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About culture and cuisine
Researching the culinary history of a particular country involves more than identifying traditional foods in current cookbooks. What people eat in all places and through all ages depends upon six primary factors:

General surveys:

Country/region specific culinary history:
  • China
  • Denmark: Prehistoric vegetables & modern traditions
  • Finland: traditional gastronomy
  • France
  • Germany
  • Italy
  • Ireland
  • Japan
  • Mexico and Highland Central America, Cambridge World History of Food, Kiple & Ornelas
  • Spain
  • Turkey
  • United Kingdom

    Country sites
    Many countries offer information about native food and cuisine (some include recipes) on their
    official government Web sites. Check the Ministry of Culture and/or Tourist Bureau. If that doesn't work run a keyword search on the terms "cuisine" or "recipe." (Hint...if you keyword "food" you will get lots of stuff on food exports, companies, subsidies and other social programs).

    You can check sites that originate in a specific country for additional information. How? It's easy. Go to Google, select "advanced search" and look for the "domain" box. Type in the country's "endcode" (full list here) and see what you get. This turned out to be the best way to research the history of Irish Soda Bread (endcode .ie) and traditional Bulgarian foods (endcode .bg).

    RECOMMENDED READING
    These sources are excellent for basic background information on specific country cuisines. Ask your librarian to help you find:

    Country-specific food history books
    In all U.S. library catalogs, use the subject heading: cookery, country or country adjective-history (as in cookery, italy-history or cookery, scottish-history). Scan the list...some cities and regions have their own food histories. Start with your local library's catalog. If you don't find what you need, use the
    Library of Congress catalog. Your librarian can borrow books for you from other libraries...though it may take some time (ie, if your report is due tomorrow this isn't an option). Many country-specific cookbooks contain historic notes along with popular recipes. They are worth checking out.

    If you are conducting extensive research and need to identify books and journals originating from a specific country, start by checking that country's National Library catalog. Major universities, culinary schools, professional culinary organizations and trade associations are also excellent starting points.

    Foreign influence on American cooking
    The study of German American (Italian American, Greek American, etc.) cooking starts with the study of traditional homeland cuisine and immigration patterns. Wherever immigrants settled, so did their foods and recipes. Over time, some of these recipes morphed into uniquely American foods. Think chicken fried steak and hot dogs.

    The impact of ethnic foods on American cuisine is a study of:

    SOURCES FOR LEARNING ABOUT IMMIGRATION & AMERICA
    ---Port of entry were the first areas of culinary influence (New York, Boston). Study settlement patterns (Germans in Milwaukee, Italians in Pittsburgh PA, Greeks in North Carolina )...to examine regional influence & local contributions.

    ABOUT FOREIGN INFLUENCE ON AMERICAN CUISINE

    HELP! I need a recipe now!!!

    RecipeSource, select region, then country
    The Cookie Tin, nice collection of cookies by country; includes holiday cookies!


    France

    Every country presents a unique buffet based on its geography, history, and people. What people eat in all times and places is a function of where they live (country? city?), who they are (religion/ethnic background) and how much money they have (wealthy usually eat better than the poor).

    POPULAR TRADITIONAL CUISINE/OVERVIEW

    FRENCH CULINARY HISTORY (SURVEYS THROUGH TIME)
    PERIOD-SPECIFIC SOURCES
    PRIMARY SOURCES
    Several major French cookery texts have been scanned, republished and translated into English. Selected popular titles:
    OUR FAQS ON SELECTED FRENCH FOODS

    TWO FOODS ASSOCIATED WITH FRANCE THAT ORIGINATED ELSEWHERE


    United Kingdom

    Every country presents a unique buffet based on its geography, history, and people. What people eat in all times and places is a function of where they live (country? city?), who they are (religion/ethnic background) and how much money they have (wealthy usually eat better than the poor).

