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Food
Timeline> Real people or brand names? | Have questions? Ask! |
Aunt Sammy
The practice of having many
women "speak" as a unified persona was well established in the 1920s-30s. Think:
Betty Crocker and
Prudence Penny. The U.S. Government's
"Aunt Sammy" (presumably Uncle Sam's domestic partner) also published recipes and hosted short, instructive radio cooking shows. The
real "Aunt Sammy's" were often local home economists and agricultural extension agents. Did you know? Aunt Sammy's Radio
Recipes c. 1932 was the first cookbook to be published in braille.
"Aunt Sammy came to life with the first radio broadcast of "Housekeeper's Chat" on October 4,
1926. The character of Aunt Sammy--wife of Uncle Sam--was created by the USDA Bureau of
Home Economics and the Radio Service. Many women across the country played the part as they
spoke into the microphones of local radio stations. The highlights of Aunt Sammy's show were
the menus and recipes, but Aunt Sammy also talked about clothing, furniture, appliances, and
other family and household matters. Aunt Sammy wasn't just a homebody, however. She
commented on world affairs, reported the latest fads, and told jokes. The talk moved easily from
one subject to another, always natural and entertaining as well as informative. Aunt Sammy soon
became popular. By the end of the first year her program was carried by 43 radio stations. By
1932, 194 stations were broadcasting Aunt Sammy's show...Many listeners wrote for copies of
the recipes, and the Bureau of Home Economics answered these requests with weekly
mimeographed sheets. In 1927 the most popular recipes were assembled into a pamphlet..."Aunt
Sammy's Radio Recipes" was revised and enlarged three times between 1927 and 1931. In 1932
it became the first cookbook published in braille.
Aunt Sammy faded out during the Great Depression...The radio show became drier and more
factual and was renamed "Homemaker Chats." In 1946 it was discontinued."
---Selections from Aunt Sammy's Radio Recipes, U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Consumer and
Food Economics Institute, Science and Education Administration, Home and Garden Bulletin
No. 215 [U.S. Goverment:Washington DC] August 1976 (p. 1)
[This booklet is
online.]
Additional citings, courtesy of Barry Popik. Food Timeline library owns a copy of the 1931 edition, happy to share recipes.
Dinty Moore
Who was Dinty Moore? Cartoon strip character, NYC restaurateur, and meat product brand name. In that order.
"Q. When I was a kid I loved Dinty Moore beef stew. Recently I learned that Dinty Moore's was for many years a popular New York
restaurant. Who was Dinty Moore, and was he, in fact, the man behind the stew?
A. In 1913, George McManus, a cartoonist for The New York American, created a comic strip called 'Bringing Up Father,' which satirized the
struggles of Jiggs and Maggie, a working-class Irish couple thrust by sudden wealth into the world of New York's pampered elite.
Jiggs, who longs for his pervious life, returns often to the tavern owned by his old pal, Dinty Moore. 'Bringing Up Father' was an
instant and enduring hit. It became a daily feature in 1916. George McManus sometimes visited James Moore's Irish-style restaurant at
216 West 46th Street. Convinced that he was the inspiration for the Dinty Moore of comic strip fame, Mr. Moore took the name for his
restaurant, which became a popular Midtown hangout for sports heroes, celebrities and swells. Corned beef and cabbage was a specialty, of course.
So was Irish Stew. Other Dinty Moore's were opened in cities across the country. In the 1930's, a meat retailer in Minneapolis
registered the Dinty Moore name and sold a cured meat product called Dinty Moore Picnics. Hormel Foods bought the name an marketed
its own steamed-beef-and-gravy product, at 15 cents a can, starting in 1935. The stew was renowned for its long shelf life. Later Hormel
introduced a shortlived Dinty Moore character, a cartoon lumberjack, to help sell the product, which remains popular. The restaurant
on 46th Street, with its polished brass and mahogany bar, was considered a virtual landmark when it closed in the early 1970s."
---"Stew From the Funnies," Daniel B. Schneider, New York Times, October 14, 2001 (p. CY2)
Dinty Moore, comic strip character
Dinty Moore, a popular Irish saloon keeper & fabulous cook, was created by George McManus in his strip "Bringing Up Father. Most sources state he based this character on James Moore, a real person who ran popular Irish restaurant in New York City. McManus was a regular custormer of Moore's. Bringing Up Father debuted in Hearst newspapers January 12, 1913. Moore's restaurant opened in 1914. We have not yet identified the exact date the Dinty Moore character first appeared in the comic strip. The connection appears to be solid.
