:New York] 2000 (p. 280-5)
[NOTE: This book contains far more information than can be paraphrased here. Your librarian
will be happy to help you obtain a copy.]
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford
University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 1 (p. 700-1)
American Ice Harvests: A Historical Study in Techology, 1800-1918/Richard O. Cummings
...includes industry statistics, illustrations, citations to primary sources
The Frozen-Water Trade/Gavin Weightman
...details about Frederic Tudor's ice business, early 19th century
Harvest of the Cold Months/Elizabeth David
...a social history of ice and ices
Wine bottles: a short course in evolution, size & pricing
---Oxford Companion to Wine, Jancis Robinson editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2nd edition, 1999 (p. 96-97)
?
English language history source generally agree on the the 19th century. Entries in the Oxford English Dictionary
suggest these names were not codified by one person at a specific time. They evolved. The earliest print reference cited by
The Oxford English Dictionary for Rehoboam
dates to 1841. Note: this OED definition does not specify bottle dimension or volume. Later definitions sometimes reference bottle size.
Our survey of late 19th/early 20th century USA wine ads and menus offers regular references to bottled wine being sold in quarts and pints. Menus include both domestic and
imports but don't dwell on bottle sizes. In fact? The difference between domestic and European wine bottle sizes quietly ferments until the early 1970s.
"New-York has a fair prospect to pay $4 for every quart and $2 for every pint of champagne that it drinks in any of the fashionable
hotels and restaurants after the 1st of next month."
---"A Champagne Combine, Fashionable hotels intend to put up prices," New York Times, October 19, 1889 (p. 1)
Wine list Pabst Restaurant/Pan-American Exposition/Buffalo...wine by the pint, quart or glass.
Outsize bottles, for show purposes more than for practical use.
Jeroboam or Double-Magnum (4 bottles or 3.20 litres or 0.70 gallons),
Rehoboam (6 bottles or 4.80 liters or 1.05 gallons), Methuselah (8 bottles or 6.40 litres or 1.40 gallons), Salmanazar (12 bottles or 9.70 litres or 2.10 gallons),
Balthazar (16 bottles or 12.80 litres or 2.80 gallons), Nebuchadnezzar (20 bottles or 16.00 litres or 3.50 gallons).
In France, the fluid contents of various bottles are fixed by law as follows:
Litre (100 centilitres or .220 gallon),
Champagne (80 centilitres or 0.176 gallon), Burgundy (80 centilitres or 0.176 gallon), Bordeaux (75 centilitres or 0.165 gallon), Anjou (75 centilitres or
0.165 gallon), Alsace (72 centilitres or 0.158 gallon), St. Galmier (90 centilitres or 0.193 gallon), Vichy (80 centilitres or 0.176 gallon), Vittel (75 centilitres or
0.165 gallon)."
---A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy, Andre L. Simon [Harcourt, Brace and Company:New York] 1952 (p. 685)
"Wine bottle sizes.
Fifth (4/5-qt., the most common size), 25.6 fluid ounces, approximate measurement for recipe use 3 1/8 cups
Tenth (4/5-pt., a half bottle), 12.8 fluid ounces, 1 1/2 cups
Quart, 32 fluid ounces, 4 cups
Half-gallon jug or bottle, 64 fluid ounces, 8 cups
Gallon jug, 128 fluid ounces, 16 cups
Wine 'bottle' when mentioned in this book means 25.6 fluid ounces. This size is also referred to as a 'fifth,' meaning 1/5 gallon, or 4/5 quart, or
simply 'large bottle'."
---Adventures in Wine Cookery, by California Winemakers, edited by Bernice T. Glenn, a new collection of recipes published by Wine Advisory Board, San Francisco [CA] 1965 (p. 12)
?
"The size of wine bottles could become the next addition to the growing list of trade disputes between the European Common Market and the United States. France has asked the
commission of the six-nation unit to protest the the United States about a proposal put forward by the California Wine Institute that would forbid the import of wine into
America in bottles not of standard Americans sizes. The French and their Common Market partners say that the move is an attempt by the California wine industry to
hamper their European competitors, who in 1969 sold $64.5-million of wine to the United States, almost all of it in the standard 70-centiliter
European bottle."