    A SURVEY OF BRITISH FOODS THROUGH TIME

    RECOMMENDED READING

    Historic overviews

    SELECTED TRADITIONAL DISHES


    Italy

    The history of Italian food is a fascinating and complicated subject. Not quite sure how much information you need, so we are sending you a variety of sources to begin your project:

    Traditional favorites/basic overview:

    RECOMMENDED READING

    General overview

    1. Delizia! The Epic History of the Italians adn their Food/John Dickie
    2. Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink/John Mariani
    3. Food Culture in Italy/Fabio Parasecoli
    4. Foods of Italy/Waverly Root
    5. Foods of the World: Italy/Time-Life Books
    6. Italian Food/Elizabeth David, 2nd ed.
    7. Oxford Companion to Food/Alan Davidson "Italy." (also has separate entries for specific foods)
    8. Oxford Companion to Italian Food/Gillian Riley
    9. World Atlas of Food/Jane Grigson, editor
    10. You Eat What You Are/Thelma Barer-Stein

    Historic surveys

    1. Cambridge World History of Food, Kiple & Ornelas, Volume Two
      ---Mediterranean, Southern & Northern Europe (extensive bibliographies for further study)
    2. Treasures of the Italian Table, Burton Anderson
    3. Pomp and Sustenance: Twenty-five Centuries of Sicilian Food, Mary Taylor Simeti
    4. Food: A Culinary History, Jean-Louis Flandrin & Massimo Montanari (several chapters)
    5. Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History, Alberto Capatti & Massimo Montanari
      ---there are dozens of books that are period/region specific. If you need to focus on a particular time and/or place, your school's librarian can help you find the sources you need.
    6. A Mediterranean Feast, Clifford A. Wright (includes recipes)

    Ancient Rome

    1. Around the Roman Table: Food and Feasting in Ancient Rome/Patrick Faas (includes modernized recipes)
    2. Cooking Apicius: Roman Recipes for Today/Sally Grainger (includes modernzed recipes)
    3. Cooking in Ancient Civilizations/Cathy K. Kaufman (includes modernized recipes)
    4. De Agricultura (On Farming)/Cato (Andrew Dalby's translation:Propect Books)
    5. Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome/Apicius (Joseph Dommers Vehling translation)
    6. Empire of Pleasures: Luxury and Indulgence in the Roman World/Andrew Dalby
    7. Food in the Ancient World, Joan P. Alcock
    8. Food in the Ancient World from A to Z/Andrew Dalby
    9. Roman Cookery, Mark Grant (includes modernized recipes)
    10. The Classical Cookbook, Andrew Dalby and Sally Grainger (includes modernized recipes)
    11. A Taste of Ancient Rome, Ilaria Gozzini Giacosa (includes modernized recipes)

    Medieval/Renaissance period

    1. The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy/Odile Redon et al
    2. The Fine Art of Italian Cooking/Giuliano Bugialli (16th century dinner menus p. 7-15)
    3. Food in Early Modern Europe/Ken Albala (section on Italy)
    4. On the Right Pleasure and Good Health/Platina (15th century cookbook, Mary Ellen Milham translation)
    5. The Neapolitan Recipe Collection (15th century cookbook, Terence Scully translation)
    6. The Art of Cooking/Martino (16th century cookbook, Jeremy Parzen translation)

    19th century

    1. Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well/Pellegrino Artusi [1891]

    Italian-American cuisine

    1. Hungering for America: Italian, Irish, & Jewish Foodways in the Age of Migration, Hasia R. Diner
    2. Italian Cook Book/Maria Gentile [1919
    3. Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith


    Germany

    Every country presents a unique buffet based on its geography, history, and people. What people eat in all times and places is a function of where they live (country? city?), who they are (religion/ethnic background) and how much money they have (wealthy usually eat better than the poor).

    TRADITIONAL GERMAN FOODS AND INGREDIENTS

    HISTORIC INFORMATION

    SELECTED FOOD HISTORIES

    RECOMMENDED READING: [your librarian will be happy to help you find these!]


    Spain

    Spain is a country rich in culinary heritage and famous foods. Each traditional dish tells a unqiue story of history, culture, agricuture, religion, economy, and human taste. As true with most countries, different regions have different specialties.