[1913]
"When George McManus created Brining Up Father for the Hearst organization, he was already a cartoonist of high repute. Bringing Up Father, which first appeared in the dailies in
1913, was only one of a number of strip ideas that McManus had played around with. It was sometimes missing for weeks at a time, and only in 1916 did it become
definitively established (wth the Sunday version following on April 14, 1918)...Inspired by William Gill's 1893 play The Rising Generation (which McManus saw as a
child), the strip...resembles a skit or playlet, loaded with witty dialogue, nutty characters and outlandish happenings. The underlying theme of the strip is quite simple...Jiggs,
a former mason, and hiw wife Maggie, an ex-washerwoman, have suddenly become wealthy by winning the Irish sweepstakes. But while Maggie, the epitome of ugliness,
snobbishness, and egotism, seeks to forget her social origins, Jiggs' only wish is to meet his buddies at Dinty Moore's tavern for a dish of corned beef and cabbage and a
friendly game of pineochle...Bringing up Father was one of the very few comic strips in which all strata of society are represented in an astounding gallery of portraits ranging all the way from the
upper crust to the lower depths...Bringing Up Father was the first comic strip to enjoy worldwide fame...In the 1920s a stage play, Father, toured the United States and Canada, and
McManus himself appeared as Jiggs in some of the productions."
---"Bringing Up Father," The World Encyclopedia of Comics, Maurice Horne, editor [Chelsea House Publishers:Philadelphia PA] 1999 (p. 154-155)
Good news! the original recipes for Dinty Moore's singature dishes
Corned Beef and Cabbage &
[1920]
"The Federal agents declared [Roland] Hunt sold them two highballs in Moore's cafe and restaurant, 216 West Forty-sixth Street."
---"Tells of $2 'nip' at Jacks," New York Times, April 19, 1920 (p. 26)
[1922]
"Five detectives under the driection of Inspector James Bolan, just at the beginning of the dinner hour last night, raided 'Dinty'
Moore's restaurant, at 216 West Forty-sixth Street, two doors from Broadway, where they seized alleged intoxicants valued at
$10,000 and made two arrests. The news that Moore's, a popular theatrical rendezvous, was receiving a visit form the police rapidly spread along the
Rialto, and before detectives had completed their work a dense crowd gathered. It was necessary to call the reserves from the
West Forty-seventh Street Station to clear the street. The search warrant for the raid was issued by Supreme Court Justice McAvoy.
Detective Thomas Sheehan alleged that he purchased a pint of 'Canadian ale' from Charles Cusacke, a waiter, which upon
examination he found to be whisky. As the warrant included the five stories of the building housing the restaurant, the detectives made a
thorough search of the premise. The first and second floors were filled with diners when the police entered and there was consternation and a
rapid movement among many, according to the police, to get rid of liquids. The alleged liquors were found on the fourth floor above the living
quarters of James Moore, the proprietor. Moore told the police that the goods siezed had been purchased before the Volstead act went into
effect. Moore and Cusacko were arrested and released in $500 bail each on the charge of violating the Mullan-Gage Act. The alleged
liquor was carried to the West Forty-seventh Street Station, four trips being necessary. The police said the seizure included eighteen cases of
Black and White whisky, 200 bottles of wine and 200 bottles of champagne."
---"'Dinty' Moore Raid Crowds Broadway; Reserves Called to Clear Street When Sleuths Scatter Diners in Popular Resort," New
York Times, November 29, 1922 (p. 7)
[1928]
"William J. Moore, known as 'Dinty' Moore, his brother, James Moore Jr., and nine others arrested early on New Year's Day at 216-220 West
Forty-sixth Street on charges of violating the Volstead act, were released under bail ranging from $1,000 for 'Dinty' to $500 for each of the ten
others yesterday for a further hearing on Jan. 24....The affidavit charged that when Spahr [an Internal Revenue officer] and others went to
Moore's establishment without a search warrant, under an agreement with 'Dinty' oin a padlock court several months ago, they found and
confiscated the following: Forty-six pints of ale, 64 1/2 pints of rye, 31 1/2 quarts of rye, 6 1/2 pints of Scotch, 2 quarts of brandy, 1 quart of
kummel, 2 quarts of other cordials, 2 quarts of gin, 6 quarts of vermuth, 2 bottles of stout and 3 quarts and 3 pints of champagne. When Moore
was arrested on a charge of violating the Volstead act several months ago he protested his innocence. He escaped a padlock, but was required to
sign a written agreement making it possible for Federal officers to search his place without a warrant, and to post a bond which may now be
forfeited."
---"'Dinty' Moore Out On Bail After Raid...168 Bottles In His Place," New York Times, January 4, 1928 (p. 12)
[1945]
"James (Dinty) Moore, 77-year-old owner of the Dinty Moore restaurant at 216 West Forty-sixth Street, patronized for many reasons by many of
the city's notables...was fined $5,000 yesterday by Magistrate Charles E. Ramsgate in the War Emergency Court for 272 violations of the Office of
Price Administration regulations on ceiling prices for his meals. The magistrate could have added a straight jail sentence, but refrained, he said,
because of the restaurateur's age...Moore, in defense of his overceiling charges to his patrons, had explained he had never reduced the size of the
portions he served and insisted that it would be impossible for him to comply wtih the OPA regulations because his expenses, including wages, had
mounted sharply since the price ceilings were put into effect."