---"Wine-Bottle Sizes Uncork a Dispute," New York Times, August 12, 1971 (p. 45)
"You wander into your favorite wine shop to pick up a bottle for dinner. On one shelf rests a nice Cabernet Sauvignon from California for $3.50. Nearby, however, is
a bottle of French wine at the same price. You cogitate for awhile and finally opt for the import. But which bottle really gives you your money's worth? Quality
aside, the answer is the California wine, simply because the bottle undoubtedly is bigger. At first glance, you might think the California winemakers would be proud
to give the consumer more for his money. You're wrong. The difference in sizes has raised the hackles of many vintners hereabouts who are crying unfair competition for
themselves and misleading packaging for the consumer...At issue are U.S. regulations which tightly control the bottle sizes for wine produced in this country but not for
imports...As such, the standard bottle size for U.S. wine is a fifth of a gallon, or 25.6 ounces. But in Europe, which is on the metric system, the standard size is only about
23.66 ounces, often cited on labels as 1 pint, 8 ounces. This means that a 12-bottle cause of domestic wine would equal about 13 bottles of imported. Moreover...
wines from around the world flow into the U.S. is 'a bewildering number of sizes.'...As the Wine Institute sees it the problems is two-fold. First, wine is taxed on a gallon basis. So, a
bottle of imported wine is taxed a smaller dollar amount right here in the U.S. than its domestic counterpart...Obviously, vintners might feel they're being placed at a
disadvantage in their own market. Also, some contend, consumer assume they're getting a full fifth of wine when buying an import rather than a smaller bottle even
though the quantity is listed on the label. Fueling this notion...is the fact many imports have push-up bottoms which take up space and make the bottle seem bigger...For...the
Wine Institute, the solution is simple: Make all wine sold in the U.S. conform to the same regulations, in this case the standards now applied to
U.S. wine...But assuming the problem does exist, is this the correct answer? Some voices within the California wine industry say 'No...there is a good case for the adoption of
the metric system by the United States."
---"A Tempest in a Wine Bottle," James E. Bylin, Wall Street Journal, August 23, 1972 (p. 8)
?
"For years, American winemakers have battled--unsuccessfully--to force European vintners to bottle their wine according the
United States standards of fill: pints, quarts and gallons. Recently, in a dramatic turnaround, the powerful California
Wine Institute proposed that Americans switch to the metric system. At their winter meeting in Palm Springs last month, the
institute's directors voted unanimously to create a special board to study adoption of the metric system. As reported in Wines
& Vines, a trade publication, the directors even came up with a list of possible bottle sizes: quart-liter, half-liter,
three-quarter-liter, liter, two-, three and four-liter. Traditionally, the California Wine Institute has opposed the increasing number of
imports being sold in this country in bottles resembling the standard fifth of a gallon. Several years ago, a representative
of the institute charged that many foreign wines arrived in bottles closely resembling American ones but containing 5 to 10 per cent
less. A 'fifth' of wine or Scotch or anything else is supposed to contain 25.6 ounces of liquid...Frank Schoonmaker, one of the most
famous Americans in the wine world, defended the Europeans...[he] voiced particular concern for older wines, many of which
had been aging for years. To transfer them to new bottles, 'in nine cases out of ten, would destroy their value and render them
unsalable.' He pointed out too, that the typical European bottles 'have been used abroad since long before the first
vineyard was planted in California.' What's more, Mr. Schoonmaker continued, 'The idea that American drinkers of imported wine--
a reasonably literate segment of our population, one might suppose--are confused and cheated by 'nonstandard' bottles...
is laughable.' That may be true. At the same time, the profusion of bottle sizes now coming into this country is almost
bound to be confusing to anyone concerned with just how much wine he is getting for his money. The traditional French wine bottles
contain 75 centiliters. That is true both of the slab-sided round-shouldered bordeaux bottle and the gently-sloped burgundy
bottle, both of which are widely imitated in this country and around the world. The 75-centiliter bottle holds 25.36 ounces, a
mere fraction less than the American 'fifth.' But there has been a trend, particularly in France, to switch to a slightly smaller
bottle, holding 72 centiliters. Only the most practiced eye can spot these smaller bottles on a wine shop shelf and in many cases,
the labels on the 75-centiliter bottles and the labels on the 72-centiliter bottles are identical; they both say either 1 pint, 8
ounces or 3/4 ths of a quart. To complicate things, the Alsatians prefer a bottle that holds 24.5 ounces; there are German
wines that hold 23.5 ounces, and other European wines ranging anywhere form 22 ounces up. There is also a 'pot' bottle that is
actually about 50 centiliters--less than a 'fifth' but slightly more than a pint. One importer here predicted that the
75-centiliter bottle would eventually become a collector's item."
