Food Timeline>American public school lunches

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ABOUT AMERICAN PUBLIC SCHOOL LUNCH
What people eat in all places and times depends upon who they are (religion, ethnic background), where they live (North side of Boston? Rural Nebraska?) and how much money they have ( wealthy usually eat better than the poor).

In pre-industrial times (the first half of the 19th century), the midday meal was often considered the main meal of the day. It was called dinner. As factories grew, so did the need for people to eat a lighter meal in order to get back to work. Public schools followed this same pattern. American cookbooks reflected this trend by including traveling lunch suggestion (picnic, school, work) in the second half of the 19th century. 19th century American schoolchildren had three basic choices when it came to lunch:

A. Boarding schools served formal meals.
B. Urban schools often sent children home for lunch.
C. Rural schools let children go home (if they lived close enough) or eat at the school
(some children lived several miles away and it was not possible for them to make the trip in time.)
Enter the Industial Revolution. Late 19th/early 20th century American school children were the focus of social scientists, nutrition experts, government researchers, welfare groups, parent/teacher organizations, and ladies' leagues. Diet inadequacies were identified and addressed. Parents were informed about the connection between diet and academic achievement. Hot school lunches were sometimes organized and served by these groups. Legislation ensued. Today's school cafeteria choices reflect federal nutritional recommendations, regional culinary preferences, and local district practices. The controversy over what makes a "good school lunch" remains a hot debate.

LAWS, REGULATIONS & GOVERNMENT REPORTS

AMERICAN SCHOOL CAFETERIA LUNCHES
[1914-1917]
During the Great War school lunches were served to children attending public schools in many of America's larger cities. Meals were carefully prescribed by nutrition scientists. Menus were developed to ensure each student consumed the number of calories (energy) calculated to maximize his or her learning potential. The following notes pertain to Philadelphia and New York City:

"In many of our large cities and industrial centers the elementary school luncheon has long since passed the experimental stage and is regarded as a valuable part of the school training as well as a safeguard for the health of the child. Very often the pioneer work has been done by women's clubs or philanthropic organizations which have assumed the task of demonstrating to school authorities the practicability and value of such feeding. The expensive machinery of education is wasted when it operates on a mind listless from hunger or befogged by indigestible food. Whether the cause be poverty, ignorance, or carelessness, the child is the sufferer, and the painstaking work of the school lunch supervisors to secure wholesome and adequate noon meals for the school children at a minimum cost not only brings immediate benefit to the children, but exerts a widespread influence upon homes and parents, as the children carry to them reports of tehse concrete lessons in the science of proper selection, preparation, and hygiene of food. The school luncheon must be simple, easily served and economical. It may consist of a hot dish, with some form of bread, and a choice of about two sweet dishes; milk or cocoa should always be obtainable. A week's menu as actually served by the School Lunch Committee of the Home and School League in Philadelphia is given below:

Weekly menu in school with penny lunches and five-cent noon dinner
Monday: (1) Baked beans and roll, 5 cents (2) Cocoa or milk, 2 cents; crackers or ice cream, 1 cent
Tuesday: (1) Vegetable soup and roll, 5 cents (2) Same choice as Monday
Wednesday: (1) Creamed beef on toast and roll, 5 cents (2) See Monday. Dates 1 cent
Thursday: (1) Macaroni with tomato sauce and roll, 5 cents (2) See Monday. Jam sandwich, 1 cent
Friday: (1) Creamed salmon and roll, 5 cents (1) See Monday
The following passage describes the mechanism of the service in the New York City Schools:

At 11:45 in each of the seventeen schools squads of picked pupils set up the portable tables in preparation for serving the lunch. The children come from their classrooms, form lines, usually in the interior play yards, and as they pass a given point take up a try, spoon, and whatever other utensils are necessary. The line goes by the large containers of soup, which is dispensed in half-pint portionstot the children. The rule has been to have each child purchase first a half-pint bowl of soup, after which he may purchase any of the other items prepared that day. After buying the soup the child passes along the table on which the other foods are displayed, choosing those which appeal to him. Behind these tables the picked pupils, in white gloves and aprons, and, in the case of the girls, caps, hand to the children the desired articles. At the end of the line the associate manager stands to receive as many pennies as there are items of food on each child's tray. The child carries his lunch to one of the tables which have been set for that prupose, where the food is eaten. After finishing the meal, the child takes the tray and oiled dishes to a designated place, where any remaining food is scraped into a pail and the bowls, trays, and utensils are neatly placed in piles ready to be washed. This affords an opportunity for a lesson in practical domestic science...If the noon meal is served at home, it may be somewhat more elaborate, provided the child has time to eat it in a leisurely fashion. When he has to hurry back to school this fact must be taken into account, and no extra tax put on his digestive powers."
---Feeding the Family, Mary Swartz Rose PhD, assistant professor, Dept. of Nutrition, Teachers College, Columbia University [MacMillan:New York] 1917 (p. 154-7)

"Many high school children do not go home for the noon meal. In fact, the custom of providing meals at school began in America with the high school, and most city schools have lunch rooms. Sometimes these are let by contract and there is no skilled supervision of the food supply. But with the spread of the carefully supervised elementary school luncheon attention has been directed to the real needs of the high school youth and the opportunities for education in good eating habits. An interesting attempt to help the pupil to choose wisely is shown in the Menu Bulletin of the Julia Richman High School in New York City:

Julia Richman High School
Lunch Service
Menu Bulletin No. 37

N.B. You require 800 balanced Calories for Lunch. Purchase the items whcih give you this quantity.