---"Dinty Moore Fined $5,000 in OPA Case; Jail Term Is Omitted Because He Is 77," New York Times, November 17, 1945 (p. 19)
[1952]
"James A. Moore, 83, New York restaurateur, died today. He was the owner of Dinty Moore's a well known restaurant in the Broadway theater district.
Moor opened his establishment 38 years ago. He was a close friend of George McManus, the cartoonist, who dubbed the restaurant owner Dinty. McManus later gave the
name Dinty Moore to one of the characters in his comic strip. And Moore, himself, then gave the name to his restaurant."
---"'Dinty Moore,' Restaurateur of Comics, Dead," Chicago Daily Tribune, December 26, 1952 (p. B4)
[1964]
"Dinty Moore's, to comic strip followers, is the restaurant where Jiggs is always sneaking off for a corned beef and cabbage when Maggie's nagging
gets too much for him. In real life, Dinty Moore's is the restaurant in the heart of Broadway where the big names from the theater, film, publishing,
broadcasting and sporting fraternities repair to wheel and deal and eat corned beef and cabbage. Little has changed in the restaurant at 216 West
46th Street since James Moore opened its doors on March 7, 1914--and this perhaps explains much of its magnetism. The polished brass at the
bar, the gold-plated faucets in the men's room downstairs and the eye-level mirrors that circle the room give the place a turn-of-the-century air...
Mr. Moore, who died in the restaurant on Christmas Day in 1952, took the name Dinty from the comic strip, 'Bringing Up Father,' which was created
by his long-time friend and customer, George McManus. Since Mr. Moore's death, the business has been run by his daughter Anna. Soon after she
took over, she had the sign outside changed from 'Dinty Moore's' to just 'Moore's,' reportedly because of long-standing differences with her father.
The name on the menu has also been changed, but the green and white matchbooks still bear the original name. Many of the regular patrons have
their own special tables and waiters, and they will accept none other...The status section of Dinty Moore's is on the left as you walk in, just
beyond the bar. In the old days, prominent judges and politicians, such as James A. Farliey, used to be frequent visitors....the employee recalled
numerous baseball celebrities who used to drop in and still do--Eddie Brannick, Mel Allen and Joe DiMaggio. 'We would get a lot of them around
World Series time, even umpires,'...Among the restaurant's attractions are its open kitchen, its roomy tables...and its reputation for simple, good
food. The kitchen is still known for the corned beef and Irish stew that James Moore started with, but the menu us now sophisticated and a good
deal more expensive ($7 for a sirloin steak, 75 cents for an order of green peas)."
---"Dinty Moore's Reflects Opulence of a Bygone Era," Sydney H. Schanger, New York Times, June 4, 1964 (p. 44)
[1970]
"Dinty Moore's Seafood House, 216 West 46th Street, 765-8215. Over the years there have been a few restaurants that should be declared national monuments, and among them I would have
named P.J. Clarke's, which happily goes on forever, McSorley's Saloon of recent front-page fame and Dinty Moore's. Well, Dinty Moore's is still with us, at least in name and
location, but it is not the restaurant I had in mind. The restaurant I had in mind was the splendid, immaculate, warm, friendly, old-fashioned place with mirrors everywhere and black
and white decor. The Moore family sold it some months ago to some Broadway people, and now the decor is decidedly showbiz and on the common side...The mirrors have been
replaced with red plush, and the walls are outfitted with nautical etchings, ship models, sheet music of yesteryear and all of that jazz. Before it changed hands Dinty Moore's had fresh,
good rye on the table, and a first-rate bean soup, and a simple, chopped sweet and sour cabbage salad and among other good things, an excellent deep-fried sea bass
(even when it came out over cooked, it was good) with stewed tomatoes...The new Dinty Moore's corned beef was edible if overcooked and served on overcooked cabbage."
---"Oh, for the Old Dinty Moore's," Craig Claiborne, New York Times, October 30, 1970 (p. 36)
Dinty Moore's original Corned beef & cabbage recipe
This recipe's headnote "certifies" authenticity. The cookbook author was a celebrity in his own right. It is quite possible the recipe came straight from Dinty Moore's kitchen.