---"Wine Talk: Quiet Controversy Rages Over a Proposal to Change Bottle Sizes," Frank J. Prial, New York Times, January 27, 1973
(p. 18)
"The wine industry will lead the United States into the metric system. And while it's about it, bury an old bone of contention between U.S. and foreign producers. The
Treasury announced Tuesday in Washington that domestic and imported wines must be bottled in seven standard metric sizes beginning in 1979. This will be the
earliest conversion date for any U.S. industry. The changeover will reduce the number of domestic wine bottle sizes to seven from 16 and the number of imported sizes to
seven from 27...Robert M. Ivie, chairman of the board of the Wine Institute in San Francisco and a member of the metric conversion committee, said, 'California
and imported wine will be sold in the same sized bottles, making price comparisons simpler.'...Ivie said the Treasury ruling is the result of five years of planning and
negotiation between the European Economic Community member nations and the U.S. wine industry. Part of the problem was getting a standard size measure within
Europe itself...Roy Camozzi, an attorney for the Wine Institute, pointed out that it will be many years before the last of the 'old' size bottles is seen in the market place because many
wines are aged in the bottle for long periods before sale. The changes from the present sizes used by U.S. wine producers are actually slight. The U.S. fifth contains
25.6 ounces, which will become 3/4 liter, or 25.4 ounces, in the metric size. The changes for foreign producers will be somewhat greater since thy previously have been
exporting bottles of 21, 22 or 24 ounces. The U.S. gallon and half-gallon sizes will be eliminated. California vintners Tuesday were generally pleased by the ruling, seeing
little extra cost except that for the original new glass moulds. And they expect this to be made up by the slight reduction in taxes even though few believe the lower taxes will
last. The changes form the present sizes used by U.S. producers:
Present sizes, Ounces & Metric sizes, Ounces
jeroboam 102.4 3 litres 101.4
magnum 51.2 1 1/2 litres 50.7
quart 32 1 litre 33.6
fifth 25.6 3/4 litre 25.4
tenth 12.8 3/8 litre 12.7
split 4.6 3.16 litre 6.3"
---"New Bottle Sizes: U.S. to Get Taste of Metric System from a Wine Jug," Carl Cannon, Los Angeles Times, December 11, 1974 (p. F13)
"Bringing the United States into conformity with the rest of the world, most of which operates on the metric system rather than the Imperial (British) or U.S. Customary
systems, has been an uphill fight...Consumers are understandably reluctant to switch from a system of weights and measures they understand to one that reads like a
foreign language to them...John Bing of San Diego...writes 'While shopping the other day, I came across something that illustrates why many consumers have
misgivings about the coming age of the metric system in the United States. The California wine industry is converting to metric measures and the 'new size' bottles are
beginning to appear on some dealers's shelves...half-gallon bottles of popular jug wines that sold statewide for $2.29 are being replaced by 1.5-liter bottles--
containing roughly 13 ounces less-that also sell for $2.29. Or, to put it another way, this is a markup of about 20% over the fair-graded half-gallon
price."
---"Consumer Advocate: Old Wine Prices on New Bottles," Ellen Stern Harris, Los Angeles Times, April 10, 1977 (p. E4)
[NOTE: The relationship between shrinking product sizes and rising consumer prices is a recurring theme in many edible industries from ancient times forward.]
About these notes: Food history can be a complicated topic. These notes are not meant
to be a
comprehensive treatment of the subject, but a summary of salient points supported with culinary
evidence. If you
need more information we suggest you start by asking your librarian to help you find the books
and articles cited in these notes. Article databases are good for locating current recipes, consumer
trends, and new products.
Have questions? Ask!
Research conducted by Lynne
Olver, editor The Food
Timeline. About this site.