Soup:
Split pea, bread and butter...Calories: 310; Price, 5 cents
Hot dish:
Veal stew with vegetables, bread and butter...Calories: 350; Price, 10 cents
Vegetables:
Lima beans...Calories: 125; Price, 3 cents
Sandwiches:
Date nut on graham bread...Calories: 245; Price, 4 cents
Chopped egg...Calories: 200; Price, 4 cents
Desserts:
Raisin layer cake...Calories: 300; Price, 5 cents
Horton's ice cream...Calories: 200; Price, 5 cents
Bread pudding, chocolate sauce...Calories: 275; Price, 4 cents
Baked apple and cream...Calories: 120; Price, 3 cents
Apple...Calories: 50; Price, 1 cent
Crackers:
Cecilias...Calories: 100; Price, 3 for 1 cent
Fireside peanut jumbles...Calories: 110; Price, 2 for 1 cent
Candy
Sweet milk chocolate, large bars...Calories: 500; Price, 5 cents
Almond bars...Calories: 600; Price, 5 cents
Assorted penny candy...Calories: 100; Price, 1 cent
Beverages
Milk...Calories: 140; Price. 3 cents
Cocoa...Calories: 110; Price, 3 centsBreads
White or graham, with butter...Calories: 185; Price, 2 cents

The result of the educational work done here is clearly demonstrated in the change of demand for food. The first few days of the service, the candy and pastry tables were the chief points of purchase, more than half of the receipts coming from that source. About 30 bowls of soup were sold and 15 to 20 other hot dishes. Within four weeks form the commencement of the service were selling an average of 80 to 90 bowls of soup and 40 to 60 other hot dishes.

The high school luncheon will usually offer a greater variety of foods than the elementary school meal, but these should always be presented with the fact in mind that the young people are going back to brain work, and heavy dishes are out of place. The daily menu list may well include such dishes as the following:

1. Soup, as tomato, green pea, split pea, white and black bean.
2. Two or three hot dishes, as spaghetti with tomato sauce, mashed potatoes with green peas, baked beans, corn pudding, a stew with vegetables or a hot roast beef sandwich.
3. Salads, as potato, egg, fruit, or green vegetable.
4. Sandwiches, one or two varieties each day.
5. Fruit, as apples, bananas, stewed fruits of various kinds.
6. Milk and cocoa.
7. Plain cake or sweet wafers offered only in combination with milk or other plain food.
8. Ice cream, charlotte russe, simple baked pudding, sweet chocolate."
---Feeding the Family, Mary Swartz Rose PhD, assistant professor, Dept. of Nutrition, Teachers College, Columbia University [MacMillan:New York] 1917 (p. 167-168)

BRITISH SCHOOL CAFETERIA LUNCH MENUS: 1912-3

"Many twentieth century British children had their first experience of public eating through the medium of school meals provided by local authorities...They were considered necessary for the welfare of the schoolchildren, allowing them to concentrate on lessons rather than being hungry...It was during the Second World War that nutritionists reached a consensus on the proportion of nutrients to be provided by school meals. Before this time, the service was rather patchy. After the war it was very difficult for children to opt out unless they lived close enough to school to go home for dinner...The statutory provision of school meals originated in the 1906 (Provision of Meals) Education Act. This stated that local authorities had a duty to provide free meals to those children whose education mught otherwise suffer through hunger, and permitted local authorities to add up to a halfpenny in the pound to rates to pay for the meals. This Act was a direct result of the Boer War...For some years Bradford City Council had been concerned about poor nutrition amongst children and was investigating the problem when the 1906 Act was passed. Since 1890 some provision of free school meals had been made for needy children in Bradford by a charity called the Cinderella Club. In 1903-4 the voluntary agencies providing school meals in Bradford had been unable to cope with the increased demand...In 1907 the Bradford Feeding Experiment...was undertaken by Dr. Ralph Crowly and Miss Cuff...Crowly defined his objectives to ascertain what effect the giving of food had upon the children...it was thought that the experiment might prove useful as a practical guide to the character and meals to be provided, and the best methods to adopt in the serving of them. Breakfast and dinner were given to about 40 children who were considered to be most in need of them. The experiment was seen as important for socialisation, teaching good table manners and hygiene. Tables were covered with cloths and decorated with flowers. It was also viewed as a way of educating the parents...As a result of this experiment, a free school meals service was brought into operation in the city in 1907-8. A central kitchen was used, the food being despatched by motor van and tramcar service to the dining rooms'...By 1913 when Miss Cuff delivered a report to the NFRA the service was in full swing. Breakfasts, of bread and jam and milk, currant loaf and cocoa, or porridge, treacle, bread and margarine and milk were provded all year. Menus were arranged in groups according to the seasons:

SUMMER 1912:
Mon;: potato and onion soup, sago pudding;
Tues: shepherd's pie, green peas, stewed fruit;
Wed: Yorkshire pudding, gravy, greens, rice and sultanas;
Thurs: Scotch barley broth, currant pasty;
Fri: fish and potato pie, peas, parsley sauce, blancmange and jam.
AUTUMN 1912 AND SPRING 1913:
Mon: potato and onion soup, wholemeal cake;
Tues: hashed beef and savoury blass, rice pudding;
Wed: Yorkshire cheese pudding, peas, gravy, stewed fruit;
Thurs: shepherd's pie, green peas, sago pudding;
Fri: fish and potato pie, peas, parsley sauce, rice and sultanas.
WINTER 1912-3
Mon: brown vegetable soup, jam roly-poly pudding, sauce;
Tues: savoury batter, beans, gravy, semolina pudding;
Wed: potato and onion soup, ginger pudding, sweet sauce;
Thurs: stewed beef and gravy, mashed potatoes, baked jam roll;
Fri: fish and potato pie, parsley sauce, peas, sago pudding.
(Peas were dried, beans were brown or white haricots).

School meals met with a mixed reception...The fear that meals would be seen as handouts proved unfounded. Free school meals were seen as having the stigma of poverty attached, and parents paid whenever they could."
---"Learning How to Eat in Public: School Dinners," Laura Mason, Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery: Public Eating [Prospect Books:Devon] 1991 (p. 206-9)

Additional details & the original act.

A SURVEY OF HOME-MADE AMERICAN SCHOOL LUNCHES THROUGH TIME
School lunch box menus and packing tips start claiming pages in American cookbooks at the tail end of the 19th century. This coincided with the new fields of nutrition science and home economics. People began to understand (and act upon) the role nutrition plays in fueling growing minds and bodies. Cook book authors reveal much about themselves when it comes to their notes about school lunch box foods. Domestic scientists are concerned with nutritional balance; popular writers focus more on new ideas and presentation. All authors agree variety is the spice of life and a healthy lunch plays a vital role in academic success. Recipes printed in cookbooks/magazines provide valuable insight to contemporary period lunchbox menus. Of course, they do not tell the whole story.

What do kids really eat for lunch? Whatever suits their fancy. Some kids cling to ritual, others thrive on surprise. Some prefer mom's lunch (foods they know), others delight in cafeteria selections (freedom of choice). Some view lunch as a bartering event (trade-ya!), others are grateful to have anything hot and filling (confirming the importance of tax-supported food programs).

[1830s, Texas]
"We walked morning and evening to school, carrying our dinners in tin pails and milk in a variety of bottles. Some had clear glass, some green glass wine bottles, and some black or junk bottles. A contention having arisen among the boys as to the relative strength of these wares, it was submitted to the test of striking the bottles together, the boys whose bottles were broken admitting defeat which, in some vague way, I thought involved humiliation while the boys whose bottles survived the conflict vaunted their victories. I do not see why it never occurred to us that the finer ware would suffer in the conflict and the coarser prevail, but so it was. Bottles were of vastly more value then than now, and some of the small boys having cried about their loss, brought in the teacher with his switches to umpire the game, and he decided to administer impartial fate. I do not remember the number of strokes, but I remember thinking it unjust that the boys who had lost in the game should suffer as much in the award as those who prided themselves on their stock of infrangible glass. For many years, however, I have coincided with the old teacher's view, and wish that his policy could be extended to parties and nations as well, they being but children of a larger growth."
"Recollections of Early Schools," M.M. Kenney, Southwestern Historical Quarterly

[1860s-1880s]
What did children bring for school lunch in the 19th century? History books tell us their meals were usually composed of leftovers from the previous day. This means Italian, Irish, Swedish, Jewish and German immigrant schoolchildren likely consumed very different foods for lunch. A century later, ample evidence reveals home-packed lunches still reflected family heritage and economic status. The classic "American melting pot" school lunch of sandwich, fruit, dessert & drink was promoted by the same folks who worked hard to establish school lunch programs.

Possible "melting pot-type" school lunches based on period cookbooks are these:

Ham salad (or just plain ham) on whole wheat
Graham crackers
Fruit (apple, grapes, stawberries)

Chicken breast on a soft roll (egg roll or potato roll)
Deviled eggs
Carrot sticks & celery curls
Ginger snaps or ginger bread

Corn bread & jelly
Beef jerky
Dried cranberries or raisins
Popcorn balls

Cornish pasty (small portable pie filled with meat & vegetables)
Fruit (plums, pears, cherries)
Sugar cookies

Deviled ham (Underwood Company began in 1869) & soda crackers/saltines
Canned fruit (peaches, pears)
Muffin (blueberry, apple, cranberry)


SOURCES:
[1877] Buckeye Cookery, Esther Woods Wilcox (bills of fare by season)
[1884] The Boston Cooking School Cook Book, Mrs. D. A. Lincoln (salad sandwiches)

About 19th century American sandwiches. What to drink? Milk, cocoa, and juice were popular kid's beverages. Lemonade and iced tea are also period correct.