"Corned Beef is pickled in brine and requires a lot of boiling (simmering from 3 to 6 hours). It is usually served with boiled cabbage and its natural condiment is mustard; it needs no other. Dinty Moore's Corn Beef and Cabbage. Contributed by James Moore, 216 West 46th Street, New York City, through courtesy of Charles Gillen, Commissioner, Newark, N.J. Place well selected properly cured corned beef in cold water, bring to a boil and boil for 3 1/2 hours, skimming every 20 minutes. Add fresh boiling water if necessary to keep beef covered. Fifteen minutes before it is finished add 1 lb. of granulated sugar for every 20 lbs. of beef. Allow beef to cool in water in which it was boiled, for 1 1/2 hour. Put cabbage in cold water with piece of pork and boil from 18 to 20 minutes. Remove pot from the fire and heat up when wanted. (Will keep white for 24 hours.) With this corned beef and cabbage, which so often made Father leave home, Dinty always served potatoes, which he cooked as follows: Wash good-sized Irish potatoes but do not remove the skins. Boil in very highly salted water (brine) until 'hard boiled'--25-35 minutes. Keep skins intact and dry potatoes in oven for 20 minutes or so. Serve with plenty of butter..."
--The Gun Club Cook Book, Charles Bowne, revised edition [Charles Scribner's Sons:New York] 1934 (p. 183-184)
Dinty Moore's Irish Stew recipe
The recipe below was shared by George Rector, chef of the famous Rector's restaurant in New York City. Both Rector and Moore were popular restaurateurs. It is very possible they shared recipes as well as clientele.
"This is what Jim 'Dinty' Moore did when I frist smelled the Irish stew steaming out of his kitchen. It's the same Dinty Moore, by the way, who was immortalized by George McManus, whose corned beef and cabbage Jiggs was sure to be eating when he could get away from Maggie. And Dinty has one corking fine restaurant in New York where you'll find a lot of other fine people besides Jigs. But I'll let you judge for yourself. Here's the stew. You'll need: 1 pound chuck of beefLalla Rookh
3 pounds shoulder of lamb
1 pound breast of lamb
4 medium sized potatoes
6 medium sized carrots
2 medium sized green peppers, diced
1/4 cup leeks
1/2 cup diced celery
1 cup canned tomato pulp
1 teaspoon prepared mustard
1 tablespoon Wocestershire sauce
1 tablespoon A-1 sauce
1 tablespoon ketchup
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup cooked green peas
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
Cut all the meat in pieces two inches square, taking off all the fat you can. Start the beef to cook in just enough water to cover, then simmer one hour. Simmer the lamb in enough water to cover for thirty minutes; from time to time skim the fat off the top. Combine carrots--cut in quarters--green peppers, onions, leeks and celery. Simmer for another half hour. Put the seasonings with the tomato pulp, add this to the stew, and continue the cooking for ten minutes longer. Serve with garnish of green peas and parsley. This is Irish stew a la Dinty Moore--and it's undoubtedly the best Irish stew Chef Robin Hood Rector ever went a snooping for."
---"The Chef from Rectors with a Savory Dish," George Rector, Chicago Defender, December 27, 1936 (p.D3)
General summary
"Lalla Rookh. A nineteenth-century dessert made with eggs, spirits, and whipped cream, although there are many variations. A
1910 cookbook by San Francisco chef Victor Hirtzler of the Hotel St. Francis listed Lalla Rookh was nothing more than a creme de menthe cordial
poured over ice in a sherbet glass to be served as a digestive between courses. The name comes from a long poem about a
beautiful princess of India, Lalla Rookh (1817), by Thomas Moore. The poem, praised for its 'barbaric splendors' and exotic
details, was a great success in both England and America, and this rich dessert was named after the poem's heroine."
---Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999(p. 180)
Who was Lalla Rookh?
"Lalla Rookh (fl. 1600s). Indian princess. Lalla Rookh means Tulip Cheek; flourished the 1600s; supposed daughter of Aurangzeb (1618-1707), Mughul emperor (r. 1658-1707). Lalla Rookh was the supposed daughter of Aurangzeb, the last great Mugul emperor of India, who had nine children with his harem of four wives...As presented in the 1817 poem Lalla Rookh by Thomas Moore, Lalla Rookh was betrothed to Aliris, sultan of lesser Bulcharia. On her journey from Delhi to Cashmere, she was entertained by Feramorz, a young Persian poet, with whom she fell in love. Lalla Rookh was delighted when she learned that the young poet was the sultan to whom she was betrothed."
---Women in World History: A Biographical Encyclopedia, Anne Commire, editor, Volume 9 [Yorkin Publications:Detroit] 2001 (p. 59)
Lalla Rookh: the literary character
Thomas More's 1817 publication is online; (includes drawing of Lalla Rookh).
Lalla Rookh: the recipes
[1909]
"Lalla Rookh. This dessert is of Spanish origin and is extremely palatable. Select a plain mold with a tight fitting cover. Cut in small pieces six ladyfingers, twelve almonds, and a half a cupful of raisins; stir all together and put into the mold. Make a custard with a quart of milk, one small cupful of sugar, and flour eggs, and as the custard is removed from the fire reserve a large cupful and to the remainder add a small quarter of a cupful of gelatine with has previously been soaked in enough water to cover. Stir the custard well, strain it over the mixture in the mold, and set the whole away in a cold place, where it will settle for four hours. Now add the to the remaining custard one cupful of whipped cream; flavor with vanilla extract. When the dessert is needed turn it out on a pretty serving dish, sprinkle top with finely chopped bananas and strawberries cut into slices. Pour the custard around it. Delicious as well as ornamental. Mrs. F. Behrens, Aberdeen, S.D."