    ABOUT CONTEMPORARY SPANISH CUISINE
    "The most common misconsception about Spanish food is that it is spicy hot. In fact, Spanish foods are noted for their fresh natural flavors and a minimum of seasonings, and many an authentic Spanish dish perpared elsewhere fails simply because of the lack of quality and freshness in the basic ingredients. The staples of the Spanish kitchen include olive oli, tomatoes, garlic, and onions. Fresh bread is always on the table not only for each meal but also for each course except dessert. Partly because they are the freshest, and partly because of regional price and preferences, the Spanish cook adds local specialties from land or sea to the staples to produce distinctive regional dishes. Cocida and gazpacho are national dishes of Spain, but there as many variations as there are kitchens, and each variation is stoutly defended as being the best. Fruits and subtle light seasonings, combinations of fruits and nuts with meats and fish, and dishes based on rice are all influences from Muslim times. But the oldest additions to Spain's table--wine and olive oil--have never lost their importance."
    ---You Eat What You Are: People, Culture and Food Traditions, Thelma Barer-Stein [Firefly Books:Ontario] 1999 (p. 394)

    You will find a nice overviews (with basic history) here:

    RECOMMENDED READING (your librarian can help you get theses books):

  • You Eat What You Are, Thelma Barer-Stein (Spain)
    ---excellent for basic foods, holiday meals & dining customs
  • World Atlas of Food, Jane Grigson
    ---nice summary of popular/traditional foods and regional favorites
  • The Foods and Wines of Spain, Penelope Casas
    ---detailed history & dozens of recipes
  • The Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson
    ---brief overview of Spain's culinary history

    HOW DID THE MOORS INFLUENCE SPANISH CUISINE?
    The Moorish occupation (711AD--1492AD) left its greatest mark on the region of Spain called Andalucia. Here you will find a cuisine rich with examples of Arab culinary influence. Spices, ingredients, cooking techniques mingled to create a new cuisine. Many of these included sugar and spices.

    "Introductions by the Arabs were...of fundamental importance to Spain's future. They are particularly associated with the use of almonds (the essential ingredient for so many Spanish desserts, baked goods, and confectionery items); with the introduction of citrus fruit (including the lemon and the bitter (Seville) orange...sugar cane and the process of refining sugar from its juice; many vegetables, among which the aubergine (eggplant) was outstanding; and numerous spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, sesame, coriander, aniseed, etc. The Arabs introduced rice to the tidal flatlands of what is now Valencia...The use of saffron in paella is also something whch stems from an Arab introduction."
    ---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 741)

    "The occupation of Iberia by the Moors for seven hundred years had a great influence on the cultural and culinary development of both Spain and Portugal. The Moors were a cultured and sophistcated people who brought a new way of life to the Iberians and to the Roman colonists who inhabited the peninsula at that time. Experts at irrigation, the Moors introduced the cultivation of rice, now a staple food, and gourhg wtih them figs and citrus fruits, peaches and bananas and may of the Eastern spices, including cumin and aniseed, which are used so much in Iberian cooking today. They used almonds a great deal in the cooking of both savoury and sweet dishes. The huge groves of almond trees along the Levante coast and the Algarve were originally planted by the Moors. Today, in all the areas of the peninsula where the Moors once ruled, rich and varied rice dishes, little cakes and confections made from eggs and almonds, cinnamon, butter and honey, as well as crystallized fruit and the special turrones, sweet nougats, are part of the Iberian legacy from the East."
    ---World Atlas of Food, Jane Grigson editor [Mitchell Beaszley:London] 1974 (p. 170)

    Food of Andalucia/Clifford A. Wright

    Two popular examples of Spanish foods influenced by Moorish/Arab cuisine POLVORONES & PAELLA.

    Andalusian cookbook/13th century is good for examples of specific dishes. Reommended reading? Medieval Arab Cookery/Maxime Rodenberry et al

    HISTORIES OF SELECTED TRADITIONAL SPANISH FOODS

    PAELLA
    Paella, endless combinations of various meats, rice and vegetables, is considered by some to be one of Spain's "national" dishes. Indeed, the ingredients and method of paella make it an excellent culinary example of the Spain's history and peoples.