[1892]
School lunches, Science in the Kitchen, Ella Eaton Kellogg

[1905] Some of Margaret's school luncheons

  1. "Two Boston brown bread cream cheese, and nut sandwiches, and two white bread and jam; a little round cake; a pear.
  2. Two chopped ham sandwiches, two with whole wheat bread an peanut-butter; a piece of gingerbread; a peach.
  3. Two whole wheat-bread and chopped egg sandwiches with French dressing ; two crackers spread with jam; three thin slices of cold meat, salted; a cup custard; and apple.
  4. Two whole wheat sandwiches spread with chopped celery and French dressing, two of white bread and sardines; three gingersnaps; three figs.
  5. Three sandwiches of white bread filled with cooked oysters, chopped fine, one of whole wheat with orange marmelade; a few pieces of celery, salted, a spice cake; a handful of nuts.
  6. Four sandwiches, two of minced chicken moistened with cream, two of whole wheat and chopped olives; a little jar of apple-sauce; gingerbread.
  7. Two date sandwiches, two of chopped cold meat; sugar cookies; three olives; and orange.
  8. Two fig sandwiches, two whole wheat with chopped celery and French dressing; a devilled egg; a little scalloped cake; an apple.
  9. Three lettuce sandwiches, one with brown sugar and butter; three tiny sweet pickles; ginger cookies; fresh plums."
---A Little Cook-Book for a Little Girl, Caroline French Benton [Dana Estes & Company:Boston] 1905 (p. 168-9)

[1915] Menu making for the luncheon box
"A luncheon box may be made a source of pleasure to the school child or everyday worker. To bring this about, the foods must be varied on successive days. It is not necessary that each luncheon consist of various foods. Indeed, many kinds of food or foods in great quantity are not desirable for a child who sits quietly at study much of the day...It is both possible and necessary, however,--if the luncheon box is not to become monotonous--to have different foods for each day of the week. As in any meal, all of the foodstuffs should be represented in the food of a luncheon box.

"Foods for the luncheon box. --(1) Sandwiches.--Bread is the basis of almost all box lunches. Since sandwiches furnish the most convenient way of carrying foods that are to be eaten with bread, they invariable form a part of every luncheon...Variety may be had by serving bread sometimes in the form of muffins or rolls. The slices of bread may be cut thick or thin to suit the appetite of the eater. It is often desirable to leave the crusts on the bread...If sandwiches are prepared some time before they are served, they can be kept moist by wrapping in a dry towel, covered with a towel wrung out of hot water. The fillings for sandwiches offer many variations. They may be divided into two classes, seasoned and sweet. Seasoned fillings may include: meat, eggs, cheese, vegetables. If meat is used, it may be cut in slices, or chopped and mixed with a sauce...Either Salad Dressing or White Sauce may be combined with meat...Sweet fillings for sandwiches include: preserved or dried fruits, bananas, nuts. Sandwiches made with sweet fillings are most popular among children. Some of them make good substitutes for cake, and are much more easily digested...

"Relishes.--celery, olives, and radishes serve as relishes for the luncheon box. Celery and olives (especially those stufed with pimentos or nuts) are pleasing as a sandwich filling...Desserts.--Cake is a common constitutent of the luncheon box. Not all cakes, however, are suitable for luncheons. For children, only plainer cakes, i.e. those containing little fat, should be used. Plain cake and cookies, sponge cake, lady fingers, and gingerbread (if not too highly spiced) are also desirable for the school luncheon...Most fresh fruits can be easily packed in the luncheon box. As has been mentioned, grapes, the small fruits such as strawberries and raspberries, sliced pineapple, or fruit sauces may be carried in jelly glasses...If a child is permitted to have sweets, a little candy may be placed in the luncheon box; it is better for a child to have candy at the end of a luncheon than after school>"
---A Text-Book of Cooking, Carlotta C. Greer [Allyn and Bacon:Boston] 1915 (p. 328)

[1924] The school lunch box
"The proportion of under-nourishment among both city and country school children has been so appallingly great that in many instances it has been necessary to establish a school luncheon. With the city child, the under-nourishment can often be traced to lack of an adequate breakfast as well as an unbalanced luncheon brought from home, containing an undue amount of starch and sugar, little or no protein, and but few vitamin foods.

"In certain schools the difficulty has been overcome by providing a hot noon luncheon, which is sold to the children a cost. In other cases, where this is not practicable, milk is sold to the children as a small sum per half pint bottle. The results in both instances were immediately beneficial. The children gaining in weight, in improved color, and eventually in keener intelligence. In one city, it has been found that the average child completes the eight customary years of school twenty-five percent, sooner than is usually done.