---"A Page for Practical Housekeepers," Chicago Daily Tribune, August 15, 1909 (p. Fe)[1919]
"Lalla Rookh. To a quart of vanilla ice cream add a pony of Jamaica rum, and mix well. Serve flat in glasses with a little rum on top."
---Hotel St. Francis Cook Book, Victor Hirtzler [Hotel Monthly Press:Chicago IL] 1919 (p. 10)
[NOTES: (1) Sample hotel menu groups Lalla Rookh with "Ice Creams and Ices," cost: 30 cents. (p. 397). (2) A "pony" equals one ounce.][1925]
"Lallah Rookh. Cut some French cherries, apricots and angelique and pour over it some Madeira and stand in hot place. Then make a mixture of French vanilla and freeze, leaving one cup of the liquid behind; when frozen hard enough, add the fruit and some broken ladyfingers and finely crushed macaroons. Then let it stand and when firm fill in molds, imbedding them in broken ice and salt for fully one hour. Next dissolve some gelatin in a little warm milk or water and add it to the remaining custard. When wanted for use, turn the pudding on the dish upon which it is to be served and sprinkle a little chopped fruit over it, then add some whipped cream and the previously prepared custard, flavored with Madeira."
---The Dispenser's Formulary, Soda Fountain Magazine, 4th edition [Soda Fountain Publications:New York] 1925 (p. 178)[1934]
"And what is a Lalla Rookh, you ask? A fascinating dessert made very easily. Fill chilled sherbet glasses with French or Vanilla ice cream; level top off, scoop out a little depression in the center and fill with rum. Send at once to the table."
---"Noted Chef Gives Recipe for Novel Crab Au Madeira," Marian Manners, Los Angeles Times, December 29, 1934 (p. A5)
Because these products were so popular, generic references to "Mary Ann" bases (cake pans) and measures (cups/spoons) can also be found in advertisements/literature distrubuted by competing manufacturers. "Mary Ann" cakes, round sponge with top indentation to hold sweet filling, are still popular. We see them, in both personal and family sizes, paired with strawberries in our supermarkets during the "shortcake" season. Most of us today are unaware of the original name.
In 1944, Katzinger changed its name to EKCO Products (New York Times advertisement, July 6, 1944, p. 21). EKCO is now owned by World Kitchens Inc. We don't find references to Mary Ann products in EKCO's web site but a google search confirms you can still buy Mary Ann (aka Marianne) pans online.
Why the name?
To date, we have not found any explanation regarding the name of this product. Possibly, it
was named for a family member. This is a common practice in the food world.
Mary Ann Measuring cups
The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office contains this record for Mary
Ann's measuring cups. The date of introduction is September 1, 1921. The company name is not
provided. This registration was renewed in 1968 but is now dead.
Word Mark MARY ANN'S Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 009. US 026. G & S:
DOMESTIC MEASURING CUPS. FIRST USE: 19210901. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE:
19210901 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED
FORM Serial Number 71264570 Filing Date April 9, 1928 Registration Number 0245021
Registration Date August 7, 1928
There are two references to Mary Ann measuring cups listed in 300 Years of Kitchen
Collectibles, Linda Franklin, 4th edition [Krause Publications:Wisconsin] 1997 (p. 330-331):
"Liquid or Dry measures, set of 4 graduated cups with thumb tab handles, stamped tin,
"Maryann's Accurate Measure," Chicago, IL, 1/4 cup to 1 cup, 20th C. For the set $15-20.
"Measuring cups, small tin flared side cups with tab handles, set of 4, "Mary Ann's Accurate
Measure," mfd. By Katzinger Co., Chicago, measure 1/4 cup, 1/2 C, 1/3 C, and 1 C., c. 1930s-40s? $12-$15"
Mary Ann cake pans
According to the records of the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, Mary Ann's brand cake
pans were introduced to the American public September 1, 1921. Some cookbooks promoted Mary Ann products. "Mary Ann" was also sometimes incorporated into the name of the recipe.
"Mary Ann" cakes were typically dainty sponge presentations.
[1921]
Word Mark MARY ANN'S Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 021. US 013. G & S: BASE-METAL PIE PANS AND CAKE PANS. FIRST USE: 19210901. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE:
19210901 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED
FORM Design Search Code Serial Number 71262310 Filing Date February 27, 1928 Current
Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0245277 Registration Date
August 7, 1928 Owner Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Type of Mark
TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL Renewal 2ND RENEWAL 19680807 Live/Dead
Indicator DEAD
[1930]
"Mary Ann Cake Pan.