    "Paella, to be precise the Valencian paella, universally known as a traditional dish in Spanish cooking, takes its name from the utensil in which it is cooked and from the Spanish region on the shores of the Mediterranean where the union and heritage of two important cultures, the Roman which gave us the utensil and the Arab which brought us the basic food of humanity for centuries: rice. The etymological roots of the word are of interest. Going back a long way one finds in the Sanskrit language the word pa, which means to drink, from which were derived the Latin terms patera, patina, patella, meaning a chalice or culinary utensil to be used for vaious purposes including frying. In Castilian there existed a primitve form of denomination paela and also tapella, so in an ancient dicitonary we can read that patella is a pan or paella for frying'...In Isalmic Andalusia there were dishes based on rice with definite traditional and symbolic character, casseroles of rice and fish with spices which were eaten at family and religious feasts. Later on, when rice began to take on the chararcteristic of an everyday dish, it was combined with vegetables, pulses, and also some dry cod, in this way forming a part of the menu during Lent. Along the coast fish always predominates with rice. Perhaps as a hangover of these Islamic customs, in the orchards of Valencia, and as a special celebration, rice was cooked in the open air in a paella-pan with vegetables of the season, chicken, rabbit, or duck. With the sociological changes of the 19th century, social life became more active, giving rise to reunions and outings to the countryside. There also came into being the tradition, still very much alive, that men did the cooking of paella. This rice for special days evolved into a Valencian paella. In 1840 in a local newspaper it was in fact given the name of Valencian paella. By natural process the tradition had already come into being. The ingredeints for the traditional dish are as folows: rice, fresh butter beans, tomato, olive oil, paprika, saffron, snails (or, a curious alternative, fresh green rosemary), water, and salt. The ancient tradition was to eat the paella directly from its pan, so the round pan, surrounded by chairs, was converted into a admirable Round Table'. The companions, which their spoons made of box wood with a fine finsih, began to eat, each one drawing out his triangle and limit, then meeting the geometical centre of the paella."
    ---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 566-7)

    "Paella is a word that has come worldwide to mean a Spanish dish with a variety of seafood and usually some chicken. However, the word originally referred only to the pan in which the food was cooked--a paellera...Paellas actually come in endless varieties, depending upon the chef and on regional specialties. Those rice dishes that are made in paella pans, whatever the ingredients, are often referred to as paellas, although just as often the name of a rice dish is a description of its ingredients...Although variations on paella abound, no one will dispute that the home of paella, and of most Spanish rice dishes, is Valencia. Rice growing in Valencia was made possible when, more than a thousand years ago, the Romans introduced irrigation, a system later perfected by the Arab invaders. It is thought that these same Arab conquerors brought rice to Valencia in the eighth century. Many centuries would pass, however, before rice would become the staple of the Valencian diet that it is today and become a basic crop of the Valencian economy...Purists insist that...Valencia is the only place in the world to eat a properly prepared paella...Ask a Spaniard what makes a perfect paella and never expect two opinions to coincide."
    ---The Foods and Wines of Spain, Penelope Casa [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 1982 (p. 173-4)
    [NOTE: Ms. Casas includes several recipes for paella in this book.]

    Related food? Risotto!

    JAMONS (hams) FROM SERRANO & JABUGO

    "Spain is famous for its huge dried mountain hams, jamon serrano, eaten raw, made from the lean meat of the wild Red Iberian pig. These are huge hams cured in the mountain areas near Madrid. The temperature is high, the pieces of meat large, so a quick penetration of salt is essential before drying. The fresh meat is packed into a clean cloth sack filled with crystalline salt and then placed on the basement floor. Friends and relatives visiting the house are expected to pop down to the basement and do a bit of jumping on the sack of meat. By compressing the ham, the drying and salting process is speeded up. Nowadays a case of strong Spanish wine can be used to weight the hams instead. By strange association, in the finale of the film Jamon Jamon, the two protagonists beat each other to a pulp using the hard, giant jamon serrano as weapons!"
    ---Pickled, Potted and Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Processing Changed the World, Sue Shepard [Simon & Schuster:New York] 2000 (p. 72)


    About these notes: Food history can be a complicated topic. These notes are not meant to be a comprehensive treatment of the subject, but a summary of salient points supported with culinary evidence. If you need more information we suggest you start by asking your librarian to help you find the books and articles cited in these notes. Article databases are good for locating current recipes, consumer trends, and new products.
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    About culinary research & about copyright.
    Research conducted by Lynne Olver, editor The Food Timeline. About this site.


    http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodfaq6.html
    © Lynne Olver 2000
    21 August 2008