"It would seem, however, a reflection on the intelligence of American Motherhood when the introduction of municipal and even civic cooking is necessary for the progress-physical and mental-of our children. Certainly, most city mothers can provide three balanced meals a day for their children, no matter if the income is small, for there are always foods which may be chosen that, at the same time, are inexpensive and sufficently nutritious. The country mother, whose child attends a distant school and cannot come home to luncheon or dinner at noon, can give her child a balanced morning and evening meal, and can provide a balanced noon meal which be can easily carried in the school lunch box or basket. The container itself should be attractive and of such nature that it can be easily and thoroughly cleaned and aired. Plenty of waxed paper will be needed in packing the contents; paper napkins should be provided and a hot-cold bottle should be procured, to make possible the carrying of various liquid foods.

"The menus should be varied, possessing the element of surprise. Plenty of whole-grain breads should be used in the making of sandwiches; fresh fruit should be provided and a goodly number of the protectives should be included.

School Lunch-Box Menus
No. 1.
Peanut butter and entire-wheat bread sandwiches raisin gingerbread, an apple
milk (hot-cold bottle)

No. 2.
Creamed chicken, ham, or veal and entire-wheat bread sandwiches
jelly and white bread sandwiches
a hard cooked egg, sponge cake, a pear
lemonade (hot-cold bottle)

"The sandwich is undoubtedly the easiest way to combine a variety of foods for the school luncheon. For this reason, sandwiches of some sort are usually included...Remember that the sandwich acts in the menu as a starch because of the bread; a fat because of the butter; a protective because of the butter; a mineral, when a whole-grain bread is used; the rest of it is made up by the filling, which may be of protein nature, as meat, cheese, nuts, or egg, or a sweet, as jelly, jam, fruit, butter, etc. In selecting sandwiches, choose those that will balance the menu; remember that as much filling, proportionately, should be provided as the child would eat of that particular food were it served to him at home upon a plate. The bread should be cut thin as otherwise he will have too much starch. Sometimes a custard baked in a jelly glass, a cornstarch pudding, bread pudding, fruit Betty, or gelatine--carried in a jelly glass--may be provided, or these foods may be put up in paper jelly cups, which may be discarded after the food is eaten."
---Mrs. Allen on Cooking, Menus, Service, Ida C. Bailey Allen [Doubleday, Doran & Company:Garden City NY] 1924 (p. 44-6)

[1926] Children's school lunches
"Brown bread sandwiches, jelly sandwiches, fruit-nut sandwiches, prune and peanut sandwiches, lettuce sandwiches, celery sandwiches, cream cheese sandwiches, stuffed dates with peanut butter, deviled eggs, date sandwiches, peanut butter sandwiches, tomato sandwiches, egg sandwiches, turkey or chicken sandwiches."
---Every Woman's Cook Book, Mrs. Chas. F. Moritz [Cupples & Leon:New York] 1926 (p. 690)

[1927] School Lunches and Picnic Baskets
"Lunch boxes go picnicking in the summer and return to the school in the autumn. School lunches and picnic meals have much in common, as they must both lend themselves to easy packing and both should hold pleasant surprises for the lunchers. School lunches are closely associated with child health. Uninviting paper-bag lunches, prepared wtihout much thought for the interest of which a variety of food brings to children, should be a thing of the past. An attractive box and paraffin paper for wrapping take the place of paper bags, while a vacuum bottle for carrying milk, hot cocoa or soup is most useful. Fortunately, many schools now served good well-balanced hot lunches and mothers of the community should support all such undertakings through every possible cooperation with the school . These lunches may or may not be supplemented by a box lunch from home. Sandwiches are the great staple for the lunch-box and Graham or whole wheat bread should be used freely. Many delicious filling scan be evolved from such foods as cheese, peanut-butter, jam, raisin, lettuce, dates, crisp celery, figs and chopped nuts, shredded cabbage, sliced tomatoes, hard cooked eggs and cold sliced or minced meat. These can be made into "spreads" with some mild salad dressing or a little cream when suitable to the mixture. Oranges, apples, pears and other fruit and whole tomatoes in paraffin paper carry well. Glass and china individual baking dishes and paper cases make possible the baked custard or pudding, the plain cake or gingerbread and small molds of pressed jellied meat, in a wy that pleases the young luncher. All lunches should of course consider the age of the luncher. Here are some suggestions for the lunch box:

Lunch-box menus for the elementary school
Egg and celery sandwiches, little sponge cakes, dates, milk.
Chicken and tomato sandwiches, gingerbread, milk, apple.
Graham crackers with peanut butter, baked cup custard, apple, milk.
Egg and lettuce sandwiches, caramel cup custard, milk.

Lunch-box menus for the high school
Cold sliced chicken, cleery, graham bread and butter sandwiches, date blanc-mange in cup, plain cookies.
Tomato soup, slice of beef loaf, lettuce sandwiches, caramel cup custard.
Nut and cheese sandwiches, tapioca cream, celery, raisin cake.
Salmon salad, bread and butter, grapes, milk, cookies."