This pan gives a cake with sides about 1 1/2 inches high and an opening in the center 7 inches in
diameter, or 8 inches square. Individual Mary Ann pans are 3 inches across and 1 1/4 inches
deep, and are square or round. The center of the pan must be covered with greased paper and the
inside spread with 1 tablespoon lard mixed with 1 tablespoon flour before cake mixture is put
in....How to Fill and Frost Mary Ann Cakes. After baking, the sides and top edge may be spread
with confectoners frosting, or sprinkled with powdered sugar. The center may be filled with any
gelatine dessert containing cream...or any filling."
---Desserts Including Layer Cakes and Pies, Alice Bradley [M. Barrows & Company:Boston]
1930 (p. 190-1)
"Orange Mary Ann.
Bake Sponge Cake...in Mary Ann Cake Pan. Just before serving cover top and sides of cake with
a think coating of Orange Cream Filling...and sprinkle with Pistachio nuts, chopped. Fill center
with Orange Cream Filling and garnish with sections of Orange, free from membrane, and nut
meats."
---ibid. (p. 206)
[1981]
"To our minds, one of the most interesting and curiously named pastries bears the name Mary Ann. Although we have been asked many
times over the years, we have never been able to pinpoint the origin of this dessert's name, and we would give much to know.
Mary Ann cakes, as they are sometimes called, come in two sizes: large, and small or 'miniature.' Basically, a Mary Ann is
spongecake that is round like as standard cake, but has a shallow, uniform depression in the cetner. (Mary Ann pans, essential for
creating this shape, can be purchased in fine kitchenware shops across of the country.) The reason for the depression is to receive an
assortment of garnishes--such as seweetend, cut fruits or berries, custard or whipped cream and, quite often, a combination of such
good things. The design of Mary Anns, the small or 'miniature' versions in particular, makes them ideal for such desserts as
strawberry and other 'shortcakes' as well as for baked Alaskas. We offer here our version of Mary Ann spongecake, plus two
of these variation.
"Mary Ann Spongecakes
1 cup sifted confectioners' sugar
2/3 cup sifted cornstarch
3 eggs, separated
1/8 teaspoon creamof tartar
2 tablespoons water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Sift together one-half cup of the sugar and the cornstarch three times. Set aside.
3. Beat the egg whites, cream of tartar and water in a large bowl with a rotary beater or electric mixer until the mixture
stands in soft peaks. Gradually beat in the remaining one-half cup of sugar, a little at a time, continuing to beat until stiff
peaks form when the beater is raised. Add the egg yolks and vanilla; beat only until well blended.
4. Fold in the sugar-cornstarch mixture, a little at a time, until it is all added and well blended.
5. Pour the batter into nine lightly buttered, individual Mary Ann tins (the capacity of each tin is about three-quarters cup).
Or pour the batter into two ungreased eigth-inch cake pans. Bake until the cake rebounds to the touch when pressed lightly in the center.
For Mary Ann pans, the baking time is about 15 minutes; for the cake pans, about 30 minutes. Place on whire racks and
cool. Cut around the edges of the cakes before removing them from the pans.
Yield: Nine Mary Ann cakes or two eight-inch layers.
Note: Leftover Mary Ann cakes freeze very well. You can make these in batches and use them anytime."
---"Food: A Deliciously Depressed Cake," Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey, New York Times, January 18, 1981 (p. SM13)
Mr. Potato Head
According to the records of the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office, Mr. Potato Head was introduced to the
American public by Hassenfeld Bros. [RI] January 1, 1952. The original toy was a set of plastic body parts. BYOP (bring your own potato).
"MR. POTATO HEAD Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 028. US 022. G & S: EDUCATIONAL TOY KITS CONTAINING A PLASTIC TOY
FIGURE WITH REMOVABLE HEAD, AND DETACHABLE PLASTIC BODY PARTS FOR AFFIXING ON A FRESH POTATO OR OTHER FRESH
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES TO FORM VARIOUS HUMAN CARICATURES. FIRST USE: 19520101. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19520301
...Owner (REGISTRANT) HASSENFELD BROS. INC. CORPORATION RHODE ISLAND 1033 BROAD ST. CENTRAL FALLS RHODE ISLAND
(LAST LISTED OWNER) HASBRO, INC. CORPORATION BY MERGER WITH RHODE ISLAND 1027 NEWPORT AVENUE PAWTUCKET
RHODE ISLAND 02862."
Early ads describe this innovative plaything. While the toy was originally marketed for a potato, the ads state "Any fruit or vegetables makes a very funny face!" Depictions of pears, beets, apples, oranges appear;. The original price? 98 cents.
