What did Abraham Lincoln like to eat?
According to the food historians:
"Just as so much about [Abraham Lincoln's] life has been shrouded in latter-day myth and legend,
making it difficult to assess the truth about the man, so, too, have his food habits and tastes been
the subject of controversy. If the only records extant were the menus of hist state balls and banquets,
one would, justifiably, conclude that Abraham Lincoln must have been a gourmet to end gourmets,
a connoisseur of exquisite sensitivity, a bon vivant supreme. Nothing could be further from the truth.
On the other hand, certain observes of the time (and later observers of those observers)
dogmatically asserted that Lincoln was "almost entirely indifferent to food except that he liked
apples and hot coffee." Helen Dupre Bullock, Historian of the National Trust for Historic
Preservation, has written: "Authorities agree that Lincoln was indifferent to food, not particularly
knowing or caring what was placed before him, whether it was cold or hot, and even whether he ate
it or not. If not reminded of meal times he forgot them." Still another writer asserted that Lincolon
"was one of the most abstemious of men; the pleasures of the table had few charms for him. His
breakfast was an egg and a cup of coffee; at luncheon he rarely took more than a biscuit and a glass
of milk, a plate of fruit in its season; at dinner he ate sparingly of two courses." Contradictory
evidence comes from Colonel William H. Crook, the President's bodyguard. He wrote: "Mr. Lincoln
was a hearty eater. He never lost his taste of the things a growing farmer's boy would like. He was
particularly fond of bacon. Plentiful and wholesome food was one of the means by which he kept
up his strength which was taxed almost beyond endurance in those days [1862]."
It seems to us that the food truth about Lincoln must lie somewhere between these extreme points
of view. In the pattern of so many of our strongest Presidents (always, of course, excepting
Jefferson), Linclon relied on food to feed the furnace. He ate well when served a tasty meal, but was
usually so preoccupied with problems of politics and power that he geve little thought to food unless
faced with it. Then he could enjoy a delicious meal as well as the next one. One aspect of Abraham
Linclon's characteristically gentle nature was apparent in his approach to food. His stepmother, Mrs.
Thomas Lincoln, commented that "Abe was a moderate eater--he sat down and ate what was set
before him, making to complaint. He seemed careless about this."...
...Temprementally...Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln were totally unlike...This was striking apparent when it
came to food and food history. Although both came originally from Kentucky, they reflected two
completely different Kentucky traditions. Mary had been raised in the lush bluegrass region of the
state, where gracious, comfortable living and rich, elaborate cooking were legendary. Abe gew up
on the frontier, where he ate very plain food, partly for economic reasons, partly because of the
frontier tradition. Corn dodgers, cakes made of coarse cornmeal, were a staple. Wild game provided
the protein a growing boy needed. During the days of young manhood, where he boarded at the
Rutledge Tavern in New Salem, his diet consisted largely of cornbread, mush, bacon, eggs, and milk.
Several friends of that period recalled later that if Abe was partial to any one food it was honey, a
great delicacy for him at the time."
---The Presidents' Cookbook, Poppy Cannon and Patricia Brooks [Funk & Wagnall's:New York]
1968 (p. 236-7)
"Family meals at the Lincolns' were routine. Early in the morning the President liked a "good hot cup of coffee." But often he would
forget about breakfast until 9 or 10A.M. John Hay, one of Lincoln's privage secretaries, occasionally ate with teh President. He
noted that the frugal repast might consist of "an egg, a piece of toast, coffee, etc." On occasion breakfast was a single egg.
For lunch, Hay reported, Lincoln "took a little lunch--a baiscuit, a glass of milk in winter, some fruit or grapes in summer...He ate
less than anyone I know." Lunch was usually eaten irregularly..."
---ibid (p. 239)
[NOTE: This book contains far more information than can be paraphrased here. If you have time?
Ask your librarian to help you find a copy. This book also contains several modernized recipes for
Lincoln's favorite foods, including Nob Creek Kentucky Corn Cakes, Rail Splitters (corn muffins),
Nancy Hanks' Steamed Potatoes, Rutledge Tavern Squash Pie, New Salem Fruit Pies, Gooseberry
Cobbler etc. If you need to make something for class tomorrow let us know. We can send you a
recipe.]
What kind of cook was Mary Todd Lincoln?
Mary Todd Lincoln was born to a wealthy family in Lexington Kentucky. As such, she was well schooled in the fine aspects of social etiquette rather than the
practical arts of domestic life. Her biographers note Mary's early frugality and preference for simplicity. Her entertainments were well attended and, as one might
expect, grew lavish in the White House period. She was especially fond of strawberries, and enjoyed giving strawberry sociables, where these fine fruits were
combined with cake and ice cream.
"By the 1840s improved methods of salting and icing allowed Mary Lincoln to keep food longer than her mother could. Imported oysters, a delicacy on local
menus, could be preserved for weeks by bountiful washing in salted water and some help from the weather. A few heretics (Mary Lincoln was not usually one of
them) no longer baked bread, depending, instead, on a wagon that delivered bread, crackers, and cakes three times a week. The Springfiled stores were beginning
to sell prepared butter, and in season local farmers brought vegetables and fruits down Jackson Street for the unfixed prices that proper ladies were not supposed
to contest. Penny-pinching Mary Lincoln was among those who violated the prescription that ladies don't beat down prices, and she had several public battles with
the fruit peddler over the prices of his less than perfect strawberries...Lincoln was never a fussy eater, and was satisfied most mornings with an apple for his
breakfast. Still, he would be home for dinner in the middle of the day, and only delinquent housekeepers kept men waiting. But in Mary Lincoln's home it was the
husband whose casual sense of time and lack of appetite made regular hours an impossibility...Sometimes Abraham helped out by shopping...Even with improved
technology and help with marketing, cooking took up the largest part of Mary Lincoln's day. Some Springfield women relished their culinary labors and earned
awards at the country fair for their pickles, preserves, cakes and pies...Mary never entered those competitions, or at least she never won a prize. The one
household product for which she was remembered--what the family circulated as Mary's recipe for white cake--was a simplified gloss on the more complicated
version of a standard cake...Having grown up without practical experience in cooking, Mary relied on Kentucky staples. Years later, amid the haute cuisine of
France, she fondly remembered the "waffles, batter cakes, and egg cornbread--not to mention "buckwheat cakes" of Lexington. The Lincoln menu was also full
of what Mrs. Trollope disparaged as America's "sempiternal ham," and Mary Lincoln's frugality encoruaged the appearance of cheap local game, such as
woodchucks, pheasants, and prairie chickens. In any case, she learned to do what the slaves had done in Lexington: roast coffee, make calf's-foot jelly,
preserve fruit, and prepare cheese. In the summer the kitchen ran her, and it was both the repetitiveness and the lack of control that led disaffected matrons to
compare themselves to slaves...By 1851, after nearly ten years of housekeeping, Mary Lincoln had progressed to an advanced version of Miss Leslie's Cookery,
purchasing this, along with Miss Leslie's House Book or Manual of Domestic Economy for Town and Country...In the more difficutlt version there were recipes for
everything from family soup to to invalid cookery of beef tea and blackberry preserve...Because she had not learned the vices of sugar and, like everyone in
Springfield, innocently belived it the "most nourishing substance in nature," she spent hours making puddings, cakes, candies, and cookies. By modern standards,
the Lincoln household consumed a vast amount of sugar...Some of these sweets were eaten by others, for if Mary Lincoln was a novice cook, she was a practiced
hostess with an easy charm that obscured any shortcomings in her menus. Her contemprary Julia Jayne Trumbull acknowledged her as the "prettiest talker in
Springfield,"..."Mary Lincoln often entertained small numbers of friends at dinner and somewhat larger numbers at evening parties. Her table was famed for the
excellence of its rare Kentucky dishes and in season was loaded with venison, wild turkeys, prairie chickens and quail and other game" ...In her kitchen at Eighth
and Jackson Mary Lincoln relied on simple fare, offering her guests not four courses but tea and cakes and strawberries in season. "This last week, we gave a
strawberry company of about seventy," she wrote in 1859. "If your health will admit of venturing out, in such damp weather," went one Mary Lincoln invitation,
"we would be much pleased to have you, Mr. B., and the young ladies came round, this eve about seven and pass a social evening." By seven Mason and Mary
Brayman would have eaten their middle-of-the-day dinner as well as their supper, leaving the hostess responsible only for dessert. Unlike some of her friends and
family, Mary Lincoln did not use her cookind for charitable purposes...though she often invited friends from the...church for tea and cakes...By the mid-1850s
Lincoln's prominence required substantial entertainments, and with money available from his successful law practice, Mary Lincoln hosted large receptions--what in
the East passed a levees. On the prairies, as elsewhere, French was the language of sociability, used by Mary and her friends to distinguish their grandest affairs
from the even more elegant soirees or "grand fetes,"..Instead, she simply put food on the table, and the crowds poured into the house to eat it..."
---Mary Todd Lincoln: A Biography, Jean H. Baker [W.W. Norton:New York] 1987 (p. 109-113)
Compare this with the dinner served at Lincoln's second inauguration.
Authentic period recipes
The Kentucky Housewife/Lettice Bryan [1839] has been reprinted recently by Image Graphics,
Paducah, Kentucky. Your librarian can help you obtain a copy. Please note: most of these recipes
are not simple *frontier* food. They are most likely the foods enjoyed by Mrs. Lincoln's family.
"Gooseberry cobbler.
Elderberries, gooseberries--all the old-time berries and fruits foudn favor with President Lincoln.
Such berries often grew wild in his home state of Illinois. The original recipe for this old-fasioned
cobbler called for a dripping pan or 9-by-18-inch pudding dish, rather large for today's family. The
recipe served 12, but can easily be adapated to 6 servings.
Flour
Lard or salad oil
Salt
Baking powder
Milk or water
Sugar
Gooseberries.
Combine 4 cups flour with 4 tablespoons melted lard or salad oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 4 teaspoons
baking powder. Mix as you would a biscuit dough, stirring in little by little about 1 cup milk or
water. (Add only enough liquid to make a dough taht can be rolled quite thin.) Roll the dough and
line a pudding dish with it (or a 9-by-18-inch pan). Mix 2 tablespoons sugar with 3 tablespoons flour
and sprinkle it over the crust. Then spread 6 cups washed gooseberries in the dish. Sprinkle with 3/4
cup sugar (more if berries are too sour). We the edges of the crust with a little flour and water mixed.
Place an upper crust on top, pressing the edges together. Make 2 openings by means of 2 inch-long
incisions at right angles. Bake in a hot (425 degrees F.) Oven about 30 minutes. To serve: cut into
squares and serve wither warm or cold with rich milk or cream or whipped cream, vanilla sauce,
foamy sauce, or vanilla ice cream."
---The Presidents' Cookbook, Poppy Cannon and Patricia Brooks [Funk & Wagnall's:New York]
1968(p. 250)
[NOTE: Crisco works fine if you can't get lard or salad oil.]
Have questions? Ask!