---Good Housekeeping's Book of Good Meals [Good Housekeeping:New York] 1927 (p. 228-9)

[1933] School lunches


---Pictorial Review Standard Cook Book, [Pictorial Review Company:New York] 1933 (p. 409-410)

[1936] Box Lunches that intrigue both eye and appetite
"With only a few days left before your young hopefuls go off to school again, I can see all you mothers, from Maine to California, getting down the lunch boxes you put away with such relief in June. And when I read the letters that come to the Institute asking for help in planning box lunches for grown-ups of the famly who carry lunch to work each day, I realize how many of you never get that summer breathing spell. Yours is a year-round problem, and I am sure you often feel as if you had run out of ideas when it comes to thinking up something new for those lunches. What to put in these boxes, that's always the question! First, last, and always, you wish to make the lunch suitable, and you knwo well that a few snacks gleaned from yesterday's dinner are not a meal for any one, young or old, who puts in a good day's work. Each meal should provide its share of calories, vitamins, and mineral salts. Soemtiems it is a question, too, of coaxing tired appetites, especially for indoor desk workers. Food, as you know, gives them the mental lift they need and builds resistance to colds and other ills...In planning box lunches, I always keep the evening meal in mind. As the children's supper is usually a lighter meal than the family dinner, I plan a farily hearty noon lunch for them, with a nourishing soup, or meat or eggs in the sandwich mixture. Something raw and fresh like a tomato, or shredded cabbage and carrots, rounds out the day's needs...If your family is anything like mine, they will be brutally frank in letting you know what they like and what they don't. Let these criticisms be a warning to you and profit by them. It's so easy to be smug and assume that what we ourselves want the rest of the world ought to like top...I'm not going to try to persuade you that packing lunches is just fun...But I do say that it can be made an interesting job if we approach it in a spirit of adventure...In box lunches particualrly it's the sameness that gets yo down, whether you eat them or pack them. Don't waste time lamenting that Mother Nature doesn't produce a beand-new foodstuff every day. Sit back and consider how shortsighted you've been in the numberless things you've overlooked...Just because there's a cafeteria in the school is no reason for dropping all lunch responsibility. Any mother who hears that Johnny is turning up his nose at the soup or cocoa can be pretty sure that he's leaving most of it in the cup. It may really be poor, or only unattractively served, but why not see about it?...

suggested lunch box menus
Cold lamb and lettuce sandwich, currant jelly sandwich, carrot sticks, celery, orange layer cake, milk

Mixed vegetable salad (in container), pimiento cheese sandwiches, gingerbread, banana, milk

Vegetable chowder, crackers (canned vegetable soup with milk), peanut butter and marmalade sandwiches, packaged cookies, pear

Cream of celery soup, bacon and egg salad sandwiches on whole wheat bread, tomato, oatmeal cookies."
---Good Housekeeping, September 1936 (p. 84-5)

[1940] Menu suggestions

    (Milk appears in some form in each lunch)
  1. Cream of spinach soup (in vacuum container), crackers, raisin and nut bread and butter sandwiches, apple sauce.
  2. Cream of tomato soup (in vacuum container), ground meat sandwiches, sliced fruit, milk chocolate.
  3. Cream cheese sandwiches, celery, tomatoes and rice (in vacuum container), custard with jelly and graham crackers.
  4. Boston brown bread sandwiches with cottage cheese filling, cocoa (in vacuum container), apple sauce, graham or oatmeal crackers."
---American Woman's Cook Book, Ruth Berolzheimer editor, Culinary Arts Institute [Consolidated Book Publisher:Chicago] 1940 (p. 61)

[1940] Suggested School Lunch Box Menus

Egg-olive sandwich, cheddar corn muffin, tomato, baked apple, milk.

Chicken leg, watermelon pickle, whole wheat bread and butter, cheese-onion sandwich, fruit salad, cooky, cocoa.

Hot consomme, cheese crackers, salami sandwich, carrot straws, fruit drops, milk (school)

Meat loaf sandwich, lettuce wedge, peanut butter sandwich, dill pickle, meringue coconut tart, milk.

Potato salad, hard-cooked egg, ham sandwich, jelly sandwich, celery, chocolate cake, lemonade.

Cream of pea soup, crackers, egg-backon sandwich, spiced pears, brownies, milk."
---Young America's Cook Book, Home Institute of the New York Herald Tribune [Charles Scribner's Sons:New Ork] 1940 (p. 222)

[1944] Pointers on packing lunch box meals
"It's day to day sameness in his lunch box that's apt to get a luncher down. So, if you would keep your...school children always eager for the lunches you pack, put these few good pointers into practice...Be sure to choose foods which the luncher can handle easily and and eat quickly--particularly if his rest period is short...Because sandwiches are so often the mainstay in the lunch box, coax tired appetites by varying the bread you use...Be generous with sandwich fillings, then the sandwiches will be far more tempting...Avoid putting lettuce into sandwiches--it may become limp and unappetizing...Keep a supply of canned meats on hand for lunch box use. Any leftover can be worked into the family meals...Such hot hearty dishes as baked beans, chili con carne, beef or lamb stew...may be carried in the vacuum bottle, especially if it is a wide mouthed one. Something hot in the lunch box is always welcome...a few crunchy, raw vegetables...are delicious for the lunch box."