"Meet Mr. Potato Head. The new TV star! And the most fascinating toy in the world!. Here it is...Mr. Potato Head the most wonderful little friend a boy or girl ever
had. making funny faces with this toy is a joy. And it's all so very, very simple. Just stic a real, live potato on his beautiful bpalstic body, then select a set of eyes, a nose
a pair or lips, mustache, ears, hat ant there you are! You get several sets of each plus pipes and other accessories, so that you can actually make thousands of different funny,
funny faces. You don't have to use a potato only, you can use nearly every kind of vegetable or fruit."
---display ad, Chicago Daily Tribune, October 1, 1952 (p. A5)
Mrs. Winslow
Mrs. Winslow's Domestic Receipt Book
What makes this cookbook most interesting is that it was published as a drug company promotion. Ads for "Mrs. Winslows Soothing Syrup and other patent medicines are prominently featured throughout the publication. Mrs. Winslows medication was promoted for quieting teething children and a raft of discomfiting ailments. The recipes in this book are short and common. Presumably, they were included as an enticement to female customers who were the primary market for the medicine. Other patent medicines were also advertised. Published annually in pamphlet form 18601878 (?). Sold in drug stores & pharmacies.
The 1874 edition (linke above, p. 7) endeavors to answer the question: Who is Mrs. Winslow? Details are sketchy. We are told she is a lady with 30 years of experience and possibly some medical training (nurse, physician). We find no print evidence supporting Mrs. Winslow was a real person. This is not unusual. Think: Betty Crocker.
The earliest print reference we find for Mrs. Winslows Soothing Syrup was a newspaper ad published in 1853:
"An Old and Experienced Nurse offers her aid to mothers--Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup, for children teething, will give immediate relief in every case. Ladies are constatnly saying
it operates like magic, never fails to cure the Dysentery and Diarrhoea in children. Depend upon it, mothers, if will give rest to yourselves and comfort and health to your children."
---classified ad, New York Daily Times, January 1, 1853 (p. 6)
The last references are from 1912, when the drug, alonng with many popular "patent medicines" was banned by the newly formed Food and Drug Administration. Articles from the 1990s detailing the history of drug use in the United States confirm Mrs. Winslow soothing agent was morphine/opium. This was a common painkiller during the Civil War and the 2nd half of the 19th century.
Who was Prudence Penny?
A persona created by William Randolph Hearst Sr. shortly after WWI to byline his newspaper's food columns. Dozens of writers, both
male and female, labored under this popular pseudonym. Columns were published in local newspapers throughout the country.
"Prudence Penny" also hosted a radio show and authored a popular cook book.
[1960s]
Hyman Goldberg
"Hyman Goldberg, reporter, magazine writer and author of cook books died today...Known for us humorous style, Mr.
Goldberg laced two cook books, 'Man in the Kitchen,' and 'The Beginners' Cook Book' with amusing anecdotes. He also made a number of
guest appearances on television programs with cooking displys and comments. But, as a man who enjoyed cooking--and sampling his
own handiwork--he frequently had to go on diets. Cooking had been close to him since boyhood, when he helped his father in a Bronx
restaurant. At the age of 16...he decided to desert the restaurant and became a copy boy on the old New York Sun. He also worked
in New York on The Post, and the defunct papers as PM, The Journal-American and The Mirror. On the Journal-American, as
'Prudence Penny,' he did a cooking column....In 1963 when Mr. Goldberg, a somewhat portly man with a bass voice took over the cooking
column on The Mirror, he felt obliged to laugh whenever some waggish friend hailed him with cries of 'Hello there, Prudence.'
'My Friends,' he wrote in a Saturday Evening Post article, 'are convulsed by the thought that perhaps a million or more people
must think of me each day as a little old lady, presumably a dear old one, while they know for 39 years I have been a cigar-smoking
newspaperman working as a New York police reporter covering fires, murders, gang wars, and from time to time interviewing stars of
the stage, screen and TV. His cooking columns, currently in The Post, were what might be termed fun columns, starting with a joke or
amusing andecdote and continuing in blythe spirit. His Prudence Penny recipe for making rum pie with zweiback crust was certainly
in the vein of Graham Kerr, the Galloping Gourmet of television. 'Break up zweiback,' Prudence commanded conventionally. The next
step, however, was: 'Keep rum bottle handy; if smashing up zweiback exhausts you, take a swig of rum and resume zweiback breaking
when strength returns.' Another column gave a recipe for baked apples that wound up; 'Keep basting the apples until they are
glazed. If you'd like to get a little glazed yourself, pour a shot of rum or brandy into the apple before serving.' For 18
years before becoming Prudence Penny, Mr. Goldberg was a feature writer for the Sunday Mirror Magazine, specializing as a girl-watcher,
interviewing starlets, show girls and actresses...A collection of his works, dealing mainly with starlets and other young
women admired for their beauty, became a book called 'How I Became a Girl Reporter.' Among the other magazines for which
Mr. Goldberg wrote were The New Yorker, McCall's, and Cosmopolitan. During World War II he was on staff of Yank magazine."
---"Hyman Goldberg, Writer, Dies; 'Prudence Penny' of Food Pages," New York Times, September 20, 1970 (p. 87)
[NOTE: Mr. Goldberg shared his personal experiences "Prudence Penny: The Lady Columnist
Who Wasn't," Hyman Goldberg, Saturday Evening Post, December 7, 1963 (p. 40-46)]
A. Taride refers to Paris publisher Alphonse Taride, est. 1852:
Food Timeline library owns Tante Marie's French Kitchen [1949] and The Compete Tante Marie's French Kitchens [1962], both translated and adapted by Charlotte Turgeon and published by Oxford University Press:New York. In the Englished version Tante Marie is "quoted" in selected chapter head notes. One such note:
"It is good for the lady of the household to know how to make good pastry--or, eat least, to be able to teach others how to make it. In France, the privilege of making tarts and cakes is reserved for the young ladies of the household. These young ladies are well aware of the good effect it makes when it is announced that the beautiful cake on the table has been prepared for them. It indicates an interest in domestic life."--Tante Marie"
---Tante Marie's French Kitchen (p. 236)
Harvey Wallbanger?
Harvey Wallbanger cocktails burst on the American scene in 1968. The general locus of origin is southern
California. Harvey personnified the newly emerging youth drinking market. The Harvey Wallbanger
cake surfaced in 1973.
The "classic" legend:
"An apocryphal tale surrounds the origins of the name of this well-known cocktail. Harvey was the name of a surfer who wiped out
wildly in surf championship and then soothed his wounded ego by drinking too much vodka and Galliano at Pancho's Bar, Manhattan Beach,
California. At which point he banged his head against the wall...This was in the 1960s when Smirnoff was in the midst of creating a
young market for vodka in the USA, so whether it is a true tale or an urban myth--who knows?"
---Classic Cocktails, Salvatore Calabrese [Sterling Publishing Co.:New York] 1997 (p. 120)
"'A Harvey Wallbanger...consists of two shots of vodka, one shot of Galliano (an Italian liqueur) ice and orange juice. As to its
origin, there was supposed to be a guy in Laguna Beach who ran out of everything at a party except vodka, Galliano and orange juice.
When everybody left, Harvey was banging his head against the wall.'"
---"Ninety Chili Aficionados Chow Down," Los Angeles Times, August 22, 1968 (p. I14)
"The Yodeler, Home of the Original Harvey Wallbanger."
---display ad, The Yodeler Restaurant, Mammoth Mountain Ski Rsport, Mammoth Lakes, California, Los Angeles Times,
March 2, 1971 (p. I23)
"Special promotions help some alcoholic beverages. Having created the Harvey Wallbanger drink (orange juice, vodka, Galliano)
over a year ago, McKesson Liquor Co. keeps plugging it with gimmicks such as Harvey Wallbanger T-shirts. As a result, McKesson says
Galliano liqueur sales are up 40% this year."
---"Business Briefs: A Special Background Report on Trends in Industry and Finance," Wall Street Journal, December
23, 1971 (p. 1)
"In real life, a Harvey Wallbanger is a cocktail. In legend, a Harvey Wallbanger is any person who has mastered the noble art of
the foul up."
---"Goof of the Year," John Hall, Los Angles Times, August 1, 1972 (p. F3)
"The Harvey Wallbanger trophy is up for grabs. More precisely, it is the Harvey Wallbanger Sports Goof Trophy, already the favorite is
obvious. Vice Presisdent Agnew is one of six nominees for the award. Indeed, the very first Harvey Wallbanger award will probably be his
after the ballot from...Sports Illustated...In Agnew's cakse, however, the Harvey Wallbanger ballot does not make clear which of his
fauz pas qualifies him. He has been nominated on a number of them, which makes him such a strong candidate."
---"On Today's Scene: It's Not Easy to Vote Against Agnew," William Gildea, Washington Post, Times Herald, April 3,
1971 (p. C1)
[NOTE: "Goof of the Year," John Hall, Los Angeles Times, August 1, 1972 (p. F3)confirms Mr. Agnew won the 1971 "award."]
"In the early 1970s, the makers of Galliano liquer decided to promote their product by suggesting it be mixed with vodka and orange
juice to make a new drink: The Harvey Wallbanger. As a part of the advertising campaign the company created a fictional surfer by the
same name. Today, reputable cocktail books duly note that the drink was named after a Californian named Harvey who tended to bang into
walls after having had a few too many."
---"Through a Glass, Darkly," William Grimes New York Times, August 25, 1991 (p. SM14)
About culinary research & about copyright
Research conducted by Lynne
Olver, editor The Food
Timeline. About this site.