School lunch box menus

"I
Cream of tomato soup, crackers
raw minced carrot and cabbage sandwich (add a little mayonnaise)
deviled eggs, soft molasses cookies, apple

II
Vegetable chowder (vacuum bottle), crackers (canned vegetable soup with milk)
peanut butter and orange marmelade sandwiches
celery, packaged cookies, pear

III
Cream of celery soup (vacuum bottle)
minced bacon and egg sandwiches on whole-wheat bread
tomato, crisp oatmeal wafers

IV
Cold sliced lamb and lettuce sandwich, current jelly sandwich
raw carrot sticks, celery
layer cake with orange frosting, milk (vacuum bottle)

V
Salad of mixed vegetables (in container)
pimiento cheese sandwiches
hot water gingerbread, banana, milk (vacuum bottle)

VI
Peanut butter and minced raw carrot sandwich
whole-wheat bread and apple butter sandwich, celery hearts
baked cup custard, sponge cake, cocoa (vacuum bottle)"


---The Good Housekeeping Cook Book, completely revised edition [Farrar & Rinehart:New York] 1944 (p. 846-7)

[1947] School Lunches
"If you have a lunch room in your school, practice selecting combinations of foods that are appetizing, inexpensive, and nourishing. If you take lunch from home, it should be appetizing and nourishing--not all jam sandwiches and cake. A well balanced school lunch or picnic lunch includes at least one thing chosen from the following:

Bread: brown, date, graham, nut, oatmeal, raisin, rye, white, or whole wheat.
Butter or butter substitute: at least on one slice of each sandwich.
Sandwich fillings: chopped eggs, cheese, peanut butter or other nuts ground to a paste; meat, sliced or chopped; jelly or marmalade; dried fruit paste made of chopped dates, figs, or raisins; fish. Each sandwich should be wrapped separately in waxed paper.
Fruit: apples, grapes, oranges, peaches, pears, plums, bananas, tomatoes. Stewed fruit in small jars with tight-fitting covers may be carried safely.
Sweets: cookies, gingerbread, cake, candy.
Beverage: milk, a hot drink, or fruit juice. These may be carried in a thermos bottle or tightly covered container.

Pack a lunch neatly with the heaviest articles at the bottom. Include two napkins--one to be used as a tablecloth or lap cover."
---Girl Scout Handbook: Intermediate Program, Girl Scouts of the United States of America [New York] 1947 (p. 165-6)

[1963] Box lunches
"Chili con carne (in vacuum bottle), buttered corn-bread square (from a mix), celery sticks, olives, cherry tomatoes, packet of dried fig, milk.

"Deviled-Egg sandwich, small tomato, salt, brownie, packet of dried apricots and prunes, strawberry milk (from a mix)

Peanut-butter n' bacon sandwich, celery hearts, small box of raisins, gingerbread (from a mix, cut into fancy shapes with a cookie cutter), chocolate milk."
---McCalls Cook Book, McCalls [Random House:New York] 1963 (p. 710-1)

[1964] School Box Salad Lunch
Tuna Salad in a jar or Tuna Boats
Potato Salad
Celery Sticks
Crackers
Apple or orange
Muffin or Peanut Butter Cookies
Milk."
---Barbie's Easy-As-Pie Cookbook, Cynthia Lawrence [Random House:New York] 1964 (p. 102)

[1973] Pack-and-Carry Sandwiches
"Nine times out of ten the mainstay of a lunch box or picnic is sandwiches. So don't let yours be humdrum. Vary them from day to day with new fillings and new breads. It's an easy matter to keep hearty sandwiches on hand in the freezer.

Make it meat or poultry
Add salad dressing, in desired and seasonings to one of these meat combinations:
1. Sliced bologna, coleslaw
2. Chopped chicken or turkey, apple, and celery
3. Chopped chicken, walnuts, and olives"
---Good Housekeeping Cookbook, Dorothy B. Marsh editor [Good Housekeeping:New York] 1973 (p. 521)

WRAP IT UP!
...lunch boxes, hot-cold bottles, waxed paper & foil

19th century school lunches were generally packed in cardboard boxes (hence the term "box lunch") or lightweight tin containers. Examples of early American lunch containers may be found in 300 Years of Kitchen Collectibles, Linda Campbell Franklin, 5th edition (p. 479-482).
EBay is an excellent source for pictures of vintage American children's lunchboxes, 1940s-1980s. Search keyword: lunchbox. Paper bags debuted at the end of the 19th century.

Taking America to Lunch, Smithsonian Institution's lunch box exhibit

Waxed paper was used to wrap sandwiches and other items from the early 20th century onwards. Aluminum foil and sandwich-sized plastic bags hit the consumer markets after World War II.

Hot-cold bottles (Thermos!) Debuted at the beginning of the 20th century. According to our cookbooks, these units were quickly embraced by middle-class lunchmakers. They were also popular for picnics and other outdoor events.

[1915] The luncheon box
"The luncheon box most commonly used is of pasteboard or tin. Both these materials have advantages and disadvantages. Bread and cake are prevented from drying out when placed in a tightly covered tin box. On the other hand, food odors are retained and one pronounced odor may permeate all of the foods. But since dry bread is unpalatable, the tin box is considered more satisfactory. It should be kept clean and free from odors, should be emptied of its contents every day, washed (scalded often), and allowed to remain open all night. The collapsible box is the most convenient. For most lunches, a teaspoon, jelly glass, and in some cases a drinking cup are all the "dishes" needed. The jelly glass may serve for many purposes. Cup custard may be steamed or baked in it, or it makes an admirable mold for an individual steam pudding. Small fruits and fruit sauces may also be carried in jelly glasses.

"Packing the luncheon.--Neatness is an essential in an inviting luncheon box. All foods should be wrapped separately in paraffin paper, and placed neatly in the box. Since some foods crush readily, it is not always possible to placed the foods to be eaten first on top, but it is desirable to arrange the foods so that not all of them will have to be removed before beginning to eat the luncheon. The paper napkin should always be placed on top. It is perhaps unnessary to say that foods should not come in diret contact with newspapers or any printed matter."
---A Text-Book of Cooking, Carlotta C. Greer [Allyn and Bacon:Boston] 1915 (p. 328, 330)

[1936]
"And last, but not least, a thought to the box itself and its paper accessories. Some manufactures of vacuum bottles which we have tested and approved also make luncheon kits. They are both good-looking and well designed. With brightly colored vacuum bottles held firmly by wire clasps, with durable handles and secure locks, these kits are a joy to pack. Wax or parchement papers or sandwich bags made of transparent cellulose sheeting which we have tested and approved we know are strong and pliable and can be depended upon to keep sandwiches fresh. Approved baking cups aid in preventing the cake in the lunch box from drying and crumbling. Glass jars may be used for salads...The covered containers of water-tight cardboard, available at many stores...are lighter and can be discarded after use."
---Good Housekeeping, September 1936 (p. 163-4)

[1940]
"Packing the lunch. All food not in containers should be wrapped separately in waxed paper before being placed in the box. The neatly wrapped articles should be placed, so far as possible, in the order in which the food will be eaten, so that those found first may be eaten first without disturbing the remainder. The heaviest foods should, however, be placed at the bottom...The Lunch Box. Select a box that can be kept clean. Lunch boxes should be washed, scalded and aired daily. Those made of lightweight metal are best. Many attractive boxes are now made with a vacuum bottle which fits in the box. These are highly desirable. A lunch box should not be air-tight, as a circulation of air prevents the mingling of odors. All food should be prodected from dirt by wrapping. Accessories--A small vacuum container of cup-like shape for hot foods, a screw-top container for liquid or semi-solid food, plenty of waxed paper, and paper napkins are essential lunch box accessories. Without the hot dish--In many places the school, the Parent-Teacher Association or some woman's club provides milk and/or prepares one hot lunch at school to be sold to children for a few cents."
---American Woman's Cook Book, Ruth Berolzheimer editor and revisor [Culinary Arts Institute [Consolidated Book Publisher:Chicago:Chicago] 1940 (p. 63)

[1944]
"4. Lighten the work of packing the lunch box in busy early morning hours by doing as much as possible while clearing up dinner the night before...Wash out lunch box and vacuum bottle thoroughly every night, and air overnight...Check up and make sure you have the necessary waxed paper, paper napkins, paper containers with lids, paper "hot drink" cups, paper forks and spoons, etc., at hand ready for morning use... 17. In packing the lunch box, wrap sandwiches individually in waxed paper. Wrap raw vegetables, pickles, fruits, cake, cookies, and pies, etc., in waxed paper too. They keep better.
18. Pack salad in paper containers with lids, or in covered jelly or mayonnaise jars.
19. Desserts such as baked custard, bread pudding, and fruit gelatin may be packed in the custard dups in which they were baked or molded. Or as with such desserts as rice, tapioca or Indian pudding, covered paper containers may be used.
20. Have tiny salt and pepper cellars for the lunch box--sometimes they come made of cardboard."
---The Good Housekeeping Cook Book, completely resvised edition [Farrar & Rinehart:New York] 1944 (p. 846-7)


About these notes: Food history can be a complicated topic. These notes are not meant to be a comprehensive treatment of the subject, but a summary of salient points supported with culinary evidence. If you need more information we suggest you start by asking your librarian to help you find the books and articles cited in these notes. Article databases are good for locating current recipes, consumer trends, and new products.
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© Lynne Olver 2004
29 